1870

(1) A TRIP TO FUSIYAMA, " THE PEERLESS,"  --- THE SACRED AND HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN JAPAN. BY C. H. REDHEAD. 

※著者のC.H.レッドヘッドは、チャールズ・ダラスやジョン･パリーらと同じように幕末横浜に商務のためにやってきて、明治政府発足と共に英語教師として雇われたらしい。ヴァルカン鉄工所を営むマクヴェインと親しくしており、1870年初夏に一緒に富士登山し、レッドヘッドはその記録を新聞に寄稿した。本文中のイニシャルMやMcはマクヴェインを指す。この切り抜きはマクヴェイン文書の中に治められているが、どの雑誌なのか不明。明治初期の富士山の登山記録としては最も詳細であろう。

CHAPTER I

   Fusiyama, named by the Japanese " The Peerless," stands about forty miles at the back of Yokohama, which is the principal consular port in Japan. It is almost a perfect cone in shape, and its height has been variously estimated at from fourteen to sixteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. To people living in a flat country, such as England is, it is almost impossible to convey an adequate idea of what eixteen thousand feet really is ; 'but I think when it is understood that the mountain in question can be seen by people on board ship at a distance of two hundred miles in clear weather from the coast, some slight notion may be imagined of its height. Fusiyama from time immemorial has been held sacred by the Japanese—so much so, that at a certain time in each year thousands of pilgrims swarm from all parts of the empire to. pay their devotions; at the various shrines dedicated to the god supposed to preside over it ; and to such a degree is its sanctity respected by them, that it is looked upon as sacrilege for a foreigner to attempt to ascend it. Your readers may often see upon Japanese curiosities how the artists delight in beautifying almost everything with a picture or outline of this mountain, and it is astonishing the amount of veneration displayed by the Japanese in talking of it. They maintain there is not another object on earth to compare with " The Peerless" mountain, which stands a solitary sentinel watching over the empire and the destinies of the people. Even the most unromantic European cannot well look at this grand object without feeling to some extent the admiration lavished upon it by the natives. I have mentioned Yokohama. At the time I am referring to, the foreign concession in the town contained about seven thousand Europeans of various nationalities. besides a battalion of English troops, and I must say of all the pleasant places I ever resided in, Yokohama was the most enjoyable. The residents were mostly young men, and as there was a marked scarcity of the fair sex (European ladies I mean), bachelors clubs of all kinds were the order of the day, and riding excursions were looked upon as one of the great sources of amusement. Unfortunately at this time the Japanese authorities were very jealous of foreigners mixing with the country people, and on many occasions these harmless exetsrsion parties were sent back under escort to their respective consuls for having crossed the peaty Limit contrary to law. However, no very serious consequences resulted from these transgressions, although of course they caused a great deal of disappointment and annoyance, and no doubt were the cause of preventing many foreigners from eavisiaing r-Fusiyarrut---eretio would othervriae have done so. It was not without some little difficulty that our party was organised, and the strictest secrecy had to be main--Seined in order to prevent tlithereetlaarities from getting an inkling-of our intentions. In this matter-ere were ably assisted by an old resident, a member of the English club, who kindly engaged the Japanese coolies to carry our pro-visions, and made arrangements with them (as he spoke the language well) to fall into our views as far as possible. Of course we did not inform the coolies of our ultimate destination, but merely sent them on one day's journey ahead of us. Our party consisted of three, viz., Mr. W—. who had just arrived from England, and who was bent upon seeing as much of the country as he could in the shortest possible time, he only having some eight days to spare before the arrival of the Pacific mail steamer, by which he was anxious to leave for San Franciso, en route for England ; Mr. Mc--, who had been a resident in Yokohama for some years, and was tolerably well acquainted with the country and manners of the people. although he knew very little of the language. As for myself —well, I need only say I held an Imperial Government appointment, and had not been much more than a year in Japan, and beyond short excursions had not seen much of the country. The first named Mr. W was a total stringer to both Mc-- and myself, and was only introduced to us by a mutual friend a day or two before we made arrangements to start upon the journey ; for which introduction we had very little reason to thank him afterwards. for W—turned out to be. without exception, the most disagreeable companion I think it was ever my luck to fall in with. After the preliminaries of the journey were settled, such as hiring horses, coolies, purchasing provisions, &c., we arranged to start on the following afternoon, and sent the coolies on before us with our provender to meet us at a place called Fugisawa, about twenty miles out of Yokohama. where we intended to sleep the first night. As there was nothing more to be done that night, we all three arranged to meet at the ciub at 6 p.m. and dine together, after which, the usual bout at billiatds and a chat upon the prospects of our journey formed the amusement and discussion of the evening. 'During all this proceeding' Mr. W- made himself very agreeable, and appeared to be a very decent fellow, although, like many Englishmen who have not been long away from home, a little stiff perhaps ' . however, we thought that would wear off in time, and that he would eventually thaw. as the Yankees say. So, after spending a very pleasant evening, we separated for the night, arranging to-meet again on the following day at the house of our friend Mac, have 'tiffin there, and make a start. 

