Departure: Livingston (Waterfront Camp)
Destination: Pandamatenga (Panda Rest Camp)
Previous Trip: 2014
Date Time Start: 2018/05/21 07:15
Date Time End: 2018/05/21 13:09
Travel Time: 05h54
Odometer Start: 89938
Odometer End: 90131
Total Distance (km): 193
Weather:
Livingston: Clear sky at 11C
Padamatenga: Clear skies at 27C
Trip Summary:
I woke up early again …. Yes the birds singing. I made my morning coffee and started packing. I heard microlights flying over so on my way out I stopped at the little microlight land strip. At 07h20 there were tourists lined up for flights. My thoughts of an early morning flight faded away so I headed for the Kasane Border. The idea of a helicopter flight instead was just out of my league.
The distance from Livingston to the Kasane border was only 80km and the road was good so I made good progress.
Arrival at the Zambian Customs was "border nightmare". If this is your first time, as in my case, the only way to get through the process is to get someone to assist. NONE of the offices are marked and each office is hidden around a different corner.
Bike loaded onto the Ferry
The steps involved in the Zambian side included:
1) Immigration Office (no cost)
2) Customs (K20)
3) Ferry ticket purchase (K50)
4) Clearance through the security gate
5) Passage through waiting vehicles to get to the front of the queue.
6) K300 for "assistance" from various people (I was ripped off)
There are a total of 6 ferries and only 1 was working yet there were queues of large trucks waiting to cross.
Once the ferry was unloaded, there was a 30 minute delay while they refueled before anyone was permitted to drive their vehicle onto the ferry.
The Koreans are busy building a bridge that will replace the ferry, however 3 years later and they are far from completed.
There was a group of 40 tourists that were loaded onto speed boats and ferried across the Zambezi. By the time I arrived on the Botswana side, there was a queue of about 30 people resulting in a 30 minute delay. At least everything is organized and orderly without vultures hanging around to rip you off like on the Zambian side.
Queue at Botswana Customs
New bridge being build across the Zambezi River
I headed to Kasane with the idea of camping at Thembe River Safaris. The river had flooded their camp sites. Also there were a lot of trans-Africa vehicles, each carrying about 15 people in town so I decided to look for a quieter destination and headed South along the A33. I saw a turn-off to Senyati Safari Camp. This is a great spot that includes a waterhole where Elephant and Buffalo come to drink - Lynne and I previously popped in to look at the place. The gravel track to the camp consisted of thick sand and being windgat after successfully travelling on similar surfaces, I decided to continue. 200m and the thick sand got the better of me. The bike fell over and the rear pannier buried my right foot into the sand and I was stuck in an awkward position - It felt like my leg could snap if I moved too much. I switched off the engine and hooted - Obviously no-one could hear. I started wondering whether there were Lion or Elephant nearby. I continued sending a SOS hooter message and after about 10 minutes, the Camp Manager arrived as he was heading along the road to the camp regardless. He and his passenger lifted the bike up so I could get my foot loose. THANKS TO THE GUYS WHO HELPED ME.
Bike, Skills, Sand - Sand wins this one
So why did I fall after travelling on similar roads? A: I did not pick up enough speed.
I decided to head back onto tar and stop at Panda Rest Camp about 100km South.
Soon after getting back onto the tar road, I saw elephant. After a couple of kilometers, I saw another group.
The A33 tar road has some potholes due to the heavy rainy season, however the authorities are at least repairing them.
A group of about six BMW R1200GS riders passed heading North along the A33.
QUESTION: Why do you not see KTM's doing these long tours to Namibia nd Botswana? Gives me certainty that the BMW R1200 GS is the bike of choice for Adventure Riding.
Elephants along the A33
Accommodation: Camping
Panda Rest Camp is a rustic stop-over when travelling between Francistown and Kasane.
The camp sites do not have grass but they have the other essentials - Electricity, water, braai and a table to sit at.
There is a nice swimming pool and restaurant.
The ablutions are relatively new and have hot water. The shower drains do not run properly so the water pools up while showing.
Panda Rest Camp Entrance
Panda Rest Camp - Camp Site
Panda Rest Camp - Restaurant