Explorations by McLaren, Flaxman and Morphett (2)

McLaren after recording the first day's adventures in Coffin's Bay said, "Found fresh water at a short distance from the beach, in a small spring which had been recently cleaned and beside which we found a broken oar," and that they "sowed some turnip seed at this spot and in other parts where we landed, that although no other settlers might be located there, the poor natives might reap some advantage from our visit." Does this broken oar indicate that other Europeans had been in the inner harbor prior to this visit ? Of course the natives may have carried it there, or the flood stream.

Reference has been made to the possible visit by the Henty's. McLaren said that after going up the second inner bay towards the north-west (Mount Dutton Bay ?) that they "landed on the east side, went up a hill nearly as high as Mount Greenly, but considerably to the southward of Mount Greenly. The land, very poor, sandy soil and limestone in general. No fresh water. From the hill we observed a large salt lagoon in the direction of Mount Greenly, and various places farther off, where there were similar appearances but no river nor even a mountain stream. We went somewhat farther into the interior and from another hill we had a pretty extensive view for 8 or 10 miles eastward and southward. At a distance of 3 or 4 miles we saw lakes or ponds of water, which are probably connected with the first inner bay at the south-eastern extremity. A pretty extensive plain intervened between, the hill on which we stood and that water but it was very indifferent in soil in so far as we could judge."

Both Lees and Stephens only refer to climbing one hill, whereas McLaren makes it two. If one was Mount Dutton (Prospect Hill of Lees), what was the other ? Reading McLaren's account it almost seems they got across to the southern end of Marble Ranges and the water three or four miles southward being Lake Wangary with Kellidie Bay farther on. This is only suggested as a possible solution.

McLaren's account is somewhat difficult to follow, more particularly in the next incident : — "We returned to our boat by the same route as we came, in the morning, and when we were returning, as well as when we passed that way going out, after the lapse of an hour or two, we saw, or thought we saw three vessels in Coffin's Bay, two brigs and a barque. When we left the Nereus on the preceding morning, there was no other vessel, except the Lord Sidmouth, the Nereus being anchored farther in the bay than the Lord Sidmouth, while the third vessel was (appeared ?) farther out. The three vessels were seen equally distinctly, end on and with their sides to us. Seen by all the party, 5 or 6, when together and when separated from each other, seen from different positions and at different times, and yet as respected the third vessel, it was a mere optical illusion. No vessel whatever except the Lord Sidmouth and the Nereus having been in the bay, from the time we left the Nereus till the time of our return. The idea of an illusion of the kind, never once occurred to any one of the party, so that I must ever regard that circumstance as one of the most singular incidents in my life."

NORTHWARD BOUND

On Wednesday the 13th, Stephens records, "Calm and foul winds so that we could not move the ship" so they spent the lost time in getting a supply of fresh water from the barque. On the 14th a light breeze allowed them to get away from the bay. Keeping within two miles of the shore, until within ten miles of Waldegrave's Island, when they hauled off for the night. Stephens said, "We expected to have found a river beyond Point Drummond but saw not the least appearance of either a river or even a drain of any kind up to the time we hauled off. The coast is bluff, general ly sandstone and clay. The country at the backs of the coast hills seldom visible, but when seen, appears barren, sandy or scrubby."

The 15th saw them reaching the Waldgrave's Island but "foul" wind prevented them making the anchor age, so had again to stand off. Contrary winds prevented them reaching the anchorage marked by Flinders until 4 p.m. on the 16th. On going ashore they were surprised to see eight dogs either of the foxhound or Newfoundland breeds, but thought there were more. The young ones were shy, but the old ones came on to the beach and barked for hours at the ship. It was said that the base of the island was generally granite, some parts limestone and the tops all sand covered with bushes. The top of the island was thoroughly burrowed by mutton birds, so walking had many pitfalls. No fresh water seen, but there were evidence where fires had been lit and birds cooked. The fracture of some of the firewood seemed quite fresh. Sunday the 17th. brought contrary winds, blowing hard, so no progress could be made, neither could they reach the mainland. A further investigation of the island was made to see if there were any traces of a shipwreck but none were seen, nor any appearance of human habitation beyond the remains of the fire seen the day before.

In the "Port Lincoln Times" of April 5, 1935, it is recorded that a man named Brien lived on Flinders Island for a long time. In McLaren's version it is said "We saw no natives but observed the remains of some recent fires, which we afterwards learnt had been kindled by two sealers who had been on the island, after having passed two or three months on Flinders Island, whereon they found plenty of fresh water and wallabies."