CHAPTER II

   Punctual to the time we all assembled at Mr. Mc-'s, where wehnet a few friends who had been anxious previously to join our party, but from one cause or another were prevented from doing so. One and all declared, how-ever, that it did not matter much, as they were quite convinced we should not be allowed to go beyond the Treaty Limits. Of course in their case the " grapes were sour," and a good deal of chaff was carried on by both sides in consequence. After partaking of a very substantial tiffin, for 'which our worthy friend Mac was celebrated, we adjourned to the stable yard to mount and make a stati, as it was getting rather late in the afternoon. At this point rather a startling announcement was made by our betos (horse boys), of whom more anon, viz., that the horse which Mr. W- was to mount was a vicious brute, and that very few people could ride him. possessing the pleasing faculty of biting and kicking out at other horses. However, as Mr. W.- did not know what was being said, and as he had been bragging to us the night before of certain very daring feats of horseman-ship in which he had come off successfully, we were greatly interested to see how matters would turn when he attempted to mount. We were not long kept in suspense. Mr. VT-- stepped up. looked knowingly at the girths, and mounted, but he scarcely had his right leg over the saddle. when, to the astonishment of all, not excepting Mr, W--, the pony stood upright on his hind legs for a second or two, and then with one sudden plunge put his head between his fore lees, up went his heels, and poor kr. W-- was shot from the saddle head first, and landed very much in the position enjoyed by a stranded frog. After performing this feat, the pony stood stock still, and appeared to be locking inquiringjy for another gentleman to mount him. Mr. who was luckily not much hurt, declined the honour, and nothing could. ersuade him to try again. What with our laughing, and the derision of the betos. Mr. W-- turned sulky. and stated it as his opinion, "that we had pre-atranged for that particular pony," and intimated that " he did not like practical jokes. for they were low, and inadmissible among gentle-men." As neither. Mac nor myself had anything to do with ordering his pony, these remarks were quite uncalled for, and unjust ; but as Mr. W-- was not in an amiable humour, we did not think it advisable to argue the point, be-yond assuringhim th'at we had never previously heard of the Pony, and certainly had not played any practical joke upon him. He eventually agreed to take another pony which had been sent for, and we made a start in earnest without further difficulty. Bidding good bye to our friends we at last got away across the bridge which separates the foreign concession from the native village of Roraima,. I may mention that in early times when Europeans first settled in Yokohama. the Japanese Government only con-ceded a very small spot for their residence and business places, and thought it necessary to dig a moat round it, thus, isolating them from the native 'population. For many years no European was allowed to cross this moat without the direct permission of the Japanese Govern-ment, and then only under the escort of two mounted troopers supplied by the Government. But at this time, I am glad to say, they have found the futility of such a system of restriction, and the Treaty Limits have been ex-tended to some forty miles round Yokohama ; in fact, there is now a coach running from Yokohama to Odawarae a distance of fully forty miles, and many people avail themselves of this convenience to visit the. hot springs and baths at Mionoshta during the summer season ; but although Mionoshta is only some ten miles from Odawara, people wishing to go there are obliged to apply to the Japanese Government for a permit and get it endorsed by their consul I shall hereafter endeavour to give a slight description of these extraordinary baths, which we visited on our return from Fusiyama. Following the course of the moat in a northerly direc-tion, we passed through the crowded village of Homura,, which is a very dirty specimen. composed of small houses, narrow streets, almost impa,ssahle in winter, from the soft nature of the ground, and no attempt having been made to, macadamize them. It was quite a relief when we left this wretched neigh-bourhood, and emerged into the open rice fields in the ad-joining valley. These rice fields are arranged in squares wed oblongs of various sizes, and are connected by narrow paths, only wide enough for one person to walk upon, and every here and there small creeks are bridged with a single -nlenk, so narrow, that nothing but the mire-footed, cat-like.4.epanese pony would attempt to cross them. The Japane4disnlay a great deal of science in the irrigation of these fielee eeirine the growth of th r' not be leper trereen and as soon as the rice is harvested the fields are drained, and another crop of wheat or barley is sown, and the whole face of the country is changed. These transitions • take Place twice a year. Following these narrow paths for something over three miles. we arrived without accident at the range of hills on the opposite side of the valley, close to the village of Toteka on the Tokaido (great southern road). From the summit of these, hills there is a magnificent view of Yoko-hama Bay and the opposite town of Kanaeawa, the ship-ping in the distance in front, and a beautifrti undulating country stretching away for miles on either side, wooded to the very edge of the rice fields, which from this point are most lovely. The various patches of rice, differing in shades of green, according to the length of time it has been planted, remind one of a beautifully-variegated chess board. 

