Mumbles Hill House - formerly Somerset House by Jan McKechnie
More: Mumbles Head
In 1991, Mumbles Hill was declared a Local Nature Reserve (photo) to protect its value for wildlife and to enable more people to enjoy the area. The reserve has a variety of natural habitats including maritime heath, limestone, grassland, scrub and woodland. Its migratory birds include garden warblers, house martins and swallows, while many resident bird species such as skylark, green woodpecker and jay are also seen.
On top of the Mumbles Hill in the middle of this nature reserve, is a large old house now known as Mumbles Hill House (formerly known as Somerset House) which has arguably the finest views in the Gower!
Mumbles Hill House
It has undergone a number of ‘reincarnations’ over the 150 plus years since it was built, having been used for many different purposes. From pub to market garden, to shop and yard, to gentleman’s residence to army billet, flats, guest house, hotel, nursing home and now back to a private residence. During that time it’s been more than doubled in size ‘out the way’. The ceilings have been raised and an attic floor added ‘up the way’. Extensions have been built and internally, it’s been knocked about to the extent that there are very few original internal walls left. In between times it has been abandoned to the elements on a number of occasions. Oh and it has also lost its roof once to a fire!
Originally built as a public house by local victualler, David Pugh, a grand opening was advertised in The Cambrian News on 14th December 1849.
A House-Warming Dinner will take place at the SOMERSET HOUSE Mumbles (Mr David Pugh’s) on Thursday December 20th 1849. Tickets 1s 6d each. To commence at two o’clock.”
It appears however that the locals were not prepared to climb the steep hill ‘to sup regularly at Somerset House’, because less than a year later on 15th November a notice in The Cambrian announced
For Sale: The newly erected and well built PUBLIC HOUSE called SOMERSET HOUSE with about three acres of land situated on the summit of Mumbles Hill, commanding extensive views of the Bristol Channel and the bay of Swansea and very convenient for sea bathing at all times of the tide … Sale will take place on the premises at one o’clock on Monday 2nd December.
But the Public House was not sold and we believe lay empty, as in June the next year The Cambrian carried the following story.
Mumbles. Some evil disposed person, on the night of Tuesday last, attacked Somerset House and broke the windows by throwing stones. A reward has been offered on the subject.
Vandalism in 1851! That same month, Somerset House was advertised ‘To Let’. But again, it would seem that there were no takers. In 1852 David Pugh married, acquired five step-children and later emigrated to Australia. By this time John Pugh (possibly a relative) was the license holder.
Lost Pubs of Mumbles
The following rhyme was composed by ‘An Old Wayfarer’ on Mumbles Hill in July 1853, on reaching a house conspicuously inscribed “JOHN PUGH, LICENSED TO SELL BEER AND PORTER” but which proved to be uninhabited:
Some speculative Pugh came up this hill to brew, and fill the jackets blue with excellent cwrw,
At a welcome sea “Halloo!” nor did the man beshrew jerkins of any hue, he might with ale imbue- but it seems it wouldn’t do.
Doubtless too well he knew, when bills were falling due, a lanky purse he’d rue;
So wisely sought anew some less exalted mew, where money might accrue-
For when the cold winds blew, the ale- imbibing crew this bleak hill did eschew;
Thus customers were few- and worse and worse it grew, as fewer jugs he drew;
Till off at last he flew, most likely in a stew, and bade the hill adieu.
But I perhaps, askew, his fancied course pursue, which may’nt be over true- as I’ve no other clue than this blank house of Pugh, with its promise in my view of “Beer & Porter” too-
Though a vacant room or two, that sunbeams wander through, and nought save evening dew, that barely wets my shoe, is here for me and you,
O much be-rhymed John Pugh!
October 1852 saw The Cambrian offering Somerset House to be sold at auction and in December 1853 the property was again advertised to let.
