Friendly Attitude of Native Parties

Eyre did not allow himself any respite after arrival at Streaky Bay. November 4 and 5 were devoted to loading what equipment could be spared on to the Waterwitch, shearing the sheep and generally getting ready for departure 'Westward Ho.' The cutter was to travel along the coast, depositing water at appointed places until arrival at Fowler's Bay.

Eyre describes Streaky Bay harbor as extensive, generally open, the southern bight well sheltered and suitable for vessels of modest draft, being protected by a long sandy shoal, and states that Cannan had made a survey of it in 1839.

(In a previous article I said the Public Library Board was endeavoring to get a copy of Cannan's full report, which Governor Gawler had apparently sent to England. The Archivist (Mr. G. H. Pitt) on behalf of the board, has now advised me that the British Record Office has made a diligent search, and is unable to trace the Governor's despatch, and consequently cannot find Cannan's report, This is much to be regretted. — J.D.S.)

On November 6, an early start was made, and by noon the first water left by the cutter was reached. The night's camp, made after a journey of 18 miles, was about the middle of the bay. The country passed through was low, level and sandy, and covered with prickly grass, with a few tea tree swamps, but no fresh water was encountered. On November 7 they moved out of camp at break of day, to encounter heavier timber of eucalyptus and very large and dense tea tree. The axe men found the work so strenuous that only slow progress for 17 miles could be made, which brought the party to behind Point Brown. A miniature well was found there, 10 ft. deep, the opening through the limestone crust being only 15 ins., but increasing afterwards. We can picture the thinnest man in the party being lowered down, to clean out the rubbish before water could be procured, and then not adequate enough for their use.

Eyre remarks that in passing through small grassy openings, he noticed remains of trees of larger growth than existed in the scrub. He considered that that part of Australia had recently (geologically) been raised above sea level and was gradually undergoing amelioration which may one day fit it for the purpose of pasture or agriculture.''

SALT WATER WELL

The following day Smoky Bay was reached in I4 miles, the country some what rougher, the sand ridges being steeper with much dead timber lying on the ground. The Waterwitch again landed water, but this did not deter Eyre from setting the men to dig a well 15 ft. through loose sand, only to be rewarded with an abundant supply of "dreadfully salt water."

The 9th was spent in camp, the salt water was salter than the day previous, so water was obtained from the cutter. After supplying this, she was despatched to Denial Bay. On this day natives approached to get water, and soon became friendly and remained there all night. They stated there was no water inland, but some about two days' journey along the coast. Eyre noticed that the men had been subjected to an extraordinary ceremonial which, so far as he knew, was not practised except in that district and westward. Mr. Tindale (ethnologist of the South Australian Museum) tells me it is adopted in the desert part of Central Australia and western Australia, and well into the Northern Territory. It is also common, in some of the islands of the north of Australia, and a few places in Central Africa and the Northern part of South America. The scientists of the present day are unable to account for the remarkable operation.

After the day's rest Eyre got the party away by 5 a.m. on the 10th, with one of the natives, Wiguldy, as guide. The balance of the tribe followed, finding their food as they trudged along — snakes, lizards, guan as, bandicoots, rats, wallabies. A mallee hen's nest was discovered, the natives rushing to get the eggs. Although Eyre had seen these mounds previously, he did not know what they were nor what they contained. Eyre gives a minute description of the nest.

The south-east corner of Denial Bay was reached in 18 miles, about 11 a.m., after having passed through heavy sandy country, for the most part densely covered with eucalyptus and tea tree. The cutter was about eight miles out, and water had to be " boated " to the shore.

On November 11, by going fairly straight, Wilguldy made the promised water in 12 miles, by noon. The native name of the waterhole was 'Beelimah Gaippe,' with the addition of a few bars and half-moons over some of the vowels, which I am afraid the linotype machine will not reproduce! The road had been better, but the brush was still dense. Water was procured by digging a well 4 ft. deep in the swamp behind the coastal hummocks, which were of white sand, high and bare.