   Our betos, for we had three, one to each pony,' had arrived hefdre us by a short cut; and were waiting-for us on the Tokaido. They are wonderful runners, and on long journeys keep pace with their respective ponies on foot for any distance inside of forty miles. They are entirely naked when on duty, with the exception of a cloth round the loins, and are most beautifully tatooed (if one may use the---terto) all_gxer their_ bodies with various 'devices of birds, fish. animals, &e., in-Z-olnurs of dark blue and vex:. They are a small distinct class, thin and wiry, and appear to be quite impervious to fatigue. They have peguliar laws among themselves.' For instance, they all belong- to a sect or society (similar • to our trades unions), and if you discharge one of them and employ another man who does not belong to the society, the chances ,are he will be terribly Mused on the first occasion any of the society men get hold of him. I remember an instance in point.' I had employed one of those society men for some months, but found that my pony was getting into very bad condition. although- a very large ration of corn was supposed to be consumed. I asked the beto how he ac-corinted for this, and he replied: Oh wakaroungi ! (I don't kftew), a phrase made use of by the Japanese servants quite as often as by those of any other nationality. I happened to know, however, that he did know—so, walk-ing over to his quarters. T pointed to a large bag of barley which he had hidden all ready for carrying off. He pro-tested his innocence of course, but as the .corn had been ,given out to him daily for the pony he had not a lee to stand upon. I discharged him with a sound horse-whipping, and employed another man who did not belong to the society. The consequence was, a day or two afterwards the new man appeared with his head tied 'up, having been most unmercifully beaten by some of the "guild" who had waylaid him. He informed me that he could not remain in my service, as they had threatened to kill him if he did. Rather than be forged to employ another of this clique. I lent my pony to a friend, and did without one for several months. To proceed with our story, We started ' along the Tokaido at a rapid pace, as the road was good and tolerably level, all in first-rate spirits from the exercise ; even Mr. W— condescended to remark that "Japan was a very delightful country for those who spoke the language." The day was very hot and bright, and, mile after mile the aspect of the country improved, until we entered what appeared to be an interminable avenue or tunnel formed by splendid crimson and white camelia trees thirty or forty feet high, whose tops intertwined above our heads, affording a delightfully cool shade from the heat of the afternoon sun. The road was literally covered trios blossoms which had fallen, and I remarked to Mac. "If people in England could only have a glimpse or tIsis avenue, how they would enjoy it!" -.Oh, yes !" he returned. "hut if you were to tri to describe it, and tell them that.you had ridden for miles over flowers 'which would cost probably 6d, a piece in England, they would think you were ' throwing the hatchet.' Take my advice and don't try." With such like snatches of conversation we chatted away until we came to a small roadeide tea house (chain), where we dismounted ostensibly for a drink of tea ; but Mac insisted upon my producing a bottle of something stronger ; and sending the old lady in chara'e of the house for a jug of 'icy cold spring water, we sat down and re-galed ourselves with a stiff glass of grog and a pipe, much to Mac's satisfaction and my own. Mr. W-- con-soled himself with a cup of milk, being a teetotaller, and as -he aid not smoke, and seldom had anything. to say ex-cept to hurry us on for his own convenience, I don't think he was quite so happy as he might have been. The scenery from here for some miles was obscured, as the road was very flat, with dense woods on either side, but on ascending a slight bill, there was a break in the avenue of trees, and then one of the most lovely sunsets I think I ever beheld burst upon our view. Nothing that I have seen, even in the tropics, could compare with it, the lights and shades upon the gorgeously wooded moun-tains and bare peaks in the distance with the wonderful combinations of colour in the sky, the numerons little white hamlets peeping out of sequestered valleys amidst trees, and innumerable tiny sails of junks and fishing boats on a branch of the Gulf of Yedo at our feet, made up such a fairy scene as only the most romantic fancy could possibly imagine. Alas ! it was of brief duration. fancy the twilight does not last long in this latitude, and before many minutes had elapsed the glory of the sunset was passed; and surrounding objects were rapidly becoming in-distinct. With a lingering feeling of regret 'for the sud-den disappeariance of such a lovely sight we hurried alOng as fast as possible to get to Fugisawa before it was quite dark, and after a sharp gallop of twenty minutes or so we drew up at the tea house and dismounted (personally seeing our ponies properly housed and fed, a very neces sary precaution in Japan). After the usual salutations with the landlord and his family, we were shown upstairs (first taking off our boots, which is one of the customs of the country), ordered sup-per and hot baths, lighted our pipes, and made ourselves at home. As one Japanese tea house resembles another in almost everything but size, I will endeavour to give a slight sketch of this one which was a very fair specimen, thus saving a great deal of repetition hereafter. The house in question is built immediately facing the street, and consists of two stories, the front and one side having an enclosed verandah. The floor of the lower apartments is raised about eighteen inches above the floor Of the verandah, and is covered with exquisitely clean white mats (tadarnis). These mats are all of one size, about six• feet long by two feet broad, and two' inches thick, and the-size of a house is always estimated by the number of mats on the floors. There are four compart-ments on each flat, for they cannot be called rooms, as the divisions are made by moveable paper or silk screens. The latter are very expensive, being ornamented most elaborately with gilt and embroidery, and really are very -handsome. The poorer classes only-use ornamental paper. But the mats, although varying in quality and fineness, will always be found scrupulously clean in the poorest dwellings ; in fact, no people in the world practice cleanli-ness to a greater exteir, than the Japanese of all classes. Upstairs the same state of things prevails—there is no fur-niture of any kind, and you have to sit or lie down on the mats in the most comfortable position you can find. Every tea-house has its hot and -cold baths, and even the poor peasantry would feel scandalised if they did not possess the luxury of a hot bath. A garden in Miniature flourishes at the back of the house with a pond in the centre, which is filled with gold , and silver fish, so tame that they will feed out of your , hands. The garden is always most tastefully arranged 1 with shell and stone borders. &c. But as I shall have occasion to refer again to this subject, I will leave it for the present. The usual bill of fare at a tea house is composed of the following artiales—viz., rice, eggs, fish, fowls, potatoe-S—(sweetl, seaweed.(used as a vegetable), awahi (dried shell fish), irico (sea slug), rice cakes, sweetmeats, pickles, &c., and a spirit called saki, made from rice. which resembles in flavour very inferior sherry and which has a most intoxi, eating effect upon the natives when drinking it in large quantities, which however they only do on certain festivi- ties. '  

