Overland Party at Port Lincoln

Having travelled the three sides of the triangle forming Eyre Peninsula, Eyre felt qualified to give an opinion of the country, and he wrote : "Altogether we passed this day through a considerable tract of country containing much land that is well adapted for sheep or cattle, and with a fair proportion suitable for agriculture. It is by far the best portion of the available country in the Port Lincoln peninsula, and I could not help regretting it should be so limited in extent. I had now travelled all the three sides of the triangle, and had obtained extensive views from various heights along each of these lines of route ; I had crossed from Port Lincoln to Streaky Bay, from Streaky Bay to the head of Spencer's Gulf, and from the head of Spencer's Gulf down to Port Lincoln again. In the course of these journeys, I had spared no toil nor exertion, to make my examination as complete and useful as possible, though my labors were not rewarded by commensurate success. The great mass of the peninsula is barren, arid and worthless ; and although Port Lincoln possesses a beautiful, secure and capacious harbour, with a convenient and pretty site for a town, and immediately contiguous to which there exists some extent of fine and fertile soil, with several good grassy patches beyond ; yet it can never become a large or important place, in consequence of its complete isolation, except by water, from every other, and the limited nature of its resources." 

"For one or two large stock-holders who wish to secure good grazing ground, and be apart from others, it might answer well, but even they would ordinarily labour under difficulties and disadvantages which would make their situations not at all desirable." 

Eyre had invested money in the Port Lincoln Special Survey, purchasing water frontages Nos. 11, 127 and 156 from W. .Slater and R. Beevor, who had bought part of J. M. Phillipson's interest in the association (vide certificates 63 and 64 ; see page 8 and 47 in the history of the Port Lincoln Special Survey). 

EYRE'S BITTERNESS 

It cannot be said whether the following remarks were written at the time of arrival at Port Lincoln or when he wrote his book, probably five years later, but in any case he must have felt very sore about his Port Lincoln land transaction, to have written as he did. The reports of the short explorations had been very fair, and reading them now one cannot find much to complain about ; the Tod River country was spoken highly of and the heath country out towards Coffin's Bay was decried, and until Eyre arrived on the scene that was all that was known. The harbor is still beautiful and commodious, and fulfills all that was said about it. Probably exception may be taken to T. Horton James's very laudatory efforts on Port Lincoln's behalf, and his disparagement of Adelaide and Port Adelaide but it is most likely, that as far as South Australian investors were concerned, the speculations at Port Lincoln were well in evidence, before James's book arrived in Adelaide. The Colonisation Commissioners were aware that reports regarding the Peninsula were not favorable, for under date January 8, 1840, but probably not completed until July 28, 1849, in their fourth and final report the commissioners said : " The accounts which we have received respecting the quality of the soil in the neighborhood of the magnificent harbour of Port Lincoln, where two special surveys have also been taken are contradictory." 

However, here are Eyre's morbid speculations : "Purchased in the days of wild and foolish speculation, and when a rage existed for buying land and laying out townships, no place has been more misrepresented or misunderstood than Port Lincoln. Many gross and glaring misstatements have been put forth of its character and capabilities, by those who were actuated by interested motives and many unintentional misrepresentations have been made and perpetuated by others, whose judgment or information has led them into error, so that the public generally, and especially the English public, have had no means of discriminating between the widely conflicting accounts that have been given."

"DEPRIVED OF MERITS" 

"Amongst the persons from whom this small settlement has suffered disparagement there are none perhaps more blameable than those who have put forth statements which ascribe to it advantages and qualities that it does not possess ; for just in proportions as the expectations of intending settlers have been raised by exaggeration or untruths has been their disappointment and disgust, when the facts themselves have stared them in the face."

"The day of hallucination has now passed away, but out of the reaction which has succeeded it has arisen a disposition to deprive Port Lincoln of ever the merits to which it has a legitimate claim, and which would have been far more likely appreciated if the previous misstatements and con sequent disappointments , had not induced a feeling of distrust not easily effaced."

 Towards evening of October 2, 1840, Eyre and his party came under the range 'contiguous' to the township. In one of the valleys leading from these hills, on their west side, they found a small spring of good water, and with grass of luxuriant growth, making an ideal place for a temporary camp site, until such time as supplies could be procured, and they were ready to move again. This location was 1½ miles from the hut where Frank Hawson was speared by the blacks. With this data probably some reader may be able to say where the spot is. There Eyre lived until October 24, when the party made a forward movement, but before that date, much had to be done and much happened. 

Digressing for a moment, we have no record of Baxter's doings, or troubles, if any, in crossing over to Streaky Bay. We only know he got across safely and was awaiting Eyre's arrival. He has not been forgotten, although he appears to have dropped out of the narration until the party was reunited on November 3. 

