BB7
http://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2006_BB5and7_English.pdf
https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/BB7%20User%20Manual.pdf
Fine tuning
Before each ride
Check cables for signs of wear or fraying. Squeeze the brake lever firmly and check for proper brake
function. Adjust for pad wear if necessary. Check pads for wear and replace if necessary. Ensure
rotors are free of foreign substances and oils.
Cable slack adjustment
Use the barrel adjuster on the brake lever (BB7 mountain) or the in-line barrel adjuster (BB7 road) to remove any cable slack from the system. Turn the adjuster out until there is no free play in the lever but not so far that the torque arm on the caliper is advanced. The torque arm should return completely when the brake lever is released. If necessary, repeat Step 6. note: new cables will stretch and require adjustment.
Pad break in
It may take anywhere from 20 to 40 complete stops to break in Avid pads. You may begin to notice an increase in braking power after the first ride. Brake noise can occur not only during the break-in period but off and on throughout the life of the brake pads. Noise is dependent upon factors such as brake setup, rider weight, riding style, braking style, and riding conditions (i.e. dust, soil, and contamination of friction surfaces).
Care and cleaning
Extreme care must be taken when cleaning both the bicycle and its new disc brakes. Under normal
use, it is not necessary to clean the caliper rotor or pads. If necessary, use only water and dish detergent to wash the caliper and rotor – being sure to thoroughly rinse all soap residue from the rotor. Dry with a clean paper towel.
Spring tension adjustment
If necessary, spring tension can be adjusted by turning the spring tension adjustment screw screw with a 2.0mm hex wrench. Turning the screw clockwise increases spring tension, which equals harder lever pull.
Pad wear adjustment
Over time, you will need to compensate for brake pad wear. You can do so with two very simple adjustments: Turn both the inboard and outboard red adjusting knobs clockwise one or two clicks as needed to restore your brake to optimum settings. DO NOT use your barrel adjuster to compensate for pad wear. A pad wear indicator is at the center of each knob. As the knob is turned in, the indicator will retract deeper into the knob giving a visual indication of approximately how much the pads have worn.
Pad replacement
A pad should be replaced when its total thickness (backing plate and friction material) is less than 3mm.
1. REMOVE THE OLD PADS - Back both adjuster knobs all the way out (counterclockwise,) then squeeze the pad tabs together and pull both pads straight out of the caliper.
2. INSTALL THE NEW PADS AND SPRING - Assemble the spring between the new left and right pads. Align the spring to the pad as shown. Squeeze the brake pad/spring clip assembly together then press firmly into the caliper until it “clicks” into place. The pad marked “R” goes on the spoke side of the brake.
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ALIGN THE CALIPER
A. Turn the inboard (closest to the wheel) knob clockwise until it pushes the rotor into the position shown. Note that the rotor should not be centered between the walls of the caliper body.
B. Turn the outboard pad adjustment knob in until it is firmly squeezing the rotor against the inboard pad – thus immobilizing the actuating arm. Your caliper is now in perfect position and ready to be tightened. You’ll back the pads off again in a few moments.
C. Tighten the two CPS bolts that attach the caliper to the mounting bracket. Tighten one and then the other, repeating until they are at the specified torque.
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ADJUST THE PADS
Turn both pad adjustment knobs counterclockwise until desired pad/rotor clearance is achieved (approx. 2 or 3 clicks each). important: only use the barrel adjuster at the brake lever to adjust for cable slack. for lever throw, use the outboard adjustment knob. for brake pad wear adjustment, use both the inboard and outboard knobs.
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