The attendance is always remarkably rood, and every ! one belonging to the establishment civility itself. It may appear somewhat strange to hear that upon all occa-sions when domestics enter the room of his or her snps•ior • it is the recognised etiquette for them to, go down on their hands and knees, and bow their foreheads until they touch the mats, with the exclamation—" Hey I" breathed hard. Should any servant neglect to do this it is looked upon as a i insult ; and much as the generality of Europeans dis-like servility, they are compelled to receive this homage from their native servants, or they would lose caste, and, what is worse, all proper respect. The beds are made of four or five thick cotton quilts laid upon the mats, and the covering is composed of the same material ; they form very soft, warm, and comfort-able beds. If it be in summer, when the niosquitos• are , rampant, you are then supplied with fine white mosquito curtains, which are trice(' up to the ceiling of the apart-ment, and completely exclude -these venomous little blood-suckers. People who are fond of lying in bed in the mornings would scarcely be comfortable at one of these tea houses, as the whole household is astir by the very first glimpse of daylight, and then the noise and clatter effectually banish sleep. Taking up the thread of our narrative, a hot bath and change of clothes soon made us feel refreshed and com-fortable after our ride, and supper being brought in. made up of various dishes cooked in Japanese style, with souse of the provisions we had of our own, we set to work with ravenous appetites. and certainly demolished about twice as much as we should have done had we remained in town. The Japanese mode of serving a meal is decidedly peculiar to themselves. It consists of the following dishes, brought in in quick succession on the most infinitesimal dishes, not much larger than a good sized oyst©r shell, namely, soup, rice in various forms, fish cooked, fish raw (albacore), seawe'ed, irico, awabi, clams, sweet turnip (daigoou), sweet potatoes; pickles, soui (a kind of catchup), eggs fried and boiled, stewed chicken, and a variety of cakes, sweet-meats, &c. The whole of the above are supposed to he 1 partaken of, as it is not considered manners to refuse any-thing. After the last of the debris was cleared away, our host inquired whether we should like a little music, and as Mr. W-;---- had never listened to the exquisite strains of a Japanese concert; having heard nothing of a higher order than the Italian Opera, he was very anxious to avail him-self of the opportunity offered, as he might never have j another chance. Accordin.-1 half a dozen artiste e. ere all - yotimr girls, fairly good looking, and from the first ap-peared bent upon captivating ourserious friend, Mr. W----. Mac and I had both heard the " peculiarly classical" Japanese music before, so that we were more or less prepared for any little excentricities which might occur. Neither of us, I am sorry to say, possessed "educated ears" for music, nor did we profess to under-stand the various turns and intricacies of what 'is usually accepted as classical music, so that our friend W-- had a great advantage over us, inasmuch as he had already told us that he could not stand old English or Scotch airs —they were tame, and always reminded him of a barrel organ. He was delighted to hear that the music proposed to be sung on this occasion were the compositions of the oldest and most esteemed Japanese masters. The Japaneee ladies having arranged themselves oppo-site us in a semi-circle, our friend, all anxiety to pay the most critical attention to the overture which was about to commence, sat smiling sweetly at the assembled performers, who seemed quite delighted to have an appreciative audience. The concert was commenced by a series of shakes and demi-semi-quavers in a high falsetto voice by one who seemed to be the leader, then more shakes and a tremen-dous accompaniment on a kind of banjo, apparently played on a different key ; to this was added a torn to (drum) performed upon by a boy in the back-ground, who did it ample justice ; then came the chorus, which was joined in by all the spare members of the establishment, who really did their best in trying to please us, one screaming against the other until the noise was something, exquisite. At this moment I glanced at our friend W--, and was amused to find him sitting with his eyes and mouth wide open, and with both hands to his ears as though the melody. were too much for him. Just when we thought he was in the height of his enjoyment, he roared out, "Stop, you she ' Divinities,' you will drive me crazy." But the per-formers, taking thiS interruption for applause, only re-doubled their efforts. The, noise at this point baffled all description, and it was only put an end to, by our friend rushing through their midst, upsetting two or three of the ladies in his attempt to get downstairs, where he remained until the concert was finished. On his return, I said to him,—" You seemed very much affected by the music, What made you rush away before it was finished ?" "Finished, indeed ! I had quite enough of it, if that be what you call a Japanese classical concert." " Well," said I, " I must confess that I prefer the old English and Scottish airs to that kind of thing, as they are simple and full of harmony. I suppose you don't appre-ciate the Japanese music ?" . " My dear sir, you have said quite enough on this sub-ject ; pray let it drop. I have to thank you both for another practical.joke, which I shall not forget in a hurry. Good night." Mac and I wished him food night, and went outside to have our pipes and a laugh at poor W-- and his classical music. On returning to the house, our friend was fast asleep, and we lost no time in following his example. ( To be continued). 

• IN: 

1873

(1) Letter of Gratitude from Minister of State

Mr McVean , Dear Sir

Many thanks for your valuable service of taking the trouble of making design for the furniture sent to Austria.

Please accept this accompaning lacquered work as a small token of my appreciation for your favor.

I remain Sirs,

Feby 23rd /73 Respectfully Vi. Minister Sano. 

