Climb Grade Definitions

Mazama climbing grades are based on the level of skill required by a climber to safely complete the route. These ratings begin with A-level climbs that do not require roped climbing, to the most exposed and difficult E-level climbs.

A Climbs

Off-trail hiking, ice axe & crampon use on moderately steep snow slopes, and self-arrest.

Examples: St. Helens all routes, Mt. Adams Southside, South Sister South Side, Mt. Ruth, Mt. Elinor, Diamond Peak, Old Snowy.

B Climbs

Off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep snow slopes, self-arrest, glacier travel, 4th class scrambling or low 5th class rock climbing.

Examples: Mt. Hood South Side & West Crater, South Sister Prouty Glacier, Mt. Shasta Avalanche Gulch, Mt. Stuart Cascadian Couloir, Broken Top, Mt. Thielsen.

C Climbs

Off-trail hiking, ice axe and crampon use on moderately steep snow slopes, self-arrest, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills, belaying, rappelling, and low to mid-5th class rock climbing.

Examples: Mt Washington (OR) North Ridge, Mt. Hood Sunshine, Mt. Baker Coleman - Deming, Ingalls Peak, Glacier Peak, Mt. Jefferson South Ridge, North Sister.

D Climbs

Requirements may include ice axe and crampon use on steep snow and ice slopes, glacier travel and crevasse rescue, self-arrest, belaying, rappelling, and 5th class rock climbing.

Examples: Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier; Mt. Hood, Reid/Sandy; Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier; Mt Rainier Kautz glacier, Mt Baker North Ridge; Mt. Stuart West Ridge; Prusik Peak West Ridge; Liberty Bell, Beckey Route.

E Climbs

5th-class technical routes are the same as D, but also requires total self- sufficiency/proficiency using technical skills under high exposure, sharing high angle leads, setting protection/anchors.  Note, the scheduling tool will not accept E designations.  When scheduling use the D designation and clarify the climb grade as E in the activity notes.

Winter Climb grades

This is important.  A, B, C, and D climbs all increase one grade for winter conditions. In the winter a Mt. Hood South Side climb is a “C” climb.  If you are an “A” or “C” level leader your grade rating applies to these increased grades.  Keep in mind that you will need a Climbing Committee waiver to lead a climb that is beyond your leading grade due to the winter increase in grades.  The CL also needs to factor in this increased climb grade in selecting the climb team size and members.  For example, a recent BCEP, FM101, or IAC graduate likely wouldn’t be qualified.  Winter is defined as November 1st through April 30th.

Winter Equipment Requirements

• Avalanche transceivers shall be worn by all climbers during a Mazama winter climb. Mazamas transceivers are not provided with batteries. Team members using Mazamas transceivers must provide operating batteries. 

• The leader must confirm that the team has one shovel and one probe for every two climbers. The leader may provide Mazamas shovels and avalanche probes to climb team members as needed and as equipment inventory allows.  If there is a shortage of equipment, private equipment will be needed to meet this condition.