1. Conduct an assessment 

• Determine which wall and ceiling assemblies in the garage are attached to the home’s living areas 

• Inspect those assemblies for any cracks, holes, gaps, penetrations, or deterioration 

2. Repair holes 

• Repair holes in pressure boundary ceilings or walls with sheetrock or plywood .

• Seal to ensure a continuous air barrier. 

3. Seal cracks 

• Use caulk or foam to seal any cracks or gaps in walls and ceiling. 

• Sealants (e.g., caulk, fire-retardant caulk, fire-rated spray foam, etc.) should be compatible with all adjoining surfaces and meet the fire and air barrier specifications according to code. 

• Areas may include cracks between mud sill, rim joists, subfloors, and bottom of gypsum board.

4. Penetration 

• All lighting fixtures, wiring, plumbing, venting, ducting, and gas piping penetrations will be sealed 

5. Ductwork 

• All joints and connections in ductwork will be fastened, sealed and insulated    

• For more detail see "Air Seal Duct" & "Duct insulation" detail in this field guide

6. Garage to house door 

• Weather stripping, door sweep, and threshold will be installed as needed to stop air leakage. 

7. Client education 

• Occupant will be educated on need to keep door from garage to house closed.

• Educated to not warm up vehicles or use any gas engine appliances or grills in the garage, even if the main door is left open. 

8. Worst Case Draft Test 

• Conduct a Worst Case Draft Test to verify Category I, II and III appliances are venting safely before leaving home for the day. 

• Testing shall be recorded using the WAP Worst Case Draft Test from. 

9. Target/Goal 

• Follow the work order to complete this measure. 

• A difference of 50 pascals of pressure with reference to the house is the target pressure for this measure up to the point that your budget has been expended.