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Sydney Gazette and New South Wales Advertiser (NSW : 1803 - 1842), Thursday 30 June 1836, page 2

PORT LINCOLN.

As Captain Hindmarsh's projected new Settlement is not unlikely to be by this time in course of formation, the following sketch from Mr. Martin's Library of the Colonies, vol. iv., of that portion of the great Southern Coast of this vast Island, denominated Port Lincoln, may not prove uninteresting to the reader. It will be well, however, to take it " cum grano salis :"—

"There is much discrepancy in the accounts of the persons who have visited Port Lincoln and its immediate neighbourhood, relative to its distinguishing features. Captain Flinders is unfavorable to the capabilities of that part of Australia for the establishment of a colony ; while the French navigators, Baudin and Freycinet, are quite the reverse ; and this latter opinion is corroborated by Captain Goold and others who have since visited the spot.

" The most recent account of Spalding Cove, which was not visited by Flinders, is given by a person of the name of Hamburg, who visited it in May 1832. He states that he anchored on the eastern side of the Cove, in blue clay, in seven fathoms water, and that position is safe from all winds, being nearly land-locked. He went about a mile and a half inland, and found two streams of fine water, as clear as crystal, running into Spalding Cove from the southward. This person has travelled much in Van Dieman's Land and Australia generally, and is of opinion that the appearance of the country resembles Port Augusta rather than any other part he has seen. Among the trees he saw were cedar (which would cut into two feet planks) ; beef-wood, tulip wood, stringy bark (very large), huon pine and iron bark. He saw plenty of wood which would serve for ship and boat building, and for spars. The grass was about knee deep and in great quantity ; it was quite green, and numbers of kangaroos and other animals were feeding on it ; the kangaroos were large and as fat as any he had seen elsewhere.

" The object of his visit to Port Lincoln was to convey thither a party of 30 persons, with five boats and the necessary implements for catching whales. The persons whom he left had been there three previous seasons for the same purpose, and had been successful. The black whales are very commonly met with close in shore ; the sperm whales not frequently being farther to the southward. Seals are very numerous. He also found other fish in great numbers and variety— amongst them were grey mullet from 7lb. to 8lb. in weight, red mullet from 2lb. to 8lb. ; soles, mackerel, herrings, snapper, jew-fish, salmon, trumpeters, parrot fish, sting ray, mussels, oysters, cockles, rock cod, turtle, &c.

" The natives he saw were numerous and peaceful. They assisted in carrying water to the ship, and in other matters. For a little tobacco, and with kind treatment, he is convinced they will work well. These natives, as well as the whalers and sealers, depend for their supply of water on the two streams running into Spalding Cove before mentioned.

" Pursuing the line of coast, the next place of importance is Port Lincoln, properly so called, by which is meant that inlet S. of Grantham Island, and which Capt. Flinders anchored in with the Investigator. What is known of the neighbourhood of this place is from the accounts of Captain Flinders, Mr. Westall, Captain Dillon, and the Captains Baudin and Freycinet, who visited Port Lincoln twice.

" Captain Flinders says, ' Port Lincoln is certainly a fine harbour; and it is much to be regretted that it possesses no constant run of fresh water, unless it should be in Spalding Cove, which we did not examine. Our pits at the head of the port will, however, supply ships at all times; and though discoloured with whitish clay, the water has no pernicious quality, nor is it ill tasted. This, and wood, which was easily procured, were all that we wanted. 

" ' Of the climate we had no reason to speak but in praise ; nor were we incommoded with noxious insects. The range of the thermometer on board the ship was from 66. to 78. On shore the average height of the thermometer at noon was 76.'

" Mr. Westall says he is of opinion that the land at Port Lincoln is much better than at King George's Sound; and this is found by recent experiment to be very good land, and applicable to all the purposes of agriculture.

" Captain Dillon was at Port Lincoln in 1815. He landed at the head of the port and remained there two days. The timber he saw was very large and in great plenty. The hills were covered with trees, and he considers the land to be very fertile and productive.

" The accounts of Port Lincoln given by MM. Baudin, Freycinet, and Peron, are of a very encouraging character. 

