End of Hack's Exploratory Trip

From the top of Mount Ive, Hack saw there was a general and marked change for the better: first rate salt bush with little grass, with little or no scrub. Lynch had found water, which received his name, two or three miles to the north, the hole in the creek was not large, but the spring was so strong that the 14 horses made no impression on it. Ten or 12 miles to the south of Mount Ive was a remarkable isolated range, which at the request of Harris, was named Freeling Range, after the Surveyor-General.

Wolgulta had previously pointed in the direction saying there was a strong spring there called Parculboo. From Lynch's Creek the party steered north-east, and in about three miles crossed Warburton's track again, going toward the Great Lake. Good country led to a hill which was named Mount Partridge, the party arriving there on September 1. The margin of the lake was five or six miles to the north, and another supply of excellent salt was procured. Rockwell Creek was next visited, with its deep well in the rock, and with plenty of reeds around it and in the creek. This day Mr. Miller left the party and returned to Streaky Bay, and shortly afterwards made the trip north of that bay in company with W. Dutton. Hack's commendation was that in Miller's departure he had lost "an agreeable companion and a most efficient assistant."

Porcupine now gave place to grass on the hills, but trouble was again experienced in providing water, a thorough search revealed two good creeks, which he named Clarke's and Pagan's, Pagan, a horse, being the discoverer of the one bearing his name. The range from this point begins to break off, and in 30 miles runs out into low hills toward Baxter's Range. Clarke's and Pagan's creeks were the last permanent water found before reaching Baxter's Range, leaving a gap of about 70 miles without water, but the good country continued all the way. J. MacDouall Stuart, who travelled from Streaky Bay to Mount Arden the following year, did not enthuse over this part of the country.

CONDITION OF HORSES

Hack in his report as to the condition of his horses is not very consistant. At one time he said that the horses by this time were lame for want of shoes and prevented him from searching for water on this last section, and shortly afterwards he said the horses were all in good condition. The country was viewed from the top of all the hills, and from the top of Mount Separation, the parting point of Hack and Harris, no end of good country could he seen. With the aid of the glass, high ranges in the far north could be distinguished. Harris on his return journey looked for these hills, and not finding them came to the conclusion that mirage had misled Hack. The same may have applied to Cocotap. Hack felt sure that to the north there was an extensive tract of good country and with the aid of natives to locate water a, route should easily be discovered.

The term Wingilpin "the land just round the corner," apparently was not then known to Hack. He was satisfied that the true route to the north was between Lakes Torrens and Gairdner. At that time it was not known that Lake Torrens was separated from the lake subsequently named Lake Eyre. Provisions running short, and the six months' limit being almost expired, Hack on September 13 decided to return to the settled districts. Harris was sent back to Cooeyana to evacuate that camp, and get rid of the stores left there. Hack spoke very highly of the whole staff and "Mr. Harris did not seem to know the meaning of the word 'trouble' where any surveying was in question."

HACK JUSTIFIES ACTION

After reaching Adelaide Hack gave an account of the whole trip. In that report he justified his action in deviating from his instructions, saying that west of a line drawn north from Streaky Bay would have taken him through nothing but useless scrub — this was confirmed at Yarlbinda — and he would have missed the Gawler Range country altogether (and most likely his bonus). Beyond Yarlbinda there was only a "level sea of scrub without a hill or rise of any sort to indicate the existence of water."

He reported having found and laid down on the map an exclusive and good country with sufficient permanent water to warrant its immediate occupation. It was 100 miles in length from east to west and of a width varying from 20 to 50 miles. In addition, he had discovered another patch 60 to 70 miles from east to west and from 20 to 30 miles in width, but unfortunately owing to the condition of the horses he was unable to search for permanent water.

On November 10, 1857, Harris submitted his plan of the route of the expedition, shewing an available area of 4,500 square miles. The ranges, it was said in the accompanying report, were generally valueless, barren and covered with spinifex. Some geological specimens were submitted, but he regretted that he was unable to get seeds of the beautiful clianthus (Sturt pea) and other plants, the seed pods not being ripe. It was considered that Lake Gairdner extended from north of Separation Hill to north of Yarlbinda. It was found out afterwards that the lake seen from Mount Separation was not connected with Lake Gairdner. It subsequently received the name Lake McFarlane. Babbage in 1858 also thought that that lake was part of Lake Gairdner, but not being certain he used the term "the great salt lake." Also, the gap between lakes Gairdner and Harris apparently had not been mentioned by the blacks. Harris considered the dip of the country to be to the north-east and that the level of the country there was below sea level. It was found out afterwards that Lake Eyre was below sea level, but he erred when he surmised that Lake Gairdner was connected with Lake Torrens.

HACK CRITICISED BY PUBLIC

It took Harris from September 13 to 28 to reach Cooeyana, the condition of the horses being such that it was painful to ride or drive them. Price Maurice, who was to have taken the surplus stores, had disposed of his run. Therefore the stores had to be carted to Calca, so it was not until October 19 that Harris finally left Streaky Bay, reaching Port Lincoln on October 31. Evidently Hack was publicly criticised for departing from his instructions, so he wrote to the "Register" toward the end of January, again justifying his action.

As I was drafting this article on Hack's expedition, Mr. E. E. Larcombe of Concord, west New South Wales, a foremost research worker on the Leichhardt mystery sent me a map showing the result of Donald MacKay's aerial survey made in 1935, of the country between Stuart's Range (Coober Pedy opal field) and Laverton, Western Australia. This area in present-day maps is shown as a a blank space. From this reconnaissance, the details of the country have been filled, but as regards this article the following is an outstanding statement having been written of the plains by the photographer and observer on the plane:- "The country in the area mapped is the worst I have seen in Australia. Seventy-five per cent of it is sand ridge country, very heavily timbered with thick mulga and of little use for anything."

INHOSPITABLE COUNTRY

It was said there were few aborigines in the country flown over, only 20 camps being indicated by smoke signals. On the South Australian side of the border (129 deg.), the features and remarks on this new man, north of the railway line from the border to Barton and from there across to Coober Pedy, are instructive, This area might be outside the possible scope of Hack's expedition but his instructions were to go to the north-west corner of the province. This aerial map, shows outside the Nullarbor Plains, just one series of sandhills alongside of another, with such remarks as low sandridge, bare sand patch, thick mulga, claypan, plenty of salt lakes and very few plains. So viewing this map. Hack apparently did well to keep outside this area when searching for good pastoral land that would possibly bring him a bonus of £300. This country has been traversed by explorers since Hack's day, but those explorations, except for the coastal portions are outside the scope of this work. Those explorers had something at the end to aim at, but Hack had nothing at all, only the boundary line of South Australia. Shortly after Hack's return, the Gawler Range district was cut up into 20 runs. Warburton must have had a plan out with him in 1858, showing these runs, for he refers to Run No. 4. Probably the land being thrown open for selection was also the cause of the Hon. S. Davenport's trip in 1858. Anthony Forster, writing in 1866 said that "the Gawler Ranges district is tolerably well grassed, and would be an excellent place for stock, if water could be easily obtained. But it is singularly deficient of that important element and has in consequence remained comparatively untenanted."

(Another Instalment Next Week.)