The wooden wagon chassis features an oval on each side to simulate the Maker's plate. It features bolts where the W Irons would be attached to the soleplate. Contains optional outer V hanger for the brake levers.

This wagon is based loosely on C channel profile metal wagon chassis. the W irons are not tied with a bar.

This wagon is based loosely on C channel profile metal wagon chassis. the W irons are tied with a bar.

Accurately drill the axle bearing holes in the W-Irons of the sole-bars with a 2mm drill, and remove any burs. Try not to over-drill or "ovalise" the holes, or the bearings will not grab well when pressed in.

Use a larger drill or countersink to remove the burrs and add a small "counter-sink" to either side of the hole.
Run the 2mm drill through one more time after to "ream" the hole.

Don't worry if the hole is a little tight as it will help to grip the brass pin-point bearing when it is pressed in.

The model is designed with a 0.5mm hole already in the V hangers, but the printing process often fills these back in, so need to be drilled out.

Before drilling the V-hangers on the solebars and also the additional external V-hangers if you are fitting them, you may need to create a "centre-dimple" in the correct location for the 0.5mm drill to start in. Ideally use a fine braddle. I am using the tip of my fine tweezers here.

⚠ You may need to poke a locating dimple in the centre of the V-hanger for the drill to start correctly, or the drill may "wander" off the centre.

Use the 0.5mm drill to carefully drill out the holes in the V-hangers on the solebars and also the additional external V-hangers if you are fitting them.

⚠ Try not to miss this step, as it is much harder to try and drill these during assembly.  Yes I did try that!

Ensure the V hanger holes are clear right through

Carefully cut the axle box and springs from the supports.  I use very sharp flush cut side cutters.

⚠ These are very delicate!

Carefully sand the back of the axle box and springs.

With a needle file or abrasive paper, remove any printing artifacts from the top of the leaf springs. 

Using a 2.0mm drill bit, carefully clear out all partially cured resin from the hole in the axle box.  Use very gentle pressure/

⚠ NOTE: Be extremely careful when doing this. If the drill binds, stop and reverse the drill out. Be very careful not to force the drill or it will split the axle box.

⚠ NOTE: Also be very careful not to drill right through! 

File the "Elephant's Foot" off from the inner edge, as the presence of this will prevent the brake blocks from sitting square.

 Lightly sand the flat surfaces of the brake gear to remove printing artefacts.

Sand flat, the base of your chosen coupling block. you may also need to file any "elephants foot" off the rectangular ports where the coupling will push in.

Now is a good time to check the coupling pushes in nicely. Not to tight, but not loose enough for it to fall out either.

⚠ NOTE: It is much easier to test the coupling fit now, than once it is adhered to the chassis. 

If you want to use the supplied wire between the brake hangers, then carefully drill out the centre of the pivot bar of the brake blocks.

You may need to "centre-pop" a hole in the centre of the spigot first. (see inset photo)  A sharp point will be needed.

⚠ NOTE: If the spigot falls off it is not the end of the world. that is more of a feature for those who are not using the wire.

The brake levers may have a slight elephants foot that needs tickling away. They may want a light sand with fine abrasive paper too.

The "toothed rack" for the lever may need a tickle and quick check that it fits over the brake lever. If not lightly sand the lever or use a fine flat needle file to tickle the inner edges of the "toothed rack"

The reversing crank, if you are using that lever, may require a little fettling into shape too.

OPTIONAL: The door bangers are optional items and are only required for some wagons. If you are intending to fit them, they will require dressing with a small file or fine abrasive paper first.

The door banger comes in pairs both attached to the same printing support. Remove the "elephants foot" if present and dress up the lower end of the banger. The tab that sticks out will need dressing to make it flat so it can be glued to the solebar.

⚠ NOTE: Take care not to file away the tiny rivet on the opposite side of the tab, if present. 

⚠ NOTE: Due to the fidelity of FDM printing, sometimes the rivets do not come out well, or at all.

