Close of Exploration by Matthew Flinders

After a harrowing four days, Capt. Flinders left Memory Cove on February 25, 1802, and at 2 o'clock passed round Cape Donington, the cape previously seen from Thistle Island. Sailing into the harbor, Boston Bay, Bicker Isles and Surfleet Point were named, and the ship was anchored off Stamford Hill. 

Mr. Thomas Evans (master's mate) had done duty as master since the loss of Mr. Thistle, and Flinders instructed him to continue until further orders. Search for water was made on Boston Island and on the Stamford Hill shore of Port Lincoln. Nothing was found at the former, and only salt water at the latter place. 

Stamford Hill was ascended on February 26, and bearings taken to all prominent geographical features and names applied to them. The places named were Spalding Cove, Grantham Island and Kirton Point, and, further afield, Point Boston, Point Bolingbroke, Louth Bay, Louth Island, Sir Joseph Banks Group and last, but by no means least, Port Lincoln. 

The boat returned from the unsuccessful search for water on Boston Isle. This, together with the trips made by Flinders when measuring his base line, seems to be the only occasion that Boston Bay was entered. Anchor was weighed, and the short voyage made to the head of Port Lincoln (Proper Bay). Here the ship stayed for 1½ weeks. 

Sleaford Mere was examined for fresh water, but it proved to be salt, so a well was sunk in ' a moist place within a hundred yards of the head of the port,' where fortunately suitable water in sufficient quantity for the ship was found. 

A shore camp was established for the purpose of making astronomical observations, including a solar eclipse which occurred on March 4, and of which a satisfactory observation was made. Surveying and sounding the harbor was part of the programme during the stay, and for this purpose an extensive base line was required.

Because of the view obtainable from North Side Hill, that spot became a principal station in the survey. Even 'the hills at the back of Coffin's Bay ' were seen from it ; apparently Marble Ranges, indicated on the chart as ' bluff seen from North Side Hill.' 

GIFTS FOR NATIVES 

A few natives had been seen throughout the voyage, some at Coffin's Bay, and others at Port Lincoln. Huts were plentiful, but it was not until the last day of the ship's stay that the natives showed themselves openly. Doubtless the sight of the men rowing in a boat roused their curiosity. Communication with the aborigines was not possible, as they retired almost immediately into the scrub, but, to show good will, some hatchets and various articles were left where they would most readily be found. Flinders in this way tried to conciliate the natives toward any strangers who might come among them in the future. 

According to Flinders, Port Lincoln was a fine harbor. Regret was expressed that there was no run of water, but the pits dug would supply water to ships at all times. A suggestion was made that possibly some water might be found in Spalding Cove. The little fertility of the soil, he said, offers no inducement for the establishment of a colony. The climate was praised, and no noxious insects troubled them. It is understood that Flinders subsequently modified his opinion of the port, as expressed when writing up his journal. It is considered that the boating accident at Memory Cove preyed on Flinders' mind, so that he could not see all the potentialities of the place, such as could be seen by future voyagers. That may be so. Unfortunately Flinders went up to the head of Port Lincoln (Proper Bay), passing Boston Bay with its fertile shore and its comparatively abundant supply of water. 

BEAUTY OF HARBOR APPEALS 

The beauty of the harbor appealed to the navigator, and his thoughts went back to his home country, Lincolnshire. The names of places round Port Lincoln were nearly all taken from that county. 

Here it might be mentioned that while in Port Lincoln Flinders used time according to ' civil account,' but elsewhere he used time designated 'log account.' The 'log' time started at noon. All dates quoted by Flinders in his ' Terra Australia ' were converted into civil time, and the dates quoted are therefore civil time. 

On March 5, the ship left the head of the port and anchored at Cape Donington, to pick up Lieut. Fowler, who had been sent on another search for any signs of remains of the crew or the wrecked boat. Fowler had rowed and walked fo Memory Cove and visited the various islands in the vicinity, but no traces of the bodies or any further fragments of the boat were found. 

On March 6, at 10 in the morning, the Investigator sailed along the east side of Boston Island, and a thorough investigation was made of the Sir Joseph Banks group of islands. These islands, except Reevesby and Spilsby, were destitute of wood and almost of shrubs. Signs of geese were seen, but there were no animals other than a few seals. Variations in compass readings still troubled Flinders. 

On March 7, the anchor was weighed and the journey continued northward. Flinders described the coast as low and sandy, with a ridge of hills a few miles behind it, running from North Side Hill until it approached the sea shore about Tumby Bay where it was about two miles back. 

HOPE OF STRAIT FADES AWAY 

A bluff inland mountain was seen, over the top of the front ridge. This point subsequently received the name of Mount Hill. Passing up the uninteresting shore, a lagoon was seen on March 8 from the mast head, and a small inlet connected with it was seen soon afterward. These were subsequently named Lake Flinders and Franklin Harbor by Governor Gawler, who thus honored the two intrepid explorers. The former name has apparently dropped out of use, unfortunately. 

The hills took a bend here, and the prominent corner one received the name of Elbow Hill. The hopes entertained of getting through to the Gulf of Carpentaria began to fade away, the lowness of the shore line and the shallowness of the water, did not indicate a long or extensive inland strait. The coast north of the lagoon was still very low on the west side, and soon land was distinguished to the right. 

Farther on Mount Young and Middle Mount were named. Middleback Mount was named on the return journey. The ridge of hills was still reported to follow beyond the coast line. Still northward, the low coastline, gave the name Point Lowly to a projection of the land, and from about here Mount Brown on the eastern shore was first seen. 

It was now clear that they were in a gulf, and that there could be no strait, but only, possibly, a river. The gulf gradually decreased in width, so the ship was anchored. While the botanists ascended Mount Brown — quite appropriately the botanist Brown was the first to climb the mountain named after him — Flinders continued the survey in a small boat to the head of the gulf. 

On March 11 it was impossible to proceed any further in a boat. ' It was very mortifying to find the water at the head of the gulf as salt nearly as at the ship,' wrote Flinders. The coastline was low, marshy land. The latitude of the head of the gulf was fixed as 32 degrees 24½ minutes south.

END OF VOYAGE 

A return was made for the ship, and the course set for the open sea, following the eastern shore of the gulf. On the night of March 19, the howlings of dogs were heard on the eastern shore. This, and the tracks seen at Fowler's Bay, is the only mention of dogs in this portion of Flinders's voyage. 

On March 20, the examination of the gulf was completed, and the stretch of water named Spencer Gulf. Flinders next surveyed St. Vincent Gulf, and the northern portion of Kangaroo Island. 

Making eastward on Thursday, April 8, 1802, at four o'clock in the afternoon, what at first was thought to be a rock turned out to be a ship approaching. It was Capt. Nicolas Baudin in the ship Le Geographe, bent on a voyage of discovery for the French Government. Flinders went aboard the ship, and after a discussion of an apparently friendly nature, each went his own way the following day. [After dealing with the French voyage it will be necessary to again refer to this eventful meeting.] 

Flinders continued his voyage eastward. Arriving at Port Jackson, he continued northward and circled Australia, but owing to the condition of his ship and men he did not get a chance to survey the points he had missed previously. 

Bad luck dogged his footsteps from now onward. He set sail for England, and was shipwrecked. He made another attempt in the crazy ship Cumberland, and was given the choice of putting in at Mauritius (French) or Cape of Good Hope (Dutch). He chose the French island. He followed a boat into a harbor, and was made a prisoner and detained for about 6½ years, during which time he wrote up his log and plotted his chart. Flinders arrived in England on October 23, 1810. His journal was completed, and with the issue of it he died at the early age of 40 years.