Zutphen is one of the nine Hanseatic cities that work together. I have 16 highlights of Zutphen to share. Most of these are part of a walk or hike, or involve moving around within the building. Only in two of these, the public library and the archive, visitors don't have to move around if they don't want to.
Zutphen is one of the five Hanseatic Cities with a train station. I conducted fieldwork for IPSOS I&O at stations in these five cities. The stations in these cities are all places where I enjoyed conducting fieldwork. The stations are spacious, and most have roofs, except for the station in Kampen where I conducted fieldwork. Zutphen's station is old, but located close to the city center. On the other side the newer part of the city with its harbor is located.
The new part of Zutphen is situated on the other side of the station, Noorderhaven. The new neighborhood looks attractive, with houses surrounded by greenery. There is also an harbor with several restaurants and a bakery. The beauty is that several old buildings have been preserved and got a new destination. This part of town has become a friendly looking, walkable part of Zutphen.
There are a few bakeries in Zutphen, but I will mention just one because it has a social story to tell. The social story of this bakery can be read on their website. There are two branches, one in the center of the city and the other one in the new part of town. The one in the new part of town I mentioned earlier. I usually sit down and work for a while in the branch in the old town and eat their ‘kaasstengel’.
Zutphen is a starting and ending point for various walks. An easy hike is the NS hike from Brummen to Zutphen. NS Hikes can also be hiked in the opposite direction, because they are mostly marked and well signed. It's not easy to get lost on NS walks, but it is possible. The NS Wandeling Uiterwaarden van Cortenoever goes through a nature reserve and it is 14 km long. This route can also be done on Sundays, as the train stops at both stations daily.
Slightly more challenging than a NS hike is the Hanzestedenpad. 2 stages of the Hanzestedenpad can be started or finshed in Zutphen, the stages Brummen - Hoven and Hoven - Deventer. It's a beautiful route, but if there has been heavy rain, part of it may be closed. Please be aware that a detour have to be taken when part of the route is closed. The route is marked, but during high water, even the high-water route may be closed, and it's up to the hiker to find their way to or from Zutphen. Prepare well for this walk and enjoy it, because it's a beautiful walk.
City walks are much easier. These City walks can be bought at VVV Zutphen. There's a wide selection, all shorter than 5 km. The City walks are walkable in about 2 hours. These walks are accessible for everybody. I did the Historic Walk, the Noorderhaven Walk, the Tower Walk, and a few others. All landmarks of Zutphen can be visited by walking these City walks.
The Vrije Academie offered a series of guided tours in the 9 Hanseatic cities. I joined them for the tour in Zutphen to learn more about Zutphen's Hanseatic history. The tour was well-organized, and the guide was knowledgeable about Hanseatic history. Other organizations also offer tours in Zutphen. I chose the Vrije Academie because I could purchase a package of tours through Hanseatic cities from them.
Along the river is a walkable quay, and there is one restaurant with terrace overlooking the river. On one side are the bridge and the northern part of Zutphen with its new houses and on the other side is the old part with a small harbor. This harbor has only boats, no houses or restaurants surrounding it like the one in the Northern part.
Zutphen can be called the city of towers. Numerous towers overlook the city. There is even a City walk visiting all towers of Zutphen. I walked this one, only not on the day that I could visit the towers. Yes, most of the towers in Zutphen can be climbed. Not all season long, but almost all towers have a specific period the tower can be climbed. With bad weather the climbing can be cancelled. I have only been in the Walburgiskerk tower and not in the other once. Some can be reserved in advance, while others are a bit more challenging, as access to the towers is on a first-come, first-climb basis. There's also a limit on the number of visitors allowed at the top during opening hours.
The Walburgis church has one of the city's towers, but there is more. The famous Architect Pierre Cuyper renovated the church. The painted ceiling ornaments are a must-see. The church can be visited when there is no mass or event. There are even guides to tell the story of the church and the monks who used its libraries in the past. The Walburgis church has two 'Librijen' that are worth a visit. The one downstairs can be visited on a regular visit. The one upstairs can only be visited with a valid reason and must be requested in writing. A committee decides whether the reason is sufficient to be allowed to visit the upstairs 'Librije'. I visited both 'Librijen' in the Walburgis church and it was worth the hassle to see the upstairs 'Librije'.
As told before the Walburgis church has two 'Librijen'. It is one of the few churches in the world with books on a chain, which was common practice historically. Monks could get in and out of the 'Librije' without having to ask to use the library, because the books were chained and could not be stolen. There are still old books on a chain in the library downstairs library (Librije). In the upstairs library, the originals are still on the shelves. As mentioned earlier, the downstairs 'Librije' can be visited with a regular visit, and the upstairs one only with permission.
In addition to the libraries in the Walburgis Church, Zutphen also has a public library that functions as a regular library. Zutphen's public library is housed in a former monastery. The library shares the monastery with a hotel and restaurant, both with their own entrance.
Books are kept in the libraries, and Zutphen's old documents are preserved in the Zutphen Archives. I was given a tour of the Zutphen Archives to learn about the preservation of old documents and truly old books. The archives can be visited to view historical documents from Zutphen. I've visited the archives several times to read about Hanseatic history and to view some old documents.
I visited three museums in Zutphen. Two of them are housed in the same building and are effectively one museum, but they are considered two museums for Zutphen. The Stedelijk Museum showcases the history of Zutphen, including its Hanseatic history, and the Henriette Polak Museum exhibits paintings by Henriette Polak and others. The temporary collections on display at the Henriette Polak Museum usually confront the founders' vision.
And the third museum is more a shop with a small museum. It is a museum I only wanted to see, because the way candy was displayed in history is different from now. I don't like candy, but I still waited for the odd hours the shop is open to see the museum. It can be daunting to go into a shop to browse the museum and not buy anything, but it's worth to see what candy shops used to look like: Het Snoepje museum.
Zutphen's old town hall is open to the public when there's activity in the building. The building can be seen by a self-guided tour with a free booklet provided by the volunteers. Nowadays, the old town hall is used for weddings and meetings. In the old days it was used as Butcher’s Hall, prison and court of justice. The volunteers are members of the Guides Guild and can tell a lot about the building's history.