The 18th smiled on the voyagers and with a very light wind Point Weyland was made, where it is recorded by Stephens, that the captain and Stephens, went ashore to investigate the "lagoon from the masthead" by Flinders. They found a passage about a cable wide, from the lagoon to the sea and from a sandhill saw the water extending 10 to 12 miles to the north west. McLaren's version was that entrance from the sea was about half a mile wide, but unavailable because of a reef which runs across, over which the sea breaks heavily. Flinders would not essay the task of outlining the lagoon, without a survey, so on his chart he only showed the entrance. From his chart it would almost appear that he did not see that it extended northwards, yet he was close inshore at that point. In subsequent years the opening and lagoon was named Venus Bay. The wind freshening the ship was hauled off shore for the afternoon and night.

On the 19th, according to Stephens, at 10 a.m. they made Cape Radstock and stood into the bay to investigate, more particularly to see if there was an opening into the lagoon seen the day before, but found none. On this day they did not see the long indenture behind Cape Radstock. They saw the island previously reported by Flinders and considered there were good reasons to think that Cape Radstock itself was an island. The weather did not permit an examination by boat so they had to stand out to sea again.

At this stage it might be mentioned that the first pioneer to arrive at Port Lincoln by the Abeona landed at Happy Valley on the day the Nereus reached Cape Radstock, that is the 19th March. So between Flaxman and McLaren almost the whole of the coastline from Poonindie to Cape Radstock had been examined before Port Lincoln in embryo became an actuality.

On the 20th at 6 a.m. they found themselves opposite the second point north of Cape Radstock, which the captain named Point Turnagain. Was the captain poaching on the Dutch name of one of the earliest names applied in Australia? It will be remembered that in 1606, the captain of the Duyfhen named his furthest point in the Gulf of Carpentaria as Cape Keerweer, which rendered into English is Turnagain (see "Port Lincoln Times" 23/11/19134).

The Nereus was then sailed from the north to the south-east. A search was made for a channel from the lagoon seen on the 18th but none found, but they thought that the lagoon stretched far away to the north, as the captain had seen from the masthead a long continuation of the water inland.

McLaren's version of the two days' activities of the 19th and 20th is some what different from that of Stephens, which, I think, is caused by the fact that the events of the two days are not kept separate. This is what he said :— "On arriving at Point Radstock the captain observed from the masthead another sheet of water behind the range of sandhills etc. on the beach, which seemingly is connected with that inland lake at Point Weyland. We were very desirous of ascertaining if there was ah opening to the sea. We examined the coast both on the eastward and westward of Point Radstock. On the former there is a small opening, which is probably connected with the inland lake, but if so it is quite unavailable owing to a range of reefs which runs across that opening. We stood on ward, and examined the coast a short way beyond Point Radstock, but could discover no outlet for these inland waters. Having ascertained that there is no river in that quarter, connected with the sea and having seen no land which appeared really valuable, we resolved to return to Port Adelaide.

Flinders apparently did not see the long arm of the sea behind Cape Radstock and which in later years received the name of Beard's Bay. The riddle of Venus and Beard's Bays was still to be solved. Eyre's plan seems to indicate that he recognised that Venus Bay did not extend to Cape Radstock. There is a considerable amount of uncertainty as to when the names were applied and what and whose memories are perpetuated.

Stephens relates that for the return voyage, the 21st, 22nd and 23rd provided a series of successive calms and contrary winds, so it was not until noon of Saturday the 23rd they again anchored in Coffin's Bay to replenish their supply of fresh water and fire wood. They sailed at 3 p.m. on the 24th with contrary winds, so made very few miles southing. They remarked on "a large bluff looking rock with two peaks visible for a considerable distance lying about 7 or 8 miles south of Greenly's Island and not shown on Flinders' chart. Presumably now known as Rocky Island.

Here it might be mentioned that Flin \ders named a Rocky Island near Point Drummond. So on our maps we have two islands bearing the same name not far distant from each other. John Cannon six months later when returning from Fowler's Bay also commented on this rock not being shown on any chart.

We now arrive at a puzzle introduced by Stephens. On the 25th he stated that during the previous night and that day "the wind gradually favoured us so that at 8 p.m. we were about nine miles to the south of the Neptune Islands, steering a strait course through Investigator Straits to return to Adelaide." That ends his journal as far as we know.