AXEMEN'S HEAVY TASK

After encamping, more natives from about Point Peter joined the party. These also stated there was no water inland, but there was water at 'Berinyana Gaippe ' (with bars and half-moons omitted) near Point Bell. The two parties of natives were friendly, and well conducted. Water and grass being plentiful, the party remained there the following day, and on November 13, guided by the natives, in a stage of 14 miles the water was reached. The axemen were constantly at work clearing a track through the dense scrub. The waterhole was among the sand hummocks, a little north of Point Bell, and on being enlarged an abundant supply of excellent water was obtained.

On the 14th a short stage of 10 miles, through very sandy and scrubby country brought them to the next watering place, 'Wademar Gaippe,' where abundance of good water was obtained at a depth of 4ft. The route had been more to the north to avoid the coastal salt lakes and low swamps. There was a large sheet of salt water near the camp, presumably Lake Macdonnell, as named by Geharty many years afterwards. Eyre and his black boy enjoyed a swim in it. A fresh water hole was found on its edge, providing a drink for the bathers. Ducks, teal and pigeons were plentiful.

It took until about 4 p.m. on the 15th to do a stage of about 14 miles, through a succession of steep sandy ridges covered with salt water tea tree. The water hole was known as 'Mobeela Gaippe' (near Clare Bay today). This day's journey was breaking into new country, as Eyre had previously only reached about the 133rd degree longitude which passes through Lake Macdonnell. Men and horses were knocked up with the day's hard toil, but still the men were not finished when they arrived at the camp, for there was a well through sand to be sunk. The native wells, although sunk through loose sand, were only two feet in diameter, quite circular, carried straight down and the work was beautifully executed. Those accustomed to sinking wells in sand will appreciate the great art exercised by the natives and can imagine the size of the excavation by the time the white party had got down 15 feet. It was 8 p.m. before they could start watering the horses, and 9 p.m. before they had two buckets each.

They remained in that camp the next day. The well had to be cleared out again, then a barrel was placed in the bottom, so that by 1 p.m, all the horses and sheep had been watered, when the sides again collapsed.

The country through which they had been travelling for some days produced mesembryanthemum in abundance, and its fruit was found to be a favorite and important article of food with the natives. Following their example Eyre and party partook of it freely and found it very refreshing in the hot weather. More natives came into the camp this day, and were fed on rice. The other natives by this time had learnt to drink tea, eat damper and meat, which were given them for "service rendered."

NATIVE WOMEN DECAMP

Making an early start on November 17, still guided by the natives, the route of 12 miles around the head of Fowler's Bay brought the party to a small water hole dug between the sandy ridges. Eyre, being in the van, surprised some native women and children at their camp, roasting their midday meal. Being afraid, they scampered off, leaving their food behind. The natives accompanying Eyre, coming up, had a luxurious meal at the expense of the women and children. These females were the first seen for some time, for according to Eyre, themen seemed to keep the women out of sight, which he put down to the conduct of the whalers and sealers with whom they might have come into contact.

Soon after encamping more natives joined the party. Eyre speaks very highly of the natives accompanying the party. In view of the character ascribed to them a few years afterwards, it is illuminating to quote his remarks : "They were exceedingly polite and orderly — indeed the best-conducted, most obliging natives I ever met with, —never troubling or importuning for anything, and not crowding around in that unmannerly disagreeable manner, which savages frequently adopt, nor did I ever find any of them guilty of theft ; on the contrary, several times when we had left some article behind, they called to us and pointed it out.

" To them we were indebted for the facilities we had enjoyed in obtaining water ; for without their guidance, we could never have removed from any encampment without previously ascertaining where the next water could be procured. .... Upon arriving at any of the watering places to which they had conducted as, they always pointed out the water, and gave it up to us entirely, no longer looking upon it as their own, and literally not taking a drink from it themselves when thirsty, without first asking permission from us.

" Surely this true politeness — this genuine hospitality of the untutored savage, may well put to the blush, for their exclusiveness and illiberality, his more civilized brethren."

Eyre remarks that all the natives with him had been subjected to the singular ceremony referred to pre \viously and those recently met, in addition had a scar caused by the application of fire to the upper part of the stomach. The tribes on the River Murray had a similar scar, but on the chest instead. According to Eyre, the natives between Fowler's Bay and the River Murray did not use this mark, and he could not learn at either place for what purpose it was made or the significance of it.