Freycinet's Visit to Port Lincoln

With this article Mr. Somerville closes his account of the French exploration of Eyre Peninsula, under the direction of Capt. Nicolas Baudin. 

On November 18, 1802, Baudin left Port Jackson in Le Geographe, accompanied by Le Naturaliste and Le Casuarina. The last-mentioned boat, of 30 or 40 tons, had been purchased by Baudin, with the permission of the Government. At King Island Le Naturaliste left for France, taking specimens, survey notes and other papers. The other two ships sailed westward. 

At Kangaroo Island, Freycinet, in Le Casuarina, was given instructions to survey the two gulfs (St. Vincent and Spencer). He was allowed less than a month to carry out the work, and only sufficient provisions for that period. The instructions were faithfully carried out, a good survey being made of the two gulfs, Port Lincoln and Boston Bay (Port Champagny). 

On making the rendezvous, Freycinet found that Baudin had just sailed away. He followed as fast as his boat would permit — a 30 ton boat racing a 450 ton ship ! He lost sight of the larger ship during the night. Baudin evidently repented his rash and ungenerous action, put about and returned to the island. 

However, the captain of Le Casuarina did not see that manoeuvre. He sailed westward, and then made for Nuyts Archipelago, where it was anticipated Le Geographe would be overtaken, but it was too late. Baudin's return to Kangaroo Island was fruitless, for Le Casuarina was not there and with his usual disregard for the welfare of those under him he sailed westward, until about due south of Streaky Bay, when a northerly course was made and the survey of the coastline previously omitted was made. 

CREW IN DEPLORABLE CONDITION 

A boat was detailed to make a complete survey of the coastline behind Nuyts Archipelago, after which Le Geographe traced the coast westward to near Cape Adieux and then made for King George's Sound. Le Casaurina, not finding Le Geographe also sailed for the same port, where she fortunately made contact. Freycinet's crew was in deplorable condition. His had been provisioned for one month, and that time was fully occupied on the survey, after which he had to sail to King George's Sound before he could get further provisions. 

Judging by the distance Le Geographe kept away from the coast in the 1802 trip, it appears that little work was done on Eyre Peninsula that year ; the greater part of the survey was performed in the 1803 trip by the two boats. The history of the expedition was published in three volumes and two atlases. 

Volume I was issued about 1807, and edited by M. Peron. This volume was translated into English and published in 1809. M. Peron started on Volume II, but died in 1810 before completing it. Freycinet then took in hand its completion and also Volume III. Unfortunately these latter two volumes have not been tendered into English. An atlas was issued fairly early, containing the first complete map of Australia, and one of Napoleon's Land, the latter shown as extending from the eastern end of Nuyte land to Port Western, also sundry maps of bays and ports, and a fine collection of pictures. In 1812 Freycinet issued a large atlas showing the route of the ships, coastline soundings, and so on. As Volumes II and III are in French, I rely entirely on the English translation of Volume I for the French opinion of the exploration of Eyre Peninsula. 

PORT LINCOLN PRAISED 

Peron describes Port Lincoln as " one of the finest and safest harbors of all New Holland : the soundings even close in shore, are from 10 to 12 fathoms, and the extent of the port is so large that there is sufficient room for very numerous fleets." Boston Island, which received the French name of Isle Lagrange, in the mouth of the bay, formed " on each side a passage of two or three miles in width," both easy and safe to work and " finally as if nature particularly favored the Port Champagny (Port Lincoln), the general appearance of sterility is here no longer seen." It is most probable that Freycinet, when making his survey, did not go up to the head of Port Lincoln (Proper Bay). The remarks quoted would therefore refer to Boston Bay. 

Freycinet entered by the northern and left by the southern passage. The French had just previously followed the south-eastern coastline, and the strip from (say) Kingston to the Murray mouth is of the most uninviting character and would leave a very unfavorable impression. In Port Lincoln they did not discover any fresh water, but it is possible Freycinet did not devote any time to the search, because he was scheduled back to his commander by a specific date and the survey of the coastline was to him paramount. The vegetation was strong and healthy, and judging by the number of fires seen, the French considered that there existed numerous natives. 

"So many superior advantages belonging particularly to the Port Champagny insures it a very great degree of importance, and we may without hesitation assert that of all the points of this land, this is the most proper for the establishment of a European colony." 

POOR IMPRESSIONS OF ISLANDS 

Peron is no more enthusiastic about the islands along the coast than was Flinders : " These isles are low, barren, and of a sombre hue : most of them do not produce a tree or shrub; the lichen alone seems to creep over the surface of the ground."  He further states that there was no water or sign of any inhabitants on them. 

An examination was made behind St. Francis and St. Peter Islands for the supposed strait that would divide Australia into two parts, or alternatively a large river. The suppositions were not confirmed, neither one or the other could be found ; all that could be discovered was that "this last part of New Holland, although of a somewhat more varied aspect than the rest of Napoleon's Land, appears quite as sterile, and whatever part of it we visited on shore, had but too much conformity to this general appearance : — Sterilis profundi (vastitas) squalet soli, Et foeda tellus torpet aeterno situ. (Seneca, in Here, fur.)," which has been translated as : " The barren desert of the abysmal fields lies all unfilled, and the foul land lies torpid in endless sloth." 

Peron says they encountered " hurricanes and storms, shoals and breakers." In the first year they had twice endeavored to explore Spencer Gulf with Le Geographe, and twice they failed. A severe storm on one occasion threatened the destruction of the ship, but by " incessant labor and exertion " the storm was weathered out. Scurvy was rampant, death had taken its toll, and nearly half of the seamen were incapable of carrying out their work. It was a doleful tale that Peron had to recite for the benefit of the French nation. 

Three quarters of a bottle of stinking water was their ration, no wine, no brandy, but instead a bad sort of rum was issued. Biscuits were full of insects and salt provisions were putrid and rotten, so bad that the seamen often threw the rations into the sea. There were no comforts for the sick and no consolations from the superior officer " which are so grateful to the feelings of all men." Officers and men were all reduced to the same allowance. 

The following names are shown on the map of South Australia and the Admiralty chart, serving as a reminder of the work performed by the French Expedition (the last seven names were inserted at the request of Comte de Fleurieu about 20 years ago) : — Cape Adieu, Geographe Reef, Isles of St. Francis, Masillon I., Fenelon I., Tourville Bay, C. Beaufort, Murat Bay, C. Thevenard, C. Vivonne, De Cres Bay, C. D'Estree, C. Missiessy, Covisart Bay, D'Anville Bay, C. Carnot, C. Tournefort, Jussieu Bay, C. Colbert, Massena Bay, C. Euler.