Fixed Lines

Mazama Fixed Line Use Guidelines

To improve safety, the Mazamas have adopted new fixed line guidelines, in education programs and on climbs.  TODO: clarify leader latitude in exercising judgment on applying these guidelines to specific climbing situations.

• Prusik harness connection must be via a triple-action locker (or perhaps equivalent secure locker such as the new dual-gate lockers, or two lockers opposite and opposed)  (TODO - approve these or other alternatives)

• Two connections for redundancy: use your personal pro leash clipped to the fixed line with a locker

• One climber per section: only one active climber per open section of a fixed line.

• Manageable Prusik tending: climbers must be able to tend their tethers with both hands every 1-2 feet.

New considerations for applying fixed lines in course curriculum and in the field

• Terrain application:   Fixed lines can be used to add security in a situation where falling is unlikely, but the consequences of falling are serious and should be avoided. Appropriate terrain generally includes 3rd and 4th-class rock and moderate snow slopes. Fixed lines may also be used to protect occasional short steps of low-5th-class or steep snow and ice terrain, assuming that climbers are still able to manage their connection to the rope comfortably while moving through any difficulties.

• Team size: best for larger parties.  2-6 members, consider a standard belay, e.g. cycling a rope's mid-tie-in up and down the pitch

• Climber skill level: Climbers should be comfortable enough at the grade to also manage their connection.

Fixed Lines White Paper (Summer 2021)

TODO add ICS mini-lesson on fixed lines

TODO add BCEP fixed line notes

Application Examples

Mt. Thielsen

4th-class terrain, blocky, low angle.  Use fixed line.

Photo: Mountain Project