Press the four brass axle bearings squarely into the 2mm holes you have drilled in the two sole bar W-Irons, with the recessed part of the bearings facing the flat side. 

OPTIONS: There are two types of brass bearings that may be supplied; plain or normal. This will be down to what is available at the time I order the parts for these kits.

 If the 2mm hole is accurate, the bearings should grip in the solebar without adhesive; Resist using adhesive if you have plain bearings as these can then be adjusted later. for the top-hat there is no adjustment, so use a dab of adhesive if you wish. I don't normally.

For standard plain bearings, press the solebar down until the inner face of the bearing is flush with the inner face of the solebar, or just slightly protruding - 0.5mm.

For top-hat bearings press the solebar down until it meets the top-hat brim. 

The image above shows the bearings flush on the flat side of the solebar and protruding on the outer, detailed side.

The flush bearings can protrude on the inner edge by up to 0.5mm.

Using an emery board or abrasive paper on a flat surface ensure that both ends of the chassis and sole bars are flush, and the top surfaces is reasonably flush, too.  This will enable a good fit of the buffer beam.

The end without the datum dots may require a bit of sanding to get the chassis and ends flush.

When sanding, ensure that the ends remain square to the chassis length.  I suggest periodically checking with a small engineer's square. 

The ends of the solebars should be flush with the ends of the chassis for a good fit of the buffer beam.

The ends should be square with the top surface of the chassis and the solebars.

 Check the gauge of the Dapol wheel sets and adjust as required, then gently spring the sole plates apart to allow the axle pinpoints to nest into the brass bearings.

The wheels should run very freely if the chassis and soleplates have been assembled correctly.

If you have not used adhesive for the brass bearings, and you have the plain bearings you may be able to "trim" the free running by pushing the bearing in or out a little to suit.

I have supplied two "standard" levers and two standard brake blocks and also one reverser lever and reversed brake blocks. I think this will allow you to have either independent brakes or "Moreton-style" brakes. 

I do not know much about wagon brakes so have gathered what I can from images and the internet. Hopefully, what I have supplied will give the builder of the wagon the flexibility to get close to the brake setup they want to model.

I am more than happy to take feedback on the brake levers with suggestions on how I can improve the model or provide even more brake option flexibility.

Two sets of blocks are supplied with standard actuating arms.

One set of blocks is supplied with reversed actuating arms. 

NOTE: If using the supplied wire you will already have drilled out the pivots and the V-hangers, as per the preparation steps, won't you? 
What do you mean you didn't? Well if you didn't then you are probably going to wish that you did!

Fit the chosen brake blocks inside the chassis on either side.

Ensure the following alignments: 

1. The base of the brake gear cheeks are flush with the top of the chassis and are bonded to the chassis side. 

2. The centre of the pivot bar is in alignment with the centre of the "V Hanger"

3. The vertical supports align with the sole bar vertical supports

4. If using the supplied wire as the pivot rod, ensure the holes in the V hangers are aligned to allow the rod to pass all the way through the V hangers.

Push the axle box over the axel (having already opened out the hole with a 2mm drill in the preparation steps) to ensure a flush fit against the W irons. Once happy remove and refit with a dab of adhesive.

There are two options of coupling block which can be selected at purchase. If you selected the blocks for Dapol Medium-D fit these with the internal spigot towards the centre of the wagon. You can elect to move the coupling block forward or back depending upon how close you want the coupling of the wagons.

I normally push mine as far towards the centre of the wagon as the chassis allows .

There are two options of coupling block which can be selected at purchase. If you selected the blocks for NEM pockets fit these with the widest portion touching the wagon chassis

Fit the buffer beams with adhesive, centrally to the centre line of the wagon, and flush with the top of the chassis. Ensure to get the hook the right way up! (Yes I have done the opposite one time! Doh!)

Decide which brake levers are appropriate to the wagon you are modelling and pass the lever through the rack, ensuring the square "nub" is recessed into the solebar which brings the rack outwards slightly.

If the type of wagon you are building comes with door bangs, then fit these centrally to the chassis.