After describing minutely the geographical position of the port, the following ac count is given :—

" ' On the western side of the gulf, and near its entrance is Champagny Port (Port Lincoln), one of the finest and most secure in New Holland ; in every part of it is an excellent bottom; the depth of water, even close in with the land, is from ten to twelve fathoms (French), and such is the capacity of this magnificent port, that it is competent. to receive the most numerous fleets. In front of this port is Lagrange Island (Boston Island) four or five leagues in circumference, and which, placed exactly in the middle of the mouth of the port, leaves on each side a passage from two to three miles broad, in both which passages a vessel can work with ease and security. Finally, as if nature were inclined, in favour of Champagny Port (Port Lincoln), to change the character of monotony and barrenness stamped on the neighbouring lands, she has formed its shores of gently rising slopes, and clothed them with umbrageous forests. We did not find any fresh water at this spot ; but the vigour and liveliness of vegetation, and the height of the country, to us were certain indices of the existence of some rivulets, or at least of some copious springs. On this the most favoured part of 'Napoleon Land' (South Australia), there are certainly numerous tribes of inhabitants, for the whole country seemed in flames. So many exclusive advantages insure special importance to Port Champagny (Port Lincoln), and I may fearlessly affirm that, of all the points of this land, this is the best adapted for the establishment of an European colony.'

" The second visit of the same party was made a few weeks later, when the impression in favour of this spot appears to have been heightened. The subjoined statement was then given of the harbour: -

" ' This harbour consists of three basins, in each of which there is not less than ten or twelve fathoms (French) water, with a bottom of a muddy sand, and which, from their extent, would be capable of receiving the navies of all Europe. Boston Island is at the mouth of this admirable port, and it forms, with the continent, two passages, in each of which the largest ships of war might work with safety. The northern passage is the narrowest, and opens into Boston Bay, the southern is larger, and opens on one side into the western basin, and on the other into Spalding Cove. Between the island and the main land is channel Degerando, which establishes a direct communication between the three basins, and which at the same time offers excellent moorings for the most numerous fleets. Two small islands placed at the mouth of the southern basin, likewise afford good shelter. The same may be said of Grantham Island, with regard to the western basin. Shall I repeat here what I have already said as to the fertility of the soil? Shall I speak of the valleys, which would seem to denote corresponding springs or brooks of fresh water ? Is it necessary for me to insist upon those numerous fires which our companions, on approaching the port, observed on all the neighbouring declivities, and which would seem to attest the existence at this spot of a population much more numerous than on the other points of the S.W. coast? Worthy to rival Port Jackson, Port Lincoln is, under every point of view, one of the finest harbours in the world; and of all those discovered by us, whether on the S. the W. or the N. of New Holland, it appears, I repeat it, to be the best adapted to receive an European colony.'

" The only account of Boston Bay which has been received, is that by Capt. Goold, unless the above report by the French travellers is intended, as there is some reason to believe it is, rather as a description of Boston Bay than of Port Lincoln itself.

" Captain Goold anchored in Boston Bay between the island and the mainland, and resided there in all three weeks. He went about three miles inland, and found the country was open forest land, with the trees about forty or fifty yards apart. They were large and well grown. Amongst them were the blue gum, cedar saplings, and one very large rose wood tree. In digging for water, he found the soil to the depth of three feet, to be of a moist heavy nature ; it was a black mould, and under it was a bed of yellow clay. He did not go deep enough for water, in consequence of one of the crew having found a spring which amply supplied his wants. This was just westward of Port Boston, below the high water mark. There was plenty of grass, although much dried up, in consequence of the season being advanced. He spent Christmas Day (1827) at Boston Bay. In the August following, he returned thither, and found water at the spring which had before supplied him. The water was hard, but very palatable The anchorage was good, being in five fathoms, close in shore. While at anchor in Boston Bay, a typhoon arose which lasted four hours - it blew from the southward ; but the ship was not injured in the least. Typhoons are com-mon about the time of the S. and W. monsoons ; they are peculiar to the southern seas.

" Captain Goold's experience of Australia has been very considerable ; he has been all round the island ; but with Swan River, he is more particularly acquainted. Comparing Boston Bay with the places just named, he says that the land of none of them can be compared with Boston Bay, excepting Hunter's River, the garden and granary of New South Wales. It is far superior to all the rest, and about equal to the last.

" Nothing which he is aware of can render the establishment of a colony at Port Lincoln undesirable :—on the contrary, Captain Goold declares that the harbour, soil, climate, position for commerce, and vicinity to excellent fishing grounds, render the formation of a colony there, in his opinion, highly desirable."