The raw kit is provided straight from the printer, so to speak. There will be "flash" from the printing process that needs sanding off or drilling out.

Parts in the kit:

• 3D printed base

• 3D printed top cover

• 3D printed pivot crank arm (+ 1 spare)

• 2mm diameter brass rod

• Wire (actuation lever)

Tools Required:

• Pin vice

• 1mm diameter drill

• 2mm diameter drill

• Flat needle file (or 120-240 grit abrasive paper)

• Junior hack saw or junior hack saw blade

• Side cutters / wire cutters

• Adhesive (to glue base to your trackbed / baseboard)

Pre-Assembly

Before it can be used the following operations will be required:

1. Open out the slot in the base with the junior hacksaw blade, or by "milling" it with a 1.0 mm - 1.2 mm drill (Figure 1)

2. Ensure the hole in the base is clear and pass all the way through using a 2.0 mm drill as the resin will certainly have partially filled it. (Figure 2)

3. Ensure the two larger holes in the crank arm are clear and pass all the way through using a 2.0 mm drill as the resin will certainly have partially filled it. (Figure 3)

4. Ensure the three holes in the top are clear and pass all the way through using a 2.0 mm drill as the resin will certainly have partially filled it. (Figure 4)

5. Using the pin vice drill the 1mm hole through the top cover and elongate it slightly in the direction of the wooden planks. (Figure 5)

6. Using the pin vice open out the 1mm hole in the crank arm and elongate it slightly in the same orientation as the slot in the base when in the correct position. (Figure 6)

7. Add wood grain effect to the top cover by sanding in the direction of the plank effect with 120 or 180 grit paper. (See Figure 5 for orientation). Sand sand sides of cover and base with same grit taking car to emulate correct grain orientation. sand the underside of the base to give a key for adhesive.

8. Lightly sand with fine (240+ grit) abrasive paper either side of the crank arm. Remove any excess resin "flash" from the printing process.

9. Straighten and cut the paper clip to the desired length of your lever.

10. Your kit is now ready for assembly, and please now refer to the Pre-prepared kit instructions.

The prepared kit will be pre-drilled and pre-sanded and tested on a point lever, and should be ready to fit. However due to variances in points and the printing process minor "fettling" may be required to get smooth faultless operation. The prepared kit may arrive as a kit of parts (Figure 7), or partially assembled (Figure 8).

Parts in the kit:

• 3D printed base

• 3D printed top cover

• 3D printed pivot crank arm (+ 1 spare)

• 2mm diameter brass rod, 6mm long

• Wire (actuation lever)

Installation for kit of parts

1. Trial fit the point lever base in the desired location against the point, checking for a snug fit. If the base does not fit snugly, then a little filing or sanding may be required. (Figure 9). Depending upon which side of the point you fit the base, you may need to trim the point sleepers.

2. Glue the base in place with a suitable adhesive.

3. Fit the 6mm long, 2mm diameter brass rod into the hole in the base. (Figure 10)

4. Fit the crank arm to the base by placing the corner 2mm dia hole over the 2mm dia brass rod. Locate the end 2mm dia hole over the point spigot . Push the crank all the way down the 2mm rod. (Figure 11)

5. If the plastic upright spigot on the end of the point blade tie bar its above the top of the crank arm you may need to trim this down a little. Some points will require this. You will need to remove the point lever crank arm first. You will need to clean up the shape of the spigot to ensure it is round again. Then refit the point lever crank arm. (Figure 12).

6. Check the point action and the motion of the crank arm. Both should operate freely. (Figure 13)

7. Fit the lid while carefully lining up the three 2mm holes with the two plastic spigots on the base and the 2mm pivot rod. Sometimes the lid may have warped slightly so may need to be straightened out a little. (Figure 14)

8. Check the movement of the point blades is free and there is no binding of the point or the lever. If the movement feels "notchy" or rough remove the lid and determine what is rubbing. Resolve this by trimming or sanding the offending component. Often the spigot on the point blade tie bar will hit the underside of the lid so the height of the spigot will need to be trimmed. (Figure 15)

9. To fit the point lever the point blades must be in the centre position. (Figure 16)

10. With the point blades in the centre position, fit the wire lever into the hole. Ensure it passes down through the crank arm. (Figure 17)

11. Check the point and lever operates without any roughness. (Figure 18) If the point blade does not move so not force it, the point lever may not be fully in the hole. Remove the point lever, check blade operation is free and then return to step 10.

Installation for partially assembled

1. Locate the base against the extended point sleepers which straddle the point blade tie-bar. The base of the point lever kit must be on the same level as the bas of the track sleepers. Place the pre-assemble point lever base with the pivot arm over the point blade tie bar spigot. Of the top of the point blade tie bar spigot protrudes higher than the crank arm, this will need to be trimmed down and reshaped to be round. (Figure 19)

2. Slide the base in against the point sleepers until fully home. (Figure 20)

3. Continue at Step 9 of "Installation for kit of parts"

Typically used for Left hand points

Can be used for Y points but some cutting of sleepers may be required.

Typically used for right hand points.

Can be used for Y points but some cutting of sleepers may be required.