※佐野は佐賀藩出身で藩の近代化事業を主導し、30歳を過ぎてから長崎海軍伝習所で学び、幕末から明治初期の科学技術官僚の一人。明治政府発足と共に兵部省に出仕したが、その部局では力を発揮できずにいた。1870年11月に工部省発足が議論し始めた時、おそらく山尾庸三の推薦で、1871年9月に同省大丞/灯台正に就任した。山尾が出張するときには、彼の代理としてマクヴェインに対応した（銀座築地再開発計画事業と皇居建設事業）。

   1872年に入り、文部省と工部省がウィーン万国博覧会への参加を決めると博覧会掛兼務となり、まずその準備として湯島博覧会を開催した。そこに集められた逸品をウィーンで展示しようというもので、開催期間中に何度かマクヴェインは佐野に呼び出されて展示を視察した。マクヴェインは、1851年と62年のロンドン万博、1867年のパリ万博を観ており、その経験を佐野に話をした。同年12月になり、佐野にまた呼び出され、ウィーン万博日本館の展示ケースのデザインについて相談を受けた。マクヴェインはそのデザイン素案を作成し、グラスゴーの建築家キャンベル・ダグラスの手を経て、エジンバラ屈指のMorton Scot & Co.に発注された。製品は、1873年4月にウィーンで待つ佐野に届いたらしく、佐野は尽力してくれたマクヴェインに礼状を贈った。Vi. Minister Sanouと読めるが、佐野はVice Minister副大臣ではなかったので、実際はActing Vice Ministerぐらいであったろう。

1873

(1) Japan Note, date unknown.

   I am not going to attempt to give you a general history of Japan or a lengthy discourse -.  Our time will not admit of it - but if you will allow me I will try and give you a short description of incidents that have come under my own notice during a residence of 5 years in that country.

   Perhaps I had better begin by giving you some idea of what the country is like its people & climate – well – the greater part of Japan is not at all unlike some portions of our own country such as parts of Argyll and Perth shire - it is mountainous and well wooded – with fertile valleys -  and stretches of low lands – mainly […….] under rice crops rice being the principal  article of food used by the people -  who until quite lately were not allowed to use animal food – fish rice and a few other vegetables being the sole articles of diet -  Wheat Barley and oats grow well -  also two kinds pf potato  - The common potato you know so well here – and a large sweet kind – both are exceedingly good -  and as far as I know they have little or none of the disease so injurious to the plant with us.

   The climate is on the whole good - warm weather commences in April and lasts till the middle of October - for 3 or 4 or perhaps 6 weeks about July and August it is very hot hotter than any thing you experience here the winter is long and cold but generally very bright and sunny - which makes it enjoyable - summer is the rainiest season and then too we are liable to heavy gales called tyfoons - they do considerable damage sometimes - I have seen houses blown down - on one occasion a house in Yedo adjoining one

I happened to be staying in was completely destroyed - and rather than risk staying indoors while the storm lasted.

– I went out and took shelter among some small bushes - fortunately those hurricanes only last a few hours - but more alarming still are the earthquakes - of which we experienced a number during the years - sometimes they are very alarming – and at long intervals they occur so violently as to cause considerable loss of life - about 16 years ago 50 or 60 Thousand people were destroyed in Yedo by an earthquake - In May /70 – we felt about 130 distinct shocks and people generally felt considerable alarm - during that time we were wakened one night by a very violent shaking and a noise like Thunder -  I  jumped up and the motion of the house was so considerable that I had to steady myself as if on shipboard - and while striking a light - I thought the house was coming down - but it was only the top of the chimney falling down - that night many people were afraid to sleep in their houses -  and spent the rest of the night in the open air.

 - Earthquakes are [pa…tive] they do not extend over the whole country - during the time I have been in Japan several villages have been destroyed -  and many lives lost in consequence some hundreds of years ago native tradition says the great volcano called Fusiyama was thrown up in one night -  to a height of many thousand feet - it is not active now -   but is a conical shaped mountain some 14000 ft high - some years ago I made the ascent of Fusiyama it is so high that I had to sleep two nights on the mountain  one in going up and another in coming down - from the top I had a magnificent view of a great part of the country - it seemed like looking down on a huge map - The Japanese worship a spirit that is supposed to live in the mountain - and thousands of pilgrims repair yearly to it for this purpose there is a great crater or hole going down the centre of the mountain from the top - and a great dragon is supposed by the common people to live there - and cause the earthquakes -  when he moves his tail about.

– The people are intelligent and kindly in disposition. They are ruled over by an Emperor called the Mikado or Tenno which means the Heavenly Emperor - from a belief that exists in his divine origin - he is supposed to be descended from the Gods and until within the last 3 years was considered too holy to be seen by ordinary mortals.  Our Ambassador was the first Foreigner who had the honour of an audience with him - and at the first interviews.

- I believe the Emperor’s face was not allowed to be seen but only the lower part of his dress.  On that occasion an attempt was made to kill Sir H.P. our minister.  After the civil war 3 years ago the Mikado changed his residence from a town called Kioto to Yedo which is now the Imperial capital and seat of Govt. - I saw his procession on that occasion the Tenno was carried in a closed box called a norimon - and guarded by the Highest Nobles in the Land with their retainers the procession was several miles long and was an interesting sight as the nobles and soldiers wore the ancient court costume - and insignia that are fast being laid aside - for the ordinary dress of Europeans - abt 300 years ago the  great Jesuit missionary Francis Xavier and some of his followers found their way to Japan where they were well received by the People and the Govt and allowed freely to preach and teach the people.  The result being that thousands of coverts to Christianity were made many Roman Catholic priests and monks from Portugal and the Portuguese possessions in the east - followed after the early missionaries however and did not content themselves with missionary work but interfered with the Govt of the country - and tried to overthrow it - this brought upon the Portuguese and native converts the resentment of the Govt.

