First Monument At Stamford Hill A Ruin Within 20 Years

This may be a suitable point to bring in Nathaniel Hailes' description of Stamford Hill and his work in connection with the obelisk. Personally I have never climbed the hill, much to my regret, but I can imagine that Hailes' description to be fairly accurate. In his "Recollections" he said, "It is a bluff eminence of almost perpendicular ascent, indeed, it is unascendable on all sides but one and that one is sufficiently steep to task to the utmost, well knit human joints and lungs of the moist leathern toughness."

He then states that when in February, 1802, Flinders and his midshipman stood on the top of the mount "they were probably the first Europeans who had behald at one view the shores of Spencer's Gulf and the clusters of islands with which the gull is thickly studded."

But the most important part of his picturesque tale is the following, though it is regretted that the dates of the visits are not recorded. "It became part of my official duty to ascend the hill twice, first to see a commemorative obelisk commenced and a second time to report the completion of the work.'' It will be remembered that Hailes went to Port Lincoln in March, 1842. and remained there until the end of 1844. Therefore the work was done between these two dates.

Probably to few is given the chance to climb the hill. To those who have not been given the chance, Hailes' description will be enlightening. "I was much struck with the living map which extends for many miles in all directions of sea and shore and islands, in fact, I beheld the very scene which for the first time burst on the vision of Flinders and Franklin on the very day of my birth. The weather was unusually warm for Port Lincoln, but on the summit of the hill a thick cloak would have conduced to my comfort. The obelisk was built by order and at the expense of Lady Franklin, whose conjugal devotion induced her to scale the formidable Stamford Hill and gaze on the scene which had been witnessed by her heroic husband 40 years before. The column, now a landmark is visible in clear weather for many miles, but when first distinguished in extreme distance, although in reality of considerable altitude, it appears to be exceedingly diminutive. The building stone of Port Lincoln being soft, Lady Franklin at considerable expense caused stone to be imported from Tasmania."

INSPECTION OF MONUMENT

Flinders in his 'Terra Australis' does not say that Franklin accompanied him to the hill, but as he took an active interest in Franklin, it is most probable he did, so that we hope Hailes and other writers are correct when they make that assertion. Possibly among the 100,000 odd documents in the archives there may be some particulars not yet brought to light, but the next definite information is that on April 12, the Surveyor General asked His Excellency to instruct the Government Resident to inspect the monument which "will shortly, be completed." The response to this was that on April 19, 1844, the Colonial Secretary, A. M. Mundy, wrote to the Government Resident, Port Lincoln : — "I have the honor to enclose copy of an agreement, signed by Samuel Lewis, stone mason in this city, and to request that you will be good enough to visit the monument to which it refers, erected by Lady Franklin to the memory of Captain Flinders, and that you will report whether all the terms of the agreement have been fully complied with. It would likewise be desirable that you should obtain the opinion and certificate, of some other competent person. Until your report is received the contractor will not be paid for the work."

The Government Resident under date 10/6/1844 reported that on the 7th of the same month that he went to the monument in the Governor Gawler, accompanied by Mr. Underwood and Mr. Sidrey (a stone mason). Mr. Driver found that the dimensions of the monument agreed fairly well with the stipulated ones. The foundation was laid on the granite rock. The tablet was neatly and apparently well inlaid on the pedestal. The stones had been neatly wrought and rubbed smooth, but he feared that they could not be considered "substantially set." Some of the stones were extremely thin and so ineffectually put together that they could be separated with the hands. The mortar was considered " by no means good," and his final opinion was "I much fear that the structure will speedily fall into a state of decay, a result which will no doubt be aided by the long immersion which the stones had undergone in sea water." Mr. Sidrey's certificate shows that the plinth was 8ft. square and 2ft. high. The pedestal was 6ft. 7in. square by a height of 9ft. 1½in. The fillet 7ft. square and 6in. high. Commencement of the shaft on the fillet 5ft. 6in. The total height was given from 23 to 34 ft., but subsequent writers quote the height as 25ft., which is right I cannot say.

BROKEN AND CRUMBLED

Captain E. Underwood stated he had examined the work and said it appeared very neatly executed, but the plates of stone forming the lower part did not appear to be so substantially put together as to ensure durability. He handled one or two stones and found them loose. On removing one he found the interior filled with blocks of granite and earth.

What was the outcome of the very adverse reports on the monument is not known, but it is no wonder that almost within 20 years the structure had to be rebuilt.

Arising out of the inspection we get an insight into the difficult task that Captain Grey, the Governor had to perform. Mr. Driver asked for instructions how the expense of £1 5/ in surveying the monument was to be met. The Governor advised him though the amount was small he could not see how it could be paid from public funds. He was satisfied that it would be disallowed by the auditors in England. Captain Frome said he had no funds to meet the expense and if it could not be paid by the Government he would have to apply to Sir J. Franklin's agent at Hobart Town to liquidate it.

When Mr. Henderson of the Survey Department returned from Port Lincoln in 1842, he left behind a tent. Mr. Lewis had the use of it during the course of the construction of the obelisk, then Mr. Driver asked if he could use it for his district visiting. Mr. Henry Holroyd, one time Inspector of Police, with a party visited the monument, and probably it was the result of that trip that the monument was rebuilt. It is unfortunate that in his autobiography that Mr. Holroyd does not give the date of the trip. He states that the day was exceedingly hot ; the heat, the glare of the sand and the absence of any trees or shade, spoilt what would otherwise have been a pleasant trip. They toiled up the steep ascent, a weary scramble, but they were rewarded by a magnificent view of the desolate but wondrous landscape and beyond that the Southern Ocean. The sea was of a sparkling blue and the mighty waves rolled and dashed against the rocky promontory of Sleaford Bay. It was a sublime and impressive scene, recalling to one's memory the words of the grand old hymn :

' Eternal Father strong to save
Whose arm doth bind the restless wave,
Who bidd'st the mighty ocean deep
It's own appointed limits keep.
O hear us when we cry to Thee
For those in peril on the sea.'

It filled the mind of our small party with a feeling of awe at the grandeur and majesty of the creator. How different from man's work, the monument we had come to inspect, though built with infinite labor and expense, it was in a ruinous state. The marble slab with the inscription had fallen down and lay upon the ground, cracked and broken. The stonework had been loosened and much mortar fallen out. Of course the spot was open to every frightful blast of wind and rain and had been erected some 20 years previously. I reported the matter by letter to the Government and some time afterwards skilled workmen were sent from Adelaide and the monument was properly restored."