The raw kit is provided straight from the printer, so to speak. There will be "flash" from the printing process that needs sanding off or holes that require drilling out.

Parts in the kit (Figure 1):

• 3D printed buffer beam

• 3D Printed buffers (x2)

• 3D Printed uprights (x2)

Tools Required (Figure 2):

• 2.0 mm diameter drill

• Course (70 or 120 grit )abrasive paper

• Fine (240-400) grit abrasive paper

• Junior hack saw or junior hack saw blade

• Adhesive to glue the parts together (superglue is recommended)

• Adhesive to glue uprights to your track

• You may also need:

  • Flat needle file

  • Pin vice (to hold drill)

Pre-Assembly:

Before it can be used the following preparation operations will be required:

1. Using the course abrasive paper sand the buffer beams length ways on all sides to create "scratches" which will help simulate a wood grain effect. Sand the ends too, taking careful to orientate to simulate the wood grain. Ensure also that any "flash" from the 3D print is removed so the correct buffer beam profile is maintained. (Figure 3)

2. Using the fine abrasive paper sand and roughness off the back of the supports .(Figure 4)

3. Locate the print support bars from the inside of the support frame. (Figure 5)

4. Remove the 3D printing support bars from the inside of the support frame carefully using either a junior hacksaw blade, small needle file or folded abrasive paper. (Figure 6)

5. Although the print does include the two inner "through" holes for the support frame and the two outer "blind" holes for the buffers them selves, resin will often build up in them. Using the 2.0 mm diameter drill with the pin vice (or your fingers) ensure the through holes are clear right through. Then carefully clear out any resin from the blind holes. (Figure 7)

6. Take care to not go right through the blind holes but they must be cleared deep enough for the full length of the buffer spigots. (Figure 8)
   

Kit Assembly:

7. Before assembly, align the support frames on the correct side. The flat side of the support's spiggots faces outwards. (Figure 9)

8. Dry fit the frame supports to the buffer beams, ensuring the spigot on the frame goes fully into the buffer beam and the frame is flush with the back of the buffer beam. If the support spigots do not go in, then the spigots may need a "tickle " with abrasive paper or needle file to correct profile or remove any "burring" on the end. If they protrude too far then the spigots may need a "tickle " with abrasive paper or needle file to reduce length slightly until they fit flush. (Figure 10)

9. Dry fit the buffers into the buffer beam, making sure the 2.0 mm spigots on the buffers go fully into the beam and the back flange of the buffer is flush with the front of the buffer beam. If the support spigots do not go in, then the spigots may need a "tickle " with abrasive paper or needle file to correct profile or remove any "burring" on the end. If they protrude too far then the spigots may need a "tickle " with abrasive paper or needle file to reduce length slightly until they fit flush. (Figure 11)

10. When you are happy with the fitment of buffers and buffer beam, remove all parts and refit with adhesive. (Figure 12)

11. The kit is now ready for painting . Suggested to paint the buffer beam a colour which represents wood, and the rest a rusty iron colour. (See buffer painting guide) (Figure 13)

The pre-assembled version is ready to use right away. All it will need is painting (painting suggestion) and bonding to the rails in-situ.

The assembled kit is now ready for painting.

Suggest paint the buffer beam a colour which represents wood, and the rest a rusty iron colour.

(See buffer painting guide)