Kizil Buddhist Caves / 克孜尔石窟
Kizil Buddhist Caves / 克孜尔石窟
Essay9: Kizil Buddhist Caves
ON THE SECOND DAY of November, in the golden afternoon of autumn, we arrived at the Kizil Caves, the first stop of Buddhism’s transmission to the east. Entering the cave-complex gate, we encountered a statue of Kumarajiva, the tireless translator, responsible for the translation of many Sanskrit Buddhist texts into Chinese. The cliff, rising from the mountainside, housed the Thousand Buddha Caves. Kizil means “red” in Uyghur, and under the sunlight, the mountain appeared reddish, contrasting with the black bronze statues, creating a moment of serene beauty.
After listening to the guide, we ascended the caves, exploring cave numbers 27, 10, and 17 among the more than two hundred and thirty caves. We gained a shallow understanding of the prosperity of commerce and the zenith of Buddhism back then but were deeply moved by the determination of both merchants and monks who endured hardships for different reasons — profit and faith.
Leaving the cave hastily, standing at a high point, we gazed at the statue of Kumarajiva at the crossroads. When viewed from above, his head slightly tilted as if overlooking the sentient beings. When looked up at, his expression was serene, signifying the realisation of “egolessness”. With a robust physique, he was seated on a lotus, his flowing robes balanced strength and softness. To our surprise, the base plaque turned out to be a calligraphy piece by the renowned scholar Feng Qiyong, blending Eastern and Western influences, bridging ancient and modern.
Photo / 摄影 : YongCM
Kizil means “red” in Uyghur, and under the sunlight, the mountain appeared reddish.
克孜尔在维吾尔语意为“红色”,在阳光照射下,山色赭红
Photo / 摄影 : ChooBH
克孜尔石窟
金秋午后,抵达克孜尔千佛洞,这是佛教东传的首站。
走进石窟大门约一百米、中心大道的第一个路口,即见鸠摩罗什塑像,侧面山壁拔地而起,千佛洞就凿在该断崖上。克孜尔在维吾尔语意为“红色”,在阳光照射下,山色赭红,与黑色铜像相映,一时胸中浊气荡然无存。
为听解说,先登上石窟参观了二百三十余个洞窟中的廿七号窟、十号窟及十七号窟。我们不是朝圣的僧人,只是过客,仅两柱香就穿越了一千七百年,虽浅浅理解了当年商业之繁荣与佛教之鼎盛,却深深感动于商旅与僧人不辞艰辛跋涉千里的意志,纵然前者是为利,后者则为信仰。而从十号的僧房窟往外望,山水环绕,树木成荫,这里确实是修行的好地方。
匆匆出得洞来,站在高处远眺十字路口的鸠摩罗什坐像,头微倾若俯视众生;趋前仰视,神情安详,是知无我故。身躯雄健,端坐莲花,曹衣出水,刚柔相济。更惊喜发现,基座铜牌竟是红学大师冯其庸的墨宝,中西相融,古今辉映。