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Post date: Jul 20, 2015 12:56:52 AM
Quebec City is a delight, full of really lovely people and a French-Canadian warmth. However, I can't adequately describe charm, so this will be more factual than philosophical.
We arrived at our apartment in the lower level of Quebec City on June 13th and left on the 21st. The apartment is on the 2nd floor of a very old building, so we had to negotiate a very narrow flight of stairs every day.
The apartment is very roomy, with high ceilings, a dining area and a kitchen, a laundry, a living room and a big sunny bedroom overlooking the street. It is across the street from a parking lot where we were able to leave the car for the entire stay ($18/day). Just across another street is a wonderful marketplace, with all manner of fruits, breads, flowers, wines, cheeses and much more.
We were able to get freshly baked baguettes and raisin bread there, great quiche lorraine, wickedly delicious macarons, excellent cheeses and I was even able to sample wines and ports made from various fruits in Quebec and New Brunswick provinces. There were also pots of flowers and displays of fresh fish. We visited the market almost every day.
The city is divided into upper and lower levels. The lower level is a charming mix of narrow streets, interesting shops and cafes and open air artworks, all laid out perfectly for easy strolling. Not to be missed is a fresco on the side of a building, near the Place Royale, that depicts various historic Quebecois, both fictional and real. It is done in a trompe l'oeil style, so that you think you're seeing everything in three dimensions. It has to be seen to be believed. And what's really amazing is that we found yet another fresco, equally amazing, a few blocks away!
The cuisine here is predominately French - cassoulet, rillettes, pate, coq au vin, croque monsieur, and all delicious. Wine selections are mainly from California - this is not an area suited to viticulture, although they do make terrific fruit wines.
On the upper level is the magnificent Chateau Frontenac, a hotel that dominates the whole city.
You can walk along a huge boardwalk in front of the hotel and look out over the Saint Lawrence river and the lower city. We took a carriage ride there and saw the remnants of the old fortifications, their beautiful parks and streets lined with restaurants. We sat in a sunny courtyard and listened to a guitarist who was good but annoying (he played mostly Paul Simon and Neil Young tunes). I had a beef fondue there and Mary-jo had fish.
With its charming citizens and intriguing sights, Quebec is a first class destination city. We did find dining out to be rather expensive, usually $40-$50 for a simple meal with no wine. The weather was perfect. I can't imagine what it's like to be there in the wintertime.
I am delighted that we got to visit such a magical place.
(for more photos, see Photo Gallery (7) )
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