- The Portuguese were banished - and natives prohibited under penalty of death to become Christian  -  at this time abt 20000 native Christians were massacred  They were taken to an island called [Pa..enberg] and thrown from the top of a high rock into the sea - but still numbers kept the faith in secret and to this day there are thousands of native Christians the descendants of those converted by Xavier - even since I have been in Japan myself they have been persecuted by the Govt imprisoned and sent into exile - last year however on the strong remonstrance of the Foreign Minister to the Mikado’s court - the last of them were liberated and sent back to their homes - and now although perfect religious toleration does not yet exist – there is little chance of a renewal of the persecutions – and I have no doubt but in a few years there will be as perfect Liberty of conscience as in our own country already there are two native Presbyterian churches one in Yedo and the other in Yokohama.

  The Govt is rapidly – too much so some people think throwing off many of the old Japanese customs - even the very dress is changed at court to the ordinary pattern worn in European countries and the common people are fast following the example set them by their superiors - The Emperor now – instead of being kept shut up in his Palace - drives openly about the country much as our own Queen does attended by one or two of his officers of state and a small escort of cavalry soldiers.

- He takes an interest in the Govt of his country and in the ordinary affairs of his people he visits schools and other public institutions and he opened the first Railway abt two years ago - he receives his own officers and prominent men as well as Ambassadors consuls and other Foreigners of distinction who may visit his country -  On the 1st day of this year – I along with many other Foreign officials in the Japanese service had the honour of being presented to him in the Castle at Yedo -  The rooms in the Palace are plain very tastefully arranged  - and though not very high or large and roomy – and have a handsome appearance.

   Japanese Houses are nearly all built of wood – and paper - that is the partitions inside the houses and the windows are all [..uvable] and of paper stretched on a light – wood frame -  in summer during the hot weather they remove a number of the partitions and thus get a large open Hall with a pleasant cool atmosphere they have no fire places -  but use small boxes of bronze and iron in which they burn charcoal or wood.

   The boats in Japan are very like the old boats used in the Islands here many years ago - they are good sea boats and the Japs know well how to handle them - they are I suppose about the best Fisher men in the world. I have seen on a fine day the sails of fishing boats and others so thick on the Horizon that they appeared as one white mass - I have never except on the coast of China seen so many boats out together.

   The people have many curious customs that are fast disappearing before western civilization  - among others the women whenever they are married shave their eyebrows and blacken their teeth - at first sight to Europeans this gives them a horrible appearance - but it is surprising how soon the eye gets accustomed to such things  - The men shave the top of the head and the long hair behind is tied in a  round knot over the top of the head.  at their tea parties and social gatherings instead of dancing as we do - they have hired dancers - who dance and sing and play musical instruments while the guests look on - The dancers are girls specially educated and trained for this purpose - they are called Geishein.

   The most of the people are Budists and the Priests shave the whole head - and wear very handsome robes of silk not unlike those of a Roman Catholic priest. Their punishments for criminals are very cruel and [seven] crucifixion sawing down the middle burning alive boiling in oil being some of them - it is but fair however to state that within the past year all this has been done away with - and a more humane code of laws established - the people have a great desire for education - and hundreds of young Japanese are now studying in our colleges and in Europe and America - they are also establishing schools and colleges in their own country on the plans of those here - I myself have had charge of the erection of a very large college in Yedo -  it is specially for the study of engineering it is conducted by a staff of Scottish Professors - there are now between two and three hundred British in the service of the Govt of Japan - besides some other countries in Europe  and America - they had a curious custom which is still in some cases used - that is if a  man considered himself insulted in any way - or if a Govt officer made a mistake involving important result he was bound in honour to commit Hara kiri - which consists in cutting his stomach open with the short sword usually worn by gentlemen and so killing himself – by  doing this all disgrace was removed from his name and family -  and the family property retained by his children.

   The Japs are very self sufficient - [on the purchase] one of the first steamers they possessed - they thought they could manage her very well themselves - they who were to take charge of her went on board they asked the engineer a few questions - as how to get up steam and how to start the engines -  they then told all the Europeans to go on shore - and on being asked if they did not require any assistance at first they said no they could do it all themselves - so on getting quit of the Europeans they got up steam managed to start the engines and set off on a cruise - they got on very well till they were coming  back to anchor when they found that they could not stop her the only way they could think of being to put out the fires and stear round in a circle till the steam went down.

   When I first went to Japan I was engaged in putting up a light house on a small rock in the Pacific ocean - lying off the coast some miles - it was very wild work and I have been at times living on that rock alone with abt 300 native work  men

1874

(1) 1874 Freemasons at Yokohama

On Saturday last, was help the inauguration of the District Grand Lodge of Freemasonry at Yokohama, when the following officers were appointed.

R.W. District Grand Master— Chas. H. Dallas

W. Deputy—Wm. Bourne

W. District Grand Senior Warden— Major T.W. Kinder

Juniro Warde— A. Mitchell

Treasurer— E.J.D. Rothmund

Registrar—W.H. Freame

President of the District Board of general Purpose—W.m. A. Crane

District Grand Secretary——F. Pittman

Deacons——E. Wheeler, M.D. Drummond-Hay

Superintendent of Works——C.A. McVean

Grand Director of Ceremonies—— J.R. Black

Grand Organist——C. Heimann

Pursuivant——T. Wallave

Bros. Sands, of the Rising Sun Lodge, Kobe, and A. Weiller of the Nippon Lodge, Tokei, were elected Vice-Presicents of the District Board of General Purposes. The Grand Stewards have yet to be appointed.

