Mari Lwyd - a 'skull in the ribbons of a bride' by Beverley Rogers

Mari Lwyd - a ‘skull in the ribbons of a bride’ [1]

by Beverly Rogers

As we journey into Midwinter and the darkest months of the Welsh year, the Mari Lwyd - one of Wales’ most unusual traditions – can be seen snapping its jaw.

The first time you encounter a Mari Lwyd (Y Fari Lwyd) the image tends to stay in your memory. A bleached horse’s skull with glass baubles for eyes, a white sheet used as a veil and its head bedecked with ribbons, bells, holly and ivy - the apparition sounds like it should be the stuff of Halloween, but it is in fact a tradition carried out between Christmas Day and Twelfth Night in Wales.

A Mari Lwyd and her entourage at a venue in Mumbles

Source: ‘West Glamorgan Archive Service’

The horses’ skull is attached to a pole, which is held by a person inside it, shrouded from view by the white sheet. The handler controls the character's mischievous nature, often snapping its hinged bony jaw in play at passers-by. A team of gaily dressed individuals usually accompanies the horse, and in the style of a Punch and Judy sketch, attempt to enter the local buildings in the village requesting entry via the medium of song (pwnco). One person will lead the horse, whilst others such as a jester (Merryman), a sergeant and a Lady, accompany it. A battle of verses (and wits) between the Mari team and the householders – who consistently deny them entry with various excuses in the form of insults and challenges – continues until the householders eventually relent or run out of excuses. It can often last well into the night. The Mari Lwyd is then allowed to enter the house and the team is given food and drink, where the Mari continues to be mischievous, trying to steal things and chase people she takes a liking to.

Images: B. Rogers

In fact the custom seems to have been particularly prevalent in the south of Wales and there is a unique example recorded from Gower, which describes the head as being kept buried throughout the year, only being dug up for use during the Christmas season. Closer to home, an article written by Iorwerth Peate in 1935 mentions a Mari Lwyd being paraded around Mumbles on Christmas Eve of 1934, accompanied by twelve singers.[2]

The origins of the custom, which is used to mark the passing of the dark days of midwinter, aren’t clear, however the entering of the Mari into the house was once believed to confer good luck on the household. The first record of the Mari being performed was in 1800 when J. Evans wrote about it in his A Tour through Parts of North Wales. Although the book itself was focused on North Wales, the chapter in which the Mari Lwyd was discussed was about the language and customs of Wales on a more generally basis.

Mari Lwyd, Sharper by the Marjorie Bowden family
Mari Lwyd c1960
Mari Lwyd at Mumbles Market event

As, however, with many folklore practices from earlier times, the Mari Lwyd died away in various parts of Wales as social conditions changed, so that by the twentieth century the sight of a white, decorated skull at the window at Christmastime became a rare sight. It has however experienced resurgence in interest and performances can now be found at a variety of places including St Fagan’s Museum of Life, the Gower Heritage Centre and at Llangynwyd near Maesteg.

Acknowledgements

[1] From the Vernon Watkins’ poem Ballad of the Mari Lwyd.

[2] Peate, Iorwerth C. (1935) "A Welsh Wassail-Bowl: With a Note on the Mari Lwyd". Man. 35: 81–82.

Previously Published in Mumbles Times, Nov/Dec 2020

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