SHORTAGE OF SUPPLIES

On October 3, Eyre and Scott walk ed across the range into the township and met Doctor Harvey, the only Government official there at the moment. No supplies were available; there were some foreign whalers in the port, but Eyre considered that they would not have the goods he required. No coasting boats were in the harbor to make a trip to Adelaide, and flour was the only item procurable, and that from an emergency stock kept at Port Lincoln. This was offered subject to replacement at the first opportunity. 

Eyre was in a dilemma, at that time there seemed to be no solution. They took a walk around the town, and Eyre noted many neat cottages and other improvements made since August, 1839. The population had decreased and many cottages were empty. According to Eyre those who had remained were principally persons who had lost everything and could not get away, or who had invested their all and would not sacrifice their property. The one man who was doing well was the innkeeper, the traffic with the whalers keeping him busy. 

The stockholders, it was said, who ought to have succeeded best, were getting dissatisfied at the many disadvantages and the smallness of the community around, and everything wore a gloomy aspect. 

Sunday, October 4, found Eyre and Scott at divine service, prayers being read by Dr. Harvey. What a wonderful man he was, ever ready to fill any position required filling ! After service the wayfarers had dinner with the doctor, and in the afternoon they all walked out to the ' lagoon' west of Port Lincoln and had tea with Eyre at the camp. There the versatile Dr. Harvey offered to put a temporary hatch on his boat and send it to Port Adelaide for the sum of £10. Eyre jumped at the offer, and Scott volunteered to act as super-cargo. 

The 5th and 6th were occupied with preparation for the trip. On the latter day Mr. Smith took Scott out to Mr. Brown's station, 10 miles away, and selected 12 sheep at £2 each, for the journey. They were not large, but in good condition. This Mr. Brown was murdered by the natives less than two years afterwards. 

MURDER OF HAWSON 

October 5 is a day that should be remembered in the annals of Eyre Peninsula, that being the day on which the youth, Frank Hawson, was speared. Eyre gives a long account of the tragedy, but the details will be left for a future article dealing with the murders by the natives. 

In passing we might notice that Eyre called on Dr. Harvey, the colonial surgeon at Port Lincoln, and states that he attended young Frank and that it also devolved on the doctor to report the occurrence to the Governor, as M. Smith was with the police force, who had gone in search of the natives concerned. As an outcome of this murder and probably subsequent ones, Eyre reviews the conduct of the aborigines of Australia generally towards the invaders of their rights, which views I hope to consider in connection with the native murders. 

By October 8 all arrangements were completed for Scott's departure. Specimens of geology and botany which had been collected, a rough chart of the route, despatches and letters were taken to Adelaide. The little boat Emu sailed at 10 p.m., the crew consisting of a man to manage the boat and Scott as supercargo. 

The letter to the chairman of the committee for promoting the northern expedition covers the party's doings. Such parts relating to Eyre Peninsula have already been dealt with herein, but the following paragraph is worthy of mention : "As a line of route from Adelaide for the emigration of stock the course we followed, though it can not be called a good one, is perfectly practicable in the winter season, and I have no doubt, when the country becomes better known, the present track might be considerably improved upon, and both grass and water obtained in abundance." 

CHANGE OF PLANS OPPOSED 

Pending Scott's return Eyre devoted himself to camp life, making short excursions to some of the stations near at hand and trying out a kangaroo dog purchased from one of the whalers, a dog "quite out of the ordinary," for which a high sum was demanded and paid. His character was well maintained, for he was " quite out of the ordinary," in so much that he would chase neither emu nor kangaroo. 

Of the natives, Eyre saw none of them, for they had been driven away from the settled parts by the police and settlers. On October 22, the Waterwitch (Germain master), arrived in port with Scott, with an abundant supply of stores and provisions, sent by the Governor, who also placed the cutter at Eyre's disposal. The Governor and the committee had agreed to Eyre's proposal for going westward. Scott brought back a man, Thomas Costelow, to replace R. M'Robert, whom Eyre was parting with. Wylie, the native whom Eyre wanted, was out in the country and could not be got down in time for the cutter's departure. Having the Waterwitch at his command, Eyre loaded up his heavy gear on her, including a boat he had purchased in case it could be utilised on the coastal or inland explorations, and then instructed the master to make for Streaky Bay, where he was to await further orders. M'Robert, in shepherding the sheep, had lost 11, so Eyre, in paying him off, deducted the price of them from the wages due to the man. Dr. Harvey was settled with for the hire of the boat, but would accept only £5, as Scott had used it only one way. I cannot see the force of the doctor's argument, but it was a very generous gesture.