Precis 11

Early Days on Eyre Peninsula 11

CLOSE OF EXPLORATION BY MATTHEW FLINDERS

by J. D. Somerville

After a harrowing four days, Capt. Flinders left Memory Cove on February 25, 1802, and passed round Cape Donington, the cape previously seen from Thistle Island. Sailing into the harbor, Boston Bay, Bicker Isles and Surfleet Point were named, and the ship was anchored off Stamford Hill.

... Search for water was made on Boston Island and on the Stamford Hill shore of Port Lincoln. Nothing was found at the former, and only salt water at the latter place.

Stamford Hill was ascended on February 26, and bearings taken to all prominent geographical features and names applied to them. The places named were Spalding Cove, Grantham Island and Kirton Point, and, further afield, Point Boston, Point Bolingbroke, Louth Bay, Louth Island, Sir Joseph Banks Group and last, but by no means least, Port Lincoln.

The boat returned from the unsuccessful search for water on Boston Isle. This, together with the trips made by Flinders when measuring his base line, seems to be the only occasion that Boston Bay was entered. Anchor was weighed, and the short voyage made to the head of Port Lincoln (Proper Bay). Here the ship stayed for 1½ weeks.

Sleaford Mere was examined for fresh water, but it proved to be salt, so a well was sunk in ' a moist place within a hundred yards of the head of the port,' where fortunately suitable water in sufficient quantity for the ship was found.

The author mentions making a base camp for astronomical observations, including a solar eclipse. He comments about the timidity of the natives to show themselves, and how he left behind articles (e.g. tomahawks) as a show of goodwill.

According to Flinders, Port Lincoln was a fine harbor. Regret was expressed that there was no run of water, but the pits dug would supply water to ships at all times. A suggestion was made that possibly some water might be found in Spalding Cove. The little fertility of the soil, he said, offers no inducement for the establishment of a colony. The climate was praised, and no noxious insects troubled them.

It is understood that Flinders subsequently modified his opinion of the port, as expressed when writing up his journal. It is considered that the boating accident at Memory Cove preyed on Flinders' mind, so that he could not see all the potentialities of the place, such as could be seen by future voyagers. That may be so.

Unfortunately Flinders went up to the head of Port Lincoln (Proper Bay), passing Boston Bay with its fertile shore and its comparatively abundant supply of water.

March 6, the Investigator sailed along the east side of Boston Island, and a thorough investigation was made of the Sir Joseph Banks group of islands. These islands, except Reevesby and Spilsby, were destitute of wood and almost of shrubs. …

On March 7, the anchor was weighed and the journey continued northward. …

The hopes of getting through to the Gulf of Carpentaria began to fade away …

It was now clear that they were in a gulf, and that there could be no strait, but only, possibly, a river. The gulf gradually decreased in width, so the ship was anchored. While the botanists ascended Mount Brown — quite appropriately the botanist Brown was the first to climb the mountain named after him — Flinders continued the survey in a small boat to the head of the gulf.

On March 11 it was impossible to proceed any further in a boat. ' It was very mortifying to find the water at the head of the gulf as salt nearly as at the ship,' wrote Flinders. …

A return was made for the ship, and the course set for the open sea, following the eastern shore of the gulf. …

On March 20, the examination of the gulf was completed, and the stretch of water named Spencer Gulf. Flinders next surveyed St. Vincent Gulf, and the northern portion of Kangaroo Island.

Making eastward on Thursday, April 8, 1802, what at first was thought to be a rock turned out to be a ship approaching. It was Capt. Nicolas Baudin in the ship Le Geographe, bent on a voyage of discovery for the French Government. Flinders went aboard the ship, and after a discussion of an apparently friendly nature, each went his own way the following day. …

Flinders continued his voyage eastward. Arriving at Port Jackson, he continued northward and circled Australia, but owing to the condition of his ship and men he did not get a chance to survey the points he had missed previously.

Bad luck dogged his footsteps from now onward. He set sail for England, and was shipwrecked. He made another attempt in the crazy ship Cumberland, and was given the choice of putting in at Mauritius (French) or Cape of Good Hope (Dutch). He chose the French island. He followed a boat into a harbor, and was made a prisoner and detained for about 6½ years, during which time he wrote up his log and plotted his chart. Flinders arrived in England on October 23, 1810. His journal was completed, and with the issue of it he died at the early age of 40 years.

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The next installment focuses on the French explorers and Captain Baudin, including more about his famous encounter with Flinders.