The art of the Climb Prospectus

The climb prospectus is an important tool when preparing for a climb for both the leader and for the team members. By knowing what to expect, including the physical and technical demands, climb participants are informed on how they need to prepare.

The online scheduler generates a prospectus for each climb. You can also take advantage of the more than 100 prospectus templates that are available on the Google drive, and gear list templates, to create your own prospectus.  This includes a handy carpooling and group gear template.

Regardless of the method you use, you are responsible for adding activity specific information and details for your climb.  It is the responsibility of the climb leader to ensure that the information is accurate and current.

The climb leader should direct the climbers to leave a copy of/link to the prospectus with their emergency contact. 

Required Prospectus Content

Climbing Committee policy requires that the following data must be included in every climb prospectus:

1. Name of the summit 

2. Elevation 

3. Route to be attempted 

4. Date of the climb

5. Mazamas Climb Grade 

• Mazamas  A, B, C, D, or E and any technical route ratings. 

• Include route specific information such as 4th class scramble or 5.6 crack climbing.

6. Description of the route and approach, along with any comments on specific difficulties anticipated and skills required. 

• Example: On Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. Shuksan, you might state:

“The route will go through the chimneys (over 1000' elevation gain) without setting up protection, and there is significant exposure. This route requires confident 4th class climbing”. 

7. The following information, which includes Mazama climbing regulations, must be included in every prospectus:

• In case of an accident, illness, or other incapacity, climbers are expected to pay their own medical or evacuation expenses whether or not they specifically authorized them. 

• No one will be permitted on the climb who has taken or used substances, including medication, which impairs performance or judgment.

• Pets, alcohol, or firearms are not permitted on climbs. Media devices may be brought along but earbuds or headphones must be used and NO media device can be used while hiking or climbing.

• Climbers shall carry out all that they carry in.

• Climbers 17 years of age or under must furnish the climb leader with a written parental or guardian permission slip.

• On any Mazama climb, climbers 14 years of age or under must be accompanied on the climb by an adult who is responsible for them (the "guardian").  If that minor needs to descend or leave the climbing party, their guardian shall be required to remain with or descend with the minor. On climbs not scheduled as Family Climbs, neither the leader nor the assistant leader of any climb shall be the guardian for a climber 14 years of age or younger. If the guardian descends, all climbers for whom he/she is responsible shall be required to descend as well.

For climbs that are organized as Family Climbs please refer to the Mazamas age requirement policy, https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0wIkS28gYTZTDZqc3c3cjc1dnM/view .

8. Required equipment.

• A general gear list is provided with each prospectus template as a starting point.  

• Separate and alternative gear list templates tuned to the type of climb are here. 

• Edit the gear list to filter down, and detail the equipment appropriate for the specific climb.

9. Driving directions, estimated times, mileage, and maps. 

• Directions would normally be given from Portland. Provide specific trailhead or back road directions.

• Every participant should carry a useful map of the route area.  An actual map of the route is even better.

10. Suggested driver donations @ $0.14 per mile, with a maximum of 3 paying passengers per car.  

11. List of the names, email addresses, and phone numbers of all party members.  You can include the general area where each person lives, such as NE Portland, Gresham, or Tigard, to help with carpooling.  Or reference a carpool spreadsheet that climbers can edit.

12. An emergency contact and phone number for each party member.

13. Include the name and telephone number of the primary emergency contact in the prospectus, and make sure all climbers and their emergency contacts are aware of who this is (i.e. they have a copy of the prospectus and know where to find the central contact info).  Instructions for the emergency contact.

14.  Make sure your prospectus has your estimated return-to-communication time and call-for-assistance time, your emergency contact person knows these, and has a copy of the prospectus.

Optional helpful content

What else can be put into the prospectus?

History

• Who climbed the peak the first time? When? 

• Is there a Native American name? Are there any stories or legends about peak? 

• In general, what things can you find out to make this more fun and informative.

Information

• Good sources are the Mazama Library, the prospectus archives, calling leaders that have led the peak/route previously, online resources such as Mountain Project, Summit Post or Cascade Climbers, and of course the Beckey guides. 

• Don't just look at the specific peak, read through the description of the area.

Places of interest and good restaurants

• This can be the fun part of the investigation. Are there minor detours that are of historical interest?

Facilities

• What are conditions like at the trailhead? Is vandalism a possibility?   Is a parking permit needed?

• If you are car camping, are there showers and is there potable water available?

• If you are packing in, what is the proposed camp site like?  Tents or bivvies?

Group Events

• Post-climb dinner plans or potlucks are always fun and give time for recalling events of the climb.