From 1860-1865, Tom Lloyd was the licensee. He became known as Tom the Fiddler and did well in the summer, holding dances on the front lawn. Unfortunately, he had a passion for strong drink and could not keep within the law. He was convicted for selling beer on Sundays and had to give up Somerset House. When he died in 1890 at 70 years of age The Cambrian reported the ‘Death of a notorious Welsh fiddler, a remarkable local career’.
By 1872 the property had become a house and between 1875 and 1890 there was also a shop, with a yard added later. During the 1880s and for much of the 1890s a large family from Devon had moved in. George Cunningham was a self-employed market gardener who lived with his wife Ann, three daughters and two sons. They must have liked it because they stayed for many years.
From 1919, Mr F. Le Boulanger, who many Mumbles older residents still remember, lived there. A notable Mumbles figure, he was a ship-owner, ship-broker and coal exporter.
Oystermouth Castle and All Saints' Church, viewed from the west of Mumbles Hill
A friend of mine, Miss Hill in Mumbles, remembers her brother-in-law Will Eynon, who lived in one of the cottages at Dickslade all his life. He told how, as a boy, he used to meet Mr Le Boulanger coming down the hill from his house each morning and would carry his ‘Gladstone’ down the steps at Dickslade and over to the Mumbles Train, on which he travelled each morning to travel to his office in Swansea. When he returned at night, Will would carry his ‘Gladstone’ back up the steps and receive a penny for his help. Mr le Boulanger was also secretary of the Mumbles Lifeboat and was still living in Somerset House in 1925. We’re not sure when he left or why, or if another family moved in after him before the outbreak of war. Certainly in 1950 ‘the estate’ of the, by this time deceased Mr le Boulanger, still owned some of the land that had originally belonged to Somerset House.
But by 1939, the house was owned by the Secretary of State for War. a large rectangular extension was built across the whole of the front of the house with a flat roof terrace giving extraordinary views over the Bristol Channel, along the Gower and beyond Swansea Bay towards St. Donats. (I have been unable to find a photograph of Somerset House prior to this addition—if anyone has one that I could copy, I would be grateful to hear from them. Throughout the war it was an army billet. There were army huts, concrete bunkers, and Ack Ack guns on the hill and you can still see the foundation remains amongst the brambles. More: The Guns of Mumbles Head After the war, Somerset House was left empty and deteriorating throughout the 1950s and into the 1960s, with only the local children, (myself included), bravely venturing in, to look around, always hoping not to bump into ‘The Grey Lady’ reputed to haunt the house—a tale put about to dissuade us from playing there I suspect !
I remember a charming feeling of decayed elegance in the house. An attractive layout with lots of natural wood (mostly rotten, of course) on the floors, a broad dog-leg staircase, long french windows, lovely old doors, wooden balconies at ground and first floor levels on two sides of the building and sunshine drifting into every room. It had obviously been a superb ‘gentleman’s residence’ before the war.
In 1963, ‘the Secretary of State for War’ finally ceased to be on the title deeds of Somerset House. A Mr Gethin Basset-Morgan obtained planning approval to build a large rectangular extension across the whole of the front of the house with a flat roof terrace giving extraordinary views over the channel, along the Gower and over to Nash Point. I’ve been unable to find a photograph of Somerset House prior to this addition—if anyone has one that I could copy, I would be grateful to hear from them. (Please, see my details at end of article.) Mr Morgan also obtained permission to convert the house into four flats. By 1964, the Betteridge family had moved in to rent the only completed downstairs flat and again, they must have liked it as they lived there until May 1983, when the house was sold again with the remaining three flats never having been done.
Meanwhile new owners in the 1970s Mr & Mrs Evans, applied for and received permission for change of use to a guest house with a private bar and restaurant. In 1980, planning approval for 20 touring caravans and toilet block in the grounds of Somerset House Hotel was refused.
