After removing the end from the spur and sanding the rough edges, the first step is to score wood grain effect into the planks on the end pieces.
In the photo abopve you can see this on the end on the left, versus the non-scored end on the right.

The same technique is applied to the planks on the sides. The side at the top is complete, versus the side at the bottom which has none.

In the real worlds this grain would be massively over sized, but once painted the effect is quite pleasing and helps "build a picture" of the age of the van,

After sanding the roof smoooth and drilling tjhe four holes for the roof vents, I then went about fitting the vents form the kit. 

Ping! Off went a vent from the end of my tweezers into never-never land!

So I had no choice but to design and 3d Print some new vents. While researching I found there was a consensu that the vents in the kit were a little undersized. So the left hand vent is a copy of the kit, blown up by 20%. the centre and right were variation from images in the internet. 

David chose the vent matching the kit, so these were the ones I fitted.

The planks are painted individuall with very pale blues and bluey-greens. All done with craft acrylics from The range, slightly watered down.

Because I primed in grey, which is the colour old wood goes when the paint has long since faded or flaked off, I don't need to be super precise with the planks. Any missed nits will show through as grey wood.

Next up is to cut and fit the glass panes. One I scored in a "Y" shape to make it look like it had cracked.

Using a sanding sponge I just flatten the paint a little.

After assembling the ends to the bottom, and then sides to rest of the body, I add two 10g self-adhesive automobile alloy wheel weights to the wagon for stability.

Next up the brake cylinder is fitted

After opening out the bearing holes with a 2mm drill, using a flat surface I carefully press in the brass bearings, and use a tiny blob of contactor to melt the plastic to hold them in.

One of my least favourite tasks in wagon kit building, fitting the solebars. I seem to always end with them splayed or looking knock-kneed. I think this one has turned out ok (so far!)

The brake cylinder actuating "T" bar is cemented in place, aling with the inner "V" hanger.

The solebar tension rods are supplied as a thin piece of plastic tube which needs to be cut in half and bent slightly.

I have noticed what looks like windows bars on a lot of real wagon photos. thank fully there are a number of these in preservation. The real ones look like they have three horizontal flat bars behind the windows, but for a model this may look a bit much so I have opted to fit a single bar per window. I think the effect is pleasing enough without going over the top.

The buffers supplied are lovely brass turned items. They require a flat to be filed on the top of the mounting flange to fit under the end door. It was quite tricky to hold the buffer in tweezers while filing so I opted to hold them in my fingers and file off my finger prints instead,

Once filed correctly, the flat fits nicely under the end door of the van

Some of the more fiddly bits are best primed while still on the spru. 

I then cemented the roof in place and held this with elastic bands.

Next the brake lever was stuck in place. This was a bit tricky as there did not appear to be any reference point for the top of the rack, and only a vague dimple for the lever pivot point.

Fitting the slightly chunk steps under the side doors is the next order of the day. Very little support but just be patient and let the contacta melt the plastic.

Next up is fitting of the brake shoes and arms. I dont fit them too close as I would prefer nicely running wheels I can get out if I need to rather than super tight realistic fit.

There are some little axle box covers to go on. These are pretty tiny and I could not work out from the instruction what orientation they should be. I went for my best guess.

The coupling choice the client wants is Medium D tension locks. I could not agree more. I believe these to be the most reliable coupling for shunting. I just needed to design and print a receiver for the coupling. 

Masking fluid was painted onto the windows, and a green wash to tinge the wagon a more green shade.

I did not have the exact transfers so I have made the best of what I did have available.

Various brown acrylics are applied as tiny blobs on the metalwork using a fine brush. Before the paint dries, the blobs are then blended in with a larger damp brush  .

Just keep working small areas with various rusty browns. The darker browns like the "Umbers" cover larger areas and are well diluted. The "Siennas" are more focused, but are dragged down to make streaks of new rust.