Account of Robert Tod's Explorations

Robert Tod arrived at Boston Bay, on March 19, 1839, in the Abeona. After the ceremony of hoisting the flag and the disastrous salute on the boat, a party consisting of Messrs. Tod, Winter (the surveyor), Fenn and Stephens left Happy Valley on March 20.

On reaching the top of the ridge of hills, they looked down on the swamps, the nearest being about six miles from the harbor. Some of the hills were barren and covered with granite or ironstone. The hills were generally of open sheoak forest land. The trees were rather stunted, but the majority of the hills had sufficient grass for de-pasturing a limited number of cattle.

From the highest hill behind the harbor, it was said there was a "charming view of the bay and the surrounding coast, while towards the west the coast and sandhills adjoining Coffin's Bay were distinctly visible. In the north-west lay an undulating country, clear in many places, with belts of open forest, and at no great distance, the bed of a lake about nine miles in circumference."

The nearest swamp was investigated and an outlet observed running in the direction of the head of Port Lincoln proper. This outlet river was dry but covered with large gum trees. The flood marks indicated that a considerable body of water issued from the lake at certain seasons.

About six or seven miles from North Side Hill a fresh water lagoon was found, about 2 or 3 square miles in extent, and which abounded in duck and other wild fowl. It is said to be surrounded by good land. By the descriptions these must surely have been Little Swamp, Duck Pond Creek and Duck Ponds. Signs of natives were observed, but no aborigines were seen. The party returned by a route less elevated, reaching the coast at the south side of Boston Bay. From the description one would imagine the party crossed the hills, say about Prewitt's waterhole, and then down to Boston Bay. The journey apparently occupied one day.

GOOD LAND INDICATED

This short journey held out promises of good land in the interior, so another party consisting of Messrs. Austin, Crouch, Fenn, Phillipson, Stephens and Williams under the leadership of Robert Tod left the port on March 23, 1839, for another investigation of the country. In addition to the settlers mentioned, the party was accompanied by a servant and two Adelaide natives. No horses being available, the trip was limited to four days, there and back, the party being compelled to carry their own provisions, cloaks, ammunition and water for emergency.

They went northward, along the foot of the hills running along the coast, passing through six miles of open forest, then three miles of barren scrub, which brought them to the promontory north of Boston Bay. While Tod was examining the bay, the balance of the party discovered a river 100 ft. wide and 6 ft. to 8 ft. deep, and they gave it the name River Tod, in compliment to the leader of the party. The river was traced to the sea where, like most South Australian rivers, a bar was found at the outlet. They then re traced their steps and continued up the river. After a short distance the bed became dry and occasional pools, some of which were brackish, were found. With sunset, a camp was made under a ' breakweather' , of boughs.

The next morning (March 24) the source of the river was looked for. Although five miles from the sea in a straight line, and considerably above its level, they found in the bed of the river deep pools of salt water. After travelling about seven miles farther west, over steep hills, they discovered a rill of fresh water at the foot of a high peak. This peak, which was visible from all parts of Boston Bay, forming a good landmark to the north, was named Mount Gawler, and Tod, writing to the Governor, said the name was applied "to mark our gratitude for the manner in which your Excellency has conducted the affairs of this province." At the foot of the mount seven emus were observed. After resting the party ascended the peak and had an extensive view from the N.N.E. to S.S.E., about 21 miles distant. Westward a second ridge of hills was seen, less elevated, but extending 18 miles westerly.

Descending Mount Gawler on the west, and at the foot of the mount, ' a beautiful vale' was discovered to which the name Cowan Vale was applied. The soil was rich and the grass luxuriant. The party still journeyed toward the west, but as no water had been found by sunset, the party returned to Cowan Vale, and camped for the night.

CONTACT WITH NATIVES

Next morning a detailed exploration of the vale was made. It was found to be about five miles long and from a half to one mile wide. In the centre was Cowan Lagoon, about 188 yards long by 44 yards wide, apparently deep, and containing excellent water. To the west of the vale the hills were extremely barren, although some of them bore stately gum trees. Provisions were almost exhausted, so a return to Port Lincoln was decided upon, but before doing so it was desired to make friendly contact with the natives. Up to that time no natives had been seen, but fires were observed in various directions. The two Adelaide natives were sent ahead to make contact, while the whites followed behind. A native woman and two children were seen by the white party digging up roots. Robert Tod writes :

"They were terrified at our appearance, but the woman was gradually tranquillized by the present of biscuit and perhaps still more by our immediate departure." Another account says the woman had to be chased before they could speak to her. Mr. Williams, who apparently understood the Adelaide natives' language, could not understand the dialect of the woman. The Adelaide natives rejoined the party, stating that they had seen two of the local blacks, but that " their height, aspect, and extremely long spears had discouraged discourse." Thus ended the first attempt to meet the natives.