After the ceremonies were over the brethren partook of a cold collation, followed by the loyal and other toasts usual on such occasions.

※マクヴェイン文書の中に、1871年3月付けのフリーメースン会員証Masonry Certificateが納められている。横浜ロッジは、駐横浜英国海軍中尉であったD.L.Boyleをグランド･マスターとして1865年に創設され、1873年にチャールズ･ダラスが二代目を引き継いだ。ダラスは東インド会社勤務の父のところに生まれ、頭脳明晰なことからイギリスの神学校で学んだ。宣教師にはならず、中国で鉱物の貿易をしようと東洋に渡ってきたという。おそらく、ヒュー・マセソンと何らかのつながりがあったと思われ、横浜で貿易商を始めた。すぐに大学南校の英語教師に採用され、その後山形の興譲館に移った。大学南校では高橋是清を教えた。他に、Thomas William Kinderがおり、マクヴェインと同じシビル･エンジニアであった。John Reddie Blackはジャーナリストで、”The Far East"誌の主宰者。

(2) 1874 ST. ANDREW’S DAY.

Grand Hotel, Yokohama.

TOASTS.

HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY THE QUEEN.

THE PRINCE OF WALES (AS DUKE OF ROTHESAY), THE PRINCESS OF WALES, AND THE REST OF THE ROYAL FAMILY.

The Army and Navy

The Diplomatic Service

The Pious Memory of St. Andrew.

The Land O’Cakes

The Emperor of Japan and the Land we Live in

The Lassies

Literature, Science, and Art, of Scotland

The Bench and the Bar

The Press

The Guests

The Chairman

1874 ST. ANDREW’S DAY

GRAND HOTEL, YOKOHAMA.

Bill of fare

DINNER

Caller Ou.

SOUPS.

Cock-a-leekie, Hotch Potch.

FISH

Cod’s Heed & Shoulders. Spey Saumont.

ENTREES

Sing’t Sheep’s Heed. Minch’ Collops.

Mutton-chops, wi’ chappit Taties.

Shepherd’s Pie. Noix de Veaux aux petits pois.

JOINTS.

Brisket of Beed, wi’ greens. Gigot of Mutton, wi’ needs.

Buddly Jock, wi’ dorty brie. Gusty Ham.

Roast Beef. Roast Saddle of Mutton.

HAGGIS.

CAME.

Pheasant, Snipe, Wild Duck.

VEGETABLE.

Taties, Smashed, Boiled, Chapati and Baked.

Bow-kail, Neeps, Peas, Carrots.

PASTRY.

Minch’d Pies, Carse o’Gowrie Aipples, Blin’ Jock.

Geen Tairt, Oat Cakes, Short Bread, Jellies, & c. & c.

1875

1876

(1) 1876, JAPAN [FROM THE SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE ALTA,]

YOKOHAMA, April 10th, 1876. - I send forward this small budget of news by the Belgic, which leaves to-morrow morning (April 11th) at daylight, a day later than advertised, owing to having encountered a strong contrary monsoon on her way hither from Hong kong, which caused her to make her passage longer by a day than was expected. However as she may look for good weather at this season in the Pacific, the company and her officers are looking forward to a quick passage to San Francisco.

The Gaelic, which left your port on the 16th of March, arrived here on the 5th instant, after a passage of 18 days, 17 hours and 20 minutes running time, which, as she experienced variable winds, is not bad.

FOREIGN OFFICERS LEAVING

The Japanese Government is losing some of its best foreign servants, and, much as it abuses them occasionally, its foreign servants have been its best friends hitherto. To them the country owes the moral and material progress in great measure, if not in whole, which she has made in late years. Among your visitors by this steamer is Lieutenant M. S. Day, U. S. N., who for some time served the Kaitikushi (Colonization Department), with credit to himself and profit to his employers. As his services were only lent by his own Government to that of Japan, and as the leave granted him by the former has now expired he returns to the service of his own country. A distinguished English engineer, Colin A. McNean, formerly Chief Surveyor of the Home Department, whose contract with the Government expired last year, also leaves Japan by the Belgic, en route for Europe. Certainly this Government has had some charlatans and mere adventurers, who had no quality save their “brass” to recommend them, among their foreign assistants and advisers ; but I am happy to say that these two gentlemen do not come within that category. They have done good work, and they leave many friends, both foreign and native, whose good wishes will accompany them in their future careers.

1893

(1) MARRIAGE BETWEEN J.H. Gubbins and Helen Brodie McVean

    A marriage has been arranged between Mr. John Harrington Gubbins, Second Secretary and Japanese Secretary of Her Majesty’s Legation in Japan, and Miss Helen Brodie McVean, eldest daughter of Mr. Colin A. McVean, Killiemore House, Pennyghael, Argyleshire.

4th April Marriages 1893

GUBBINS – MACVEAN - On the 4th inst. at the residence of the Misses Cowan, 11 Strathearn Place, Edinburgh, by the Rev Archibald Scott, D.D. John Harrington, second secretary, and Japanese secretary to H. B. M.’s Legation, Tokio, Japan, third surviving son of the late Martin Gubbins, Es., I.C.S. formerly Financial Commissioner of Oude, to Helen Brodie, eldest daughter of Colin MacVean, J.P., Killiemore House, Mull.

