Capt. Douglas's Examination of West Coast

By J. D. Somerville

Port Lincoln Times (SA : 1927 - 1954), Friday 10 July 1936, page 3

After leaving Glenelg, the Natala called at Cape Borda "where His Excellency landed despatches," presumably for England. Closely passing the Neptunes, it was found by observations that they were "laid down very correctly." Sleaford Bay was then approached, and after examination, it was reported "that portion of the coast which appears to be delineated on Flinders' chart with great accuracy." Rocky Island Capt. Douglas found was wrongly placed, and observations were taken to correct the charts.

Fowler's Bay was reached in due time. Having carefully perusal Eyre's book, considered the reports of the natives, the total absence of water in the vicinity of the bay and the arid and parched state of the country. Douglas wrote, " I saw no hope of discovering any tract of land different in character from that visible, in all its sterility, from the summit of the eminence at the head of the harbor." He therefore considered a walk inland would be useless, in which opinion he was sustained by the Governor.

Fowler's Bay was surveyed, water was found under some sandhills, and a suitable site for the location of a township was found at the head of the bay. The Governor desired that the harbor itself should be called Port Eyre, leaving Fowler's Bay to designate the entire space between Point Fowler and Point Sinclair. The harbor was considered to be a most valuable place for ships on the exposed part of the coast where it was situated, but Capt. Douglas considered it extremely doubtful whether the adjacent country could ever be made available for pastoral or agricultural purposes.

The Hon. (afterwards Sir) Samuel Davenport on the formation, in 1885, of the Geographical Society (South Australian branch) became its first president, and in his inaugural address said he accompanied His Ex-cellency sir Richard MacDonnell to Fowler's Bay, in 1858, and they saw the tracks of Eyre, made some 16 years previously.

FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR WATER

Leaving Fowler's Bay, a search was next made for Geographe Reef, previously located by the French when it was found to be incorrectly shown on the plans. The island mentioned by the Treasurer (Capt. Hart) was found and accurately fixed as well as a reef between it and St. Francis Group. Later on Douglas called the island "Hart's Island," and the reef "Cannan's Reef," the former after Capt Hart and the latter after the discoverer, who had unfortunately incorrectly fixed its position.

Petrel Bay was left on April 10, and the following morning the ship was anchored at St. Peter's Island, when a fruitless search was made for water. The ship was taken to the north-western side of Denial Bay, where a navigable creek, having 9 ft. of water on a bar at low water, was found. Nearby was a very eligible spot for a township. The creek was culled "Davenport Creek." after the Hon. S. Davenport. A complete survey or the harbor had to be postponed, as His Excellency was due at Streaky Bay, on April 20, where it had been arranged for horses to meet him, to convey his party to Port Lincoln. Three hundred gallons of water were shipped, being procured by great exertion in some sand hills.

Leaving Denial Bay on April 15, the boat passed an unnamed rock, to which the Governor applied the name "Bird Rock." It was found that Cannan's chart of Denial Bay was not accurate, and that the bay was not so bad as portrayed by the French. Proceeding easterly they passed eastward of St. Peter's Island, and examined Smoky Bay inside Eyre's Island, a mere sandbank clothed with salsolaceous vegetation. On account of a shoal, a southern course could not be steered, so the captain had to return westward, keeping Eyre's and Frank lin's Islands to the south, and St Peter's to the north, whence the channel to the open sea was followed. It will be remembered that Flinders did not survey this part of the coast minutely. The French were supposed to have done so, but they missed the channel, which was now given the name "Waterwitch Channel," after the boat that attended Eyre from Streaky Bay to Fowler's Bay in 1840-1841.

GOVERNOR LEAVES FOR PORT LINCOLN

Streaky Bay was reached on April 20. The Governor landed there, and left next day for Port Lincoln. The bay, both inner and outer, was then surveyed, being thoroughly examined and sounded. Capt. Douglas said that in the harbor some difficulties might be encountered in its navigation, but with care a ship of ordinary size could be taken into it safely to find shelter. He wrote, "Of Streaky Bay it was impossibly to form but one opinion, that as a harbor in the vicinity of fine pastoral districts, possessing so many natural advantages it will when the stream of population flows in that direction, be the western port of the Province."

Capt. Douglas did not envisage a railway running through the centre of the Peninsula with one of its ends at Denial Bay (Cape Thevenard), taking away the produce that should have gravitated to the natural outlet, and for the time being debarring it from attaining its fame as the western port. But who can say with alteration of transport methods it may not yet become such a port as Douglas pictured.

The inner harbor so appealed to His Excellency that he named it after his wife Lady MacDonnell, under the term "Blanche-port." It is a perfectly land-locked basin, and good for vessels drawing not more than 17 ft., with a suitable site for a township on its shore.

Leaving Streaky Bay the ship was taken back to Davenport Creek, where a minute survey was begun and extended to Smoky Bay. Excellent tracts of land on the north side of Tourville Bay were found, which were well worthy of attention by sheep farmers. The natives said no water existed in the vicinity.

St. Peter's Island was again visited and this time abundant water was found by digging in the sandhills. The grass was growing, and was of the most luxurious description.

Capt. Douglas reported that the country in the vicinity of Smoky Bay appeared scrubby and unpromising, but a closer land exploration might reveal otherwise. A search of islands was made for guano without success.

MISTAKE ABOUT REEF

Casuarina Reef was next searched for, but could not be found, and Capt. Douglas came to the conclusion that it was the same reef as Geographe. The latitude of both being the same, there was a probability that imperfectly constructed chronometers gave different longitudes to the two boats Le Geographe, and the Casuarina. Years afterwards the Admiralty officers made another survey of the district, and as their plan only shows one reef under the name of Yatala. it is apparent that they concurred in the opinion of Douglas. In future local maps, the Surveyor-General states the name of Geographe Reef will be expunged. This decision naturally alters the mention of Geographe Reef, being one of the French names remaining on the present day maps, as was stated in the French exploration series.

A course was then set for Venus Bay and the entrance surveyed. Capt. Douglas reported that several vessel had leaded there, having passed in and out safely. He said he was agreeably surprised to notice the excellent pasturage afforded in that district. On June 3, Venus Bay was left, and Flinders Island was visited to fix Ward Islands, as Flinders's chart showed "position uncertain."

The Pearson Group was then visited, the number and size of the islands being determined. Weather proving threatening, Coffin's Bay was made for, the boat arriving there on June 6 and remaining there until June 9. Capt. Douglas being "glad to avail myself of the excellent shelter obtained in that bay." Time and weather did not permit of making a survey.

The Governor, en route to Port Lincoln, had visited the bay, and called the inner harbor Port Douglas. The worthy captain hoped for another opportunity to make a detailed survey of Coffin's Bay. Leaving Coffin's Bay, Greenly and other islands on their track were examined, and Port Adelaide was reached on June 12, 1858.

EARLY DAYS OF EYRE PENINSULA (1936, July 10). Port Lincoln Times (SA : 1927 - 1954), p. 3. http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article96723917