The raw kit is provided straight from the printer, so to speak. There will be "flash" from the printing process that needs sanding off or holes that require drilling out.

Parts in the kit:

• 3D printed buffer beam

• 3D Printed buffers (x2)

• 3D Printed uprights (x2)

Tools Required:

• Pin vice

• 2.0 mm diameter drill

• Course (70 or 120 grit )abrasive paper

• Fine (240-400) grit abrasive paper

• Junior hack saw or junior hack saw blade

• Adhesive to glue the parts together (superglue is recommended)

• Adhesive to glue uprights to your track

• You may also need:

  • Flat needle file

Pre-Assembly:

Before it can be used the following preparation operations will be required:

1. Although the buffer beam print does include the two inner "through" holes for the support frame and the two outer "blind" holes for the buffers them selves, resin will often build up in them. Using the 2.0 mm diameter drill (Figure 3) with the pin vice or your fingers, ensure the through holes are clear right through. Then carefully clear out any resin from the blind holes. Take care to not go right through the blind holes but they must be cleared deep enough for the full length of the buffer spigots .

2. Using the course abrasive paper sand the buffer beams length ways on all sides to create "scratches" which will help simulate the wood grain. Sand the ends too, taking careful to orientate to simulate the wood grain. (Figure 4)

3. Locate the print support bars from the inside of the support frame. (Figure 5)

4. Remove the print support bars from the inside of the support frame using either a junior hacksaw blade, small needle file or folded abrasive paper. (Figure 6)
   

Kit Assembly:

5. Dry fit the buffers into the buffer beam, making sure the 2.0 mm spigots on the buffers go fully into the beam and the back flange of the buffer is flush with the front of the buffer beam. If the buffer spigots do not go in then the spigots may need a tickle to reduce any burring on the end. (Figure 7)

6. Dry fit the frame supports to the buffer beams, ensuring the spigot on the frame goes fully into the buffer beam and the frame is flush with the back of the buffer beam. If the support spigots do not go in then the spigots may need a tickle to reduce any burring on the end. (Figure 8)

7. Check for protrusion of the support frame spigots past the front of the buffer beam. Sans these down if required in the same orientation as the "wood grain effect" on the buffer beam. (Figure 9)

8. Assemble the kit with super glue, ensuring the support legs are at right-angles to the buffer beam and the bolt heads on the buffer flanges are aligned as desired. (Figure 10)

9. Suggest paint the buffer beam a colour which represents wood, and the rest a rusty iron colour. (See buffer painting guide) (Figure 11)

The pre-assembled version is ready to use right away. All it will need is painting (painting suggestion) and bonding to the rails in-situ.

Assemble the kit with super glue, ensuring the support legs are at right-angles to the buffer beam and the bolt heads on the buffer flanges are aligned as desired.

Suggest paint the buffer beam a colour which represents wood, and the rest a rusty iron colour.

(See buffer painting guide)