You are ready to lead the climb! Now is when your carefully honed leading skills come into play.
Helpful pre-climb meeting tips (Google doc)
The climb officially begins when you leave the trailhead. The climb leader shall have responsibility for, and complete authority over, the climb and climbing team from trailhead to trailhead. The leader may designate an assistant to take control on the approach or on the hike out to the trailhead.
Climb leaders must always ensure that, on the mountain or route, they are in control of both “ends” of the climbing team, either directly, or through the assistant, or a designated team member. Either the leader or the assistant should be the last person off the mountain.
A climb leader does not need to gain the summit for a climb to be official. The assistant (including provisional leaders and LD participants) can complete the route in lieu of the climb leader, provided that completing the route is within the skill level of the assistant. The climb leader must be in the immediate vicinity, within sight, able to communicate with the assistant verbally, and able to reassume leading the climb if necessary.
If the climb leader is unable to continue participating in the climb, the climb must be halted and turned around unless the climb team includes another qualified climb leader who assumes the leadership role. If that climb leader was the assistant, another qualified assistant must be identified, or the climb must turn back. This new climb leader assumes all responsibility for the climb, including administrative and incident related tasks.
Additional leadership responsibilities:
Leaders shall ensure that all persons signing up for a climb are aware of the degree of risk. Include this information in the prospectus for the climb.
Leaders shall set reasonable time schedules and exercise sound judgment in setting team size limits.
The necessity for one member of a climbing team to turn back may be sufficient reason to turn back the entire team. The leader shall judge each situation on its own merit.
Helmets are required in any situation in which there is danger of falling rock, ice, or other debris, rope team travel, and when ice axes are being used.
If a route change becomes necessary, the new route may not be more difficult than the original route. Clearly communicate the route change with your climb team.
On all climbs, that are not organized as Family Climbs, neither the leader nor the assistant leader of any climb shall be the responsible adult for a climber 14 years of age or younger. Please refer to the Mazamas Age Requirements policy for climbs organized as Family Climbs.