Capt. H. C. Hawson's Exploration

Before considering the next exploratory trip, notice must be taken of a very notable event, the arrival of the French whaler, barque Mississippi (Capt. Rossiter) on October 8, 1839, creating another milestone in the history of Port Lincoln. This was the first oversea boat to enter the harbor after the local settlement, and her entry created great excitement, but not quite so much as had it been one direct from England.

Capt. Rossiter had been for some time at Coffin's Bay, and he said that he had seen a large lake in the neighborhood, surrounded with cedar trees. The "Port Lincoln Herald" in reporting this, said that the bearings of the lake from Mount Greenly was known, and that a party was about to proceed to the spot. The captain was able, at Port Lincoln, to procure plenty of fish and vegetables for the crew. He also took in an abundant supply of fresh water, and probably what cheered the hearts of the settlers most, he landed two or three casks of good "cogniac." The vessel was in port for nine days, and left for New Zealand, the captain promising to return again, his intention being to remain some time longer on the coast.

Mr. Matthew Smith said that there was a belt of red gum trees running from a lagoon three miles west of Port Lincoln to Coffin's Bay, but not in large quantities, and he considered that it was the red gum trees that Rossiter saw and miscalled them cedar trees.

The Mississippi arrived just before the departure of H. C. Hawson's exploratory party, and he honored the boat and its captain by naming a river and a vale after them. But what the captain will be best remembered by is the kindly act performed in 1841, when he succoured E. J. Eyre on his overland trip to Western Australia. It is extremely doubtful whether Eyre could have completed his journey had he not fallen in with Capt. Rossiter in the Mississippi.

The northern district had not been explored for any great distance, so a party consisting of Captain H. C. Hawson (leader), Messrs. William Smith and Innis and two other men left Port Lincoln on October 17, 1839, in an endeavor to extend the knowledge of the country north of Mount Gawler and north east of the route taken by C. C. Dutton and his party on their home journey.

EYRE SKIRTS FRINGE

Since R. Tod and C. C. Dutton had made their examinations, E. J. Eyre had made a flying expedition to about 50 miles south-west of Mount Arden, after which he returned to Adelaide, and shortly afterwards went to Port Lincoln, leaving there on August 5 on his attempt to get to the western limit of the province by following the coast line. Failing to get beyond Fowler's Bay, he returned to Streaky Bay and made a dash across the northern end of the Peninsula to Mount Arden, reaching Adelaide on October, 15. On October 19 he made his report to the Governor.

Beyond knowing that Eyre had gone north-westerly, Hawson, leaving on October 17, would have no idea what Eyre had done. The expeditions by Tod and Dutton were made on foot ; Capt. Hawson adopted a fresh method, using horses as a means of transport for himself and party.

Leaving Port Lincoln in a northern direction for about three miles, gradually rising hills, when a splendid view of the bay, Thistle Island and surrounding country was obtained. Continuing onwards for 15 or 16 miles, they arrived at the confluence of the Tod and Stevens River about five miles west-north-west of Mount Gawler. The Stevens must have been named by the Dutton party, although not then mentioned. The land passed over was said to be good sheep country, the hills being covered with grass to their summits. Hawson unfortunately lost his compass and the subsequent stages of the journey could not be accurately mapped. After lunch the party reached Cowan's Vale, in the centre of which is Cowan Lake, "but which", it was said, "in reality is part of the Stevens River. The lake is about twenty miles north-north-west of Happy Valley." A kangaroo and several ducks were shot at the lake.

Of the country Hawson said: "Nothing can be imagined more beautiful than the country about this vale, the grass in the flats, being abundant and growing to a great height. The river was ascended until another lake of fresh water, about the same size as Cowan Lake, was met, where the party camped for the night.

EXCELLENT LAND SEEN

The next day (October 18) the journey was continued along the river for about eight miles, when they reached Smith's Valley. This valley was said to be much larger than Cowan's Vale, and contained many thousand acres of excellent land fit for agricultural purposes, and the hills were well adapted for pastoral purposes with plenty of water. The River Stevens was followed along Smith's valley for 15 miles, when it took a westerly direction, running in to a precipitous rocky bed. To me this seems like the junction of the Tod and Pillaworta.

The party then took a northerly direction over grassy eminences and two scrubby hills, when they came to another valley which surpassed others both in extent and beauty, having a large continuous stream - not a chain of water holes - running through the centre. This valley was said to be distinct from the Tod watershed, as its water falls into Spencer's Gulf further north than Louth Bay, where the Tod empties itself. In this valley "one of those beautiful plumed birds, the mountain duck, was shot." The Stevens River must be the Tod of today, and Hawson's northerly direction when leaving the Tod at the bend, must have been a long way out, for a northerly course would have kept him in the Tod watershed, whereas he got to the east of the range.

When the party left Port Lincoln the French whaler, the Mississippi, was either in the port or had just sailed for New Zealand, so the party to honor the first foreign vessel in the port after the settlement named the fine stream the Mississippi and the vale Rossiter Vale. It seems a great pity that these names have fallen out of use, for in them we would be reminded that Capt. Rossiter in the Mississippi was the succourer of E. J. Eyre in 1841. While on this point of names, I am glad that the name of Cowan Vale, has been revived In connection with the storage of additional water for the Peninsula.

RETURN TO PORT LINCOLN

The party took a course north east for about 15 miles along this valley, then a bend more to the eastward over grassy hills for about six miles, which brought them to a very high hill, from which they got a sight of the gulf. The eastward journey was continued until they came to a "level undulating" country at the foot of the hills about 15 miles from the shore. (I have been told that the expression, "level undulating," describes a good deal of the eastern portion of the Peninsula.) Kangaroos were plentiful, and several natives were seen, six of them accompanying the party a considerable distance. It was said that they seemed very friendly.

A return journey home was now made, passing several streams of fresh water, and it was said that "the whole land we saw was available for agricultural and pastoral purposes and a copious and constant supply of fresh water." Happy Valley was reached on the third day at nightfall. Capt. Hawson. summarising the result of the trip, wrote:