A return was made for Cowan Vale. A course was directed to the harbor, this time following the course of the stream where practicable. Proceeding south by east, the explorers came to the point where they had previously left the river to ascend Mount Gawler, establishing, as they thought, that the Tod took its rise in Cowan Vale. Three other natives were seen that day. They did not seem alarmed, but on seeing the full strength of the white party, walked leisurely away. Three kangaroos were seen the same day, being the first observed in that quarter. A camp was made in a little valley of the first range, about 16 miles from the new settlement, and the harbor was reached at 2 p.m. on March 26.

DUTTON'S EXPEDITION

Tod wrote of the trip : "The general features of the first range of hills for at least twenty miles north are open forest, generally sheoak, rarely gum trees, the soil is shallow, but with few exceptions they may be considered adapted for sheep runs."

This is not quite so favorable as the report given to Robert Cock, who on visiting Boston Bay in May, said that two parties had been out in the country and they reported "the land to be equal to that in the vicinity of Mount Barker."

Robert Tod had explored a portion of the eastern land, but nothing was known of the land to the west, except possibly Henty's version. Capt. Lees and Samuel Stephens had been at Coffin's Bay, but their reports had not been issued. Charles Christian Dutton, had arrived at Port Lincoln in the Dorset, in order that he " might by personal observation form a correct judgment of the capabilities of this harbour and its surrounding country." We have not the date of his arrival at Port Lincoln, but it is somewhere about March 28 or 29, 1839. Some of his own views have been commented on in a previous article.

In fulfilling his desire to know the country it was fitting that he should make an extended tour of the district. So on March 30, 1839, a party consisting of Capt. Hawson, Messrs. T. Hawson, Mitchell, R. Stevens, Dennis, Thos. Whybell and Thos. Harrison, under the leadership of Dutton, left Port Lincoln. From the hills behind the settlement they observed a range of hills, and a round topped mountain bearing N.W., to which the names of Hawson's Range (now known as Marble Range) and Mount Dutton were applied. Mount Dutton is apparently the same eminence that Capt. Lees called Prospect Hill. The range of hills had been seen by Flinders from the top of North Side Hill, but be did not name it. The first objective of the party, was Coffin's Bay, where it was understood there was some fine land with a fresh water river (see Henty's account). The first seven or eight miles passed over was fair sheep country, lightly wooded with sheoak. A partially dry lagoon was encountered, with fresh water in holes. Surrounding the lagoon there appeared a rich deposit of soil suitable for agriculture. The description seems to fit in with the Fountain Springs. A mile or two of limestone country was traversed by the explorers, then rocky ridges for nearly 20 miles, when they were forced to make a dry camp among scrub and sandstone.

MEMBER OF PARTY LOST

The following day (March 31) the journey was resumed in similar class of country, until midday saw them at "an immense barrier of bright sand." On ascending the first ridge, it was found they extended for about 10 miles to Coffin's Bay. Let me say here that it is strongly suspected that Dutton's mileages were overstated ; the distances may have seemed those stated by him, but putting the measure on the track, a different length is made. All who have walked through the Eyre Peninsula scrub will sympathise with Dutton, and are willing to agree to the mileages stated by him.

Just before reaching the sandhills, Dennis, with his dogs, got lost while hunting kangaroos. The party found water by sinking in the sand, and, then following a native track, the head of Coffin's Bay came in sight at sundown. After camping there, the bay, was reached early the following morning (April 1), where plenty of fresh water was found on the beach. A breakfast of boiled cockles was the item on the bill of fare. Dennis, the lost man, turned up. Dutton then says : "We proceeded on our route, following the course of a salt water creek, and after a time, a magnificent country opened upon us, the trees growing in clusters, interspersed about a rich park-like flat, in the centre of which there was a large lagoon covered with black swans."

The water was brackish. They still followed the creek, shooting some of the numerous ducks on the way. Ascending a slight eminence, "a still more beautiful country stretched before us, studded with innumerable salt water lagoons, which are now however perfectly dry. Immense herds of kangaroos were quietly grazing about."

Dutton again allows his imagination to run riot, for they "made across the immense plains and beds of lagoons which now only intervene between us and Hawson's Range." At the foot of the range another dry camp was made. Early next morning (April 2) Hawson's Range was ascended by portion of the party. Large blocks of 'variegated marble ' (possibly quartz) were seen, some of them standing six and seven feet above the surface.