Flinders Investigations (cont)

By J. D. Somerville

Port Lincoln Times (SA : 1927 - 1954), Friday 4 January 1935, page 3

February 1 to 4, 1802, was spent by Capt. Flinders in investigating the Isles of St. Francis, Flinders's new name, and landing on the largest of the islands (Isle of St. Francis).

Petrels, ' pinguins,' a small species of ' kanguroo ' and hair seals were found, and the vegetation was almost burnt up. The weather was very hot, causing great discomfort to the party wherever they landed, and the haziness of the atmosphere made the fixing of the coast here and elsewhere most difficult. Petrels were so plentiful on this island that in two hours a shore party gathered sufficient birds to give four to each man on the ship.

It was there that Flinders noticed that the South-East and East winds tended to lower the barometric readings. He surmised that the winds came across the land, instead of over the sea as had been the previous experience, and he conjectured that the shore line must trend toward the south, which theory proved correct.

Flinders attempted to sail to where St. Pieter's Isle should be, but contrary winds would not permit, therefore he sailed south-easterly. On the February 5, approaching the shore, al-though not visible, he found much refuse from the shore as well as sea-weed floating about, some hopes of finding a river were entertained " and " the water was much discolored in streaks." Thus Streaky Bay received its name.

Here the haze was particularly bad. The true horizon could not be distinguished from several false ones, altering the shape of objects, even making a sandy beach look like a chalky cliff, and preventing him from seeing whether there were any hills inland.

FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR RIVER

Arrived at Port Westall, the wind was favorable for a return to the islands, so that an examination could be made of the 40 miles of coast un-surveyed. On arriving opposite Denial Bay Flinders said : ' Besides quantities of grass and branches of trees or bushes floating in the water, there was a number of long gauze-winged insects topping about the surface, such as frequent fresh water lakes and swamps.' This seemed to indicate a river, but a test of the sea-water for salinity showed that there could not be any fresh water flowing into the bay, which was appropriately named Denial Bay "in allusion to St. Peter" and to the deceptive hope they had formed of penetrating by it some distance into the interior country. It was at this time he felt in a position to express an opinion of the country, as follows : —

' The surface of the continent seemed to be almost equally destitute of vegetable soil to cover the sand and rock ; and from the hot winds off the land, which we felt in Streaky and Smoky Bays, it would seem that this aridity prevails to a considerable distance in the interior. There are, however, some grounds to believe that a lake, or run of fresh water exists not far from Denial Bay '; the flock of teal seen on the Isle of St. Peter and the winged fresh water insects were evidence of this.

A fairly close examination of the coast and islands was made. It was anticipated that a complete examination would be made when accompanied by the Lady Nelson, but that hope did not eventuate. Flinders tried to reconcile his survey of the islands with that of Nuyts, on the whole unsatisfactory in detail, but sufficiently close to satisfy himself that Nuyts Archipelago, as he now named it, was the group of islands delineated by Nuyte and shown on Hessel Gerritsz' map of 1618 or 1627.

Flinders considers some of the islands shown by Nuyts (Thevenot map 1663) should actually be portion of the mainland, but, "the question is, in fact of no importance, other than what arises from a desire to do justice to the Dutch navigator.'

ANXIOUS BAY WELL NAMED

On February 9, Flinders left the islands, shaping a course for Cape Bauer (which, by the way, has been changed now to Cape Wondoma). He then followed along the coast, and came to a bight full of rocks with low land behind. Sailing in this bight with contrary winds and the uncertainty of the whole situation made the name ' Anxious Bay ' most fitting. A lagoon was seen from the masthead with a small outlet to the sea. In subsequent years this lagoon received the name of Venus Bay.

Investigator Group (honoring Flinders's ship) was next encountered, and a landing made on Waldegrave's Isle. The naturalist, Mr. Brown remarks that "this was the first island where not a single novelty in the natural history presented itself to his observation." From this island, an-other was seen and named Flinders Island, taking its name from the second lieutenant. On Flinders Island it was found that the ' vegetation differed from that of other islands before visited, in that the lower lands were covered with large bushes ' and ' a small species of ' kanguroo ' not larger than a cat.' Seals also visited the beaches.

A course was made for Point Drummond. Through the haze the coast could not be closely examined, but the shore was apparently of moderate elevation, and barren. Point Sir Isaac and Coffin's Bay were the next points of interest. The name of Coffin's Bay conjures up pictures of shipwrecks, disasters, deaths and suchlike, so it is quite a relief to record that Flinders used the name as a compliment to the then Vice Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin, Bart., who had been zealous in outfitting the Investigator. Although a careful survey was made, Flinders did not enter the inner harbor, and his chart shows by the unconnected shoreline that he recognised that the survey of the bay was incomplete.

ERRATIC COMPASS

Mount Greenly was seen and named, but apparently Marble Range was not sighted from the bay. Flinders, fixing its position from North Side Hill, failed to name it. Many ' smokes ' were seen around the bay, indicating that the country was better inhabited than the rest of the coast westward. Flinders does not remark on oysters, so it is evident he did [sic] discover this popular bivalve.

A little to the south, Whidbey's Isles were named. In one of these islands the ' upper stratum is perforated, admitting the light through the island.' In subsequent years ' Perforated Island ' was the appropriate name applied to it. The easterly islands of Whidbey's Isles and the low projection of the main land, with rocks and breakers, and being exposed to the dangerous south winds, led to the names of Point Avoid and Avoid Bay.

Flinders throughout had been having trouble with the variation of his compass, and in this neighborhood the trouble was accentuated. Endeavoring to rectify it, he dismounted two of the guns, but finding no good result he made a close examination of all circumstances connected there-with. The subject is too technical to deal with in this article, and is only referred to, to show one of the difficulties encountered and the determination of Flinders to overcome them.

Next week's instalment will deal with the tragedy at Memory Cove, when eight men from the Investigator, including the master, were drowned.

Early Days of Eyre Peninsula—No. 6 (1935, January 4). Port Lincoln Times (SA : 1927 - 1954), p. 3. http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article96716475