MULL. - The marriage of Mr. John Harrington Gubbins, of H.B.M’s Legation, Tokio, Japan, with Helen Brodie, eldest daughter of Mr Colin Alex. McVean, Killiemore House, Mull took place on the afternoon of the 4th inst., at 11 Strathearn Place, Edinburgh, the residence of the Misses Cowan, aunts of the bride. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. Archibald Scott, D.D., Edinburgh. The bride, who was given away by her father, wore a white satin dress trimmed with Honiton lace, a white tuille veil, and a pearl and emerald brooch, the gift of the bridegroom. She carried a bouquet of white orchids, lilac, and lilies of the valley. The bridesmaids were Miss McVean, Miss Mary McVean, Miss Flora McVean, sisters of the bride, and Miss Ella McVean, Miss Elspeth Watson, Miss Susan MacArthur, cousins of the bride. They wore white serge dresses trimmed with the McVean tartan, and pearl and chrystoprase brooches, the gift of the bridegroom. My Gubbins was attended by Mr. S. Tuke as best man. Later in the day Mr and Mrs Gubbins left for Devonshire. On going away the bride wore a pale green serge dress.

A WOMAN’S CEILIDH

The marriage of Miss Helen MacVean, Killiemore House, Mull, to Mr Gubbins of the British Legation, Tokio, Japan, will interest many of our Ceilidh who may be old enough to remember the grandfather of the bride, Rev. Mr. MacVean, the first Free Church minister of Iona. Mr MacVean was a man universally loved and respected in his day, and his memory still remains green in the affections of the people of Iona and Ross of Mull. At the time of the Disruption, Mr MacVean left the Established Church. His brother Colin - brother-in-law to Mr. N.B. MacKenzie, banker, Fort William - was for some time parish minister of Kilninver, and afterwards translated to Killin, where he died a few years ago. The father of the bride, Mr Colin MacVean, J.P., is one of the most popular men in Mull.

(2) JAPANESE ART IN KELVINGROVE MUSEUM, no-dated

   Recently, through the medium of Preceptor Macdonald and Mr Campbell Douglas, a loan collection of objects of Japanese art has been secured to the Kelvingrove Museum. The articles, which are of a very valuable description, are the property of Mr C.A. McVean, who spent eight years in engineering service in Japan, and during that time gradually brought together the collection with the artistic discrimination of a true connoisseur. As the collection is without doubt the finest representation of Japanese art which has ever been shown in Scotland and since the distinctive character of Japanese ornamentation has now made itself felt in the applied art of the Western World, the objects deserve close attention.

   The number of separate articles reaches well up to 1000, and may be classified under the heads of pottery and porcelain, enamels, lacquer work, bronzes and other metal work, arms and armour, carvings, and book and wall decorations. Almost without exception, the specimens belong to the period of Japanese art manufacture prior to the beginning of the European demand. They consequently are characterised by a carefulness of finish and honesty of treatment which unfortunately does not belong to nine-tenths of what now reaches the market as Japanese work, for these clever Orientals show their aptitude to master European ideas in nothing more than in the singular celerity with which , when the demand arose, they were able to turn out Brummagem art to meet the wants of Western collectors.

   Among the specimens of pottery and porcelain there are examples of a high class of all the chief varieties of the ceramic manufactures of Japan. The principal kind of pottery is the Satsuma ware, so named from the province in which it is manufactured. This ware is characterised by a warm, yellowish tint in the glaze, which is generally covered with a fine network of cracks, and its favourite ornamentation consists of painted birds and flowers, the crysanthemum being an almost invariable decoration. Awata pottery is very similar in character and decoration to the Satsuma, but the third leading kind shown, Banko ware, has an unglazed body, which is frequently relieved with ornaments in enamel colours. Some of the small Banko teapots in Mr McVean’s collection are veritable triumphs of the potter’s art. The principal kinds of porcelain are distinguished as Hizen, Kizota, and Kaga wares. The Hizen, generally having ornaments in blue, was early introduced into Europe by the Dutch, who for a long period enjoyed an exclusive privilege of a certain amount of commercial intercourse with the Japanese. Kaga porcelain is distinguished by bold and striking ornamentation, in which a brilliant red ground, with designs outlined in gold, occupies a prominent place.

   Lacquer work is a department of applied art in which the Japanese are without competitors and some of Mr McVean’s specimens well illustrate the merits of this peculiar style of workmanship. The varieties of lacquer work produced by the Japanese, and the objects to which it is applied - from minute articles of jewellery to the decoration of the walls of houses - are beyond enumeration. The gold lacquer, inlaid mother-of-pearl lacquer, and the carved lacquer in Mr McVean’s collection are especially worthy of notice. The bronzes and other metal work show that in intricate castings the Japanese are behind no nation in the world ; while in the inlaying of metals with metals they are almost alone in excellence. Even the common tea kettles of the country and their other hollow ware receive artistic attention, as may be seen in the cases. For the purpose of casting the Japanese use several copper alloys peculiar to themselves. The book and wall decorations show at once great technical skill and boldness of handling on the part of the native artists, and in the drawing of birds and flowers, which figure prominently in nearly all Japanese decorations, the accuracy and distinctness of detail are truly wonderful. The whole collection indeed must specially commend itself to all who either professionally or as amateurs are interested in the applications of art, while it is well fitted to instil into the community at large a high respect for the ability and skill of the singular nation which, jealously shutting itself up, developed a civilisation and an art entirely peculiar to itself, but which it is now prepared to throw to the winds with little regard to “historical continuity.”

Masonry in Japan 1864–1941 (Source: The Skirret Library)