Mumbles Hill House is on the lower centre right
The Estate Agent’s brochure of 1983, offering the house for sale, tells us that there was a licensed bar in the Dining room, a self contained flat, (presumably the one rented by the Betteridges) and many bedrooms with either coloured wash hand basins, en-suite showers and en-suite bath-rooms. The house was ‘decorated throughout to a very high degree of specification’.In August 1983 another change of use was granted, this time to a ‘Residential Nursing Home for the Elderly,’ But on December 15th 1984, The Evening Post carried a front-page story reporting the closure of Somerset House Nursing home on Mumbles Hill. Concerned about aspects of the management, the Health Authority had deregistered it forcing closure.
In 1987, Somerset House became Bethel Court Nursing Home, with yet more alterations and extensions being applied for and granted in 1988. Some were completed, some were not, but by far the biggest alterations applied for were in January 1993. Planning approval was given for a gigantic development on all fur sides of the house—15 additional bedrooms, plus many wc’s bath-rooms store rooms, extended lounge and dining facilities etc. An extract from the planning document reads:
First and second floor south side extension, three storey west side extension, ground floor east side extension, two storey and single storey north side extension !”
This, in a local nature reserve set in Britain’s first area of outstanding natural beauty and despite 17 letters of objection from neighbours! Had this major development gone ahead, this huge institution on top of the Mumbles Hill would have been lost as a ‘gentleman’s’ residence’ for ever, perhaps lying empty again at a later date as people wondered what to do with it. Very thankfully it didn’t happen. By 1998, this large property was in urgent need of repair and updating again, and the owners were struggling with family illness. Outline planning consent to build three detached houses in the grounds had been refused in 1997 and they were ready to move on.
And this is where we come in! We moved into an empty Bethel Court Nursing Home on 11 August 1999—the day of the eclipse. (Is this an omen?) The house by now was totally devoid of any charm or elegance. Perhaps current fire regulations had helped to create the functional institution that awaited us. Underneath the brown floral carpets covering most of the ground- floor was concrete throughout! Above the suspended ceiling tiles were electricity wires draped everywhere, patched plaster ceilings and a general air of musty damp abounded. Gone were the coloured wash hand basins and en-suite shower rooms! Gone were the chimneys and fire-places! Gone were the deep skirting boards and appropriate architraves! Gone were the nice old wooden doors and the dog-leg staircase! And outside was mostly a jungle!
We took on a lump of a house in poor repair with damp penetrating from above and from various sides through some cracked and hollow rendering! Around nine white loos, umpteen white wash hand basins (whatever happened to the en-suites and the pampas and avocado basins of just 15 years ago? Where were all the french windows onto the sun terrace?) Not to mention those endless brown floral carpets and more wood-chip wallpaper than I’ve seen since the 1960s! Even the plumbing was ropey, with pipes all over the place! The one redeeming feature was the attic which had been converted into a modern separate ‘owners’ flat with more stunning views.
Mumbles Hill House, after many years work
Needless to say we love it here! We are repairing and restoring the building and endeavouring with lots of natural woods, stone and terracotta to reinstall the features, grace and ambience this house once had. Our wonderfully light and sunny home is full of good ‘vibes’ with not a ‘grey lady’ in sight. (Our three dogs and three cats have assured us all that we are ghostless!) If we ever think we’re finished inside—well there’s always the ‘jungle’ awaiting.
Oh! and by the way…about the house name. We took the decision upon our arrival to change the name from ‘Bethel Court’ to ‘Mumbles Hill House’. Its original name of ‘Somerset House’ was not an option … it’s got 13 letters !!!
Looking back over the years, it seems that when families have lived here they have thrived, but those who have tried to run businesses here have not fared so well. We feel that we are extremely fortunate to be living in this uniquely situated lovely ‘gentleman’s’ residence . . . and we will not be opening a pub!
P.S. I believe there may have been a cellar here until the renovations of the 1960s’, and I fancy excavating! Does anyone know for sure if there was a cellar and if so where the entrance was and does anyone have a photograph of the house taken prior to 1960 ?
Mumbles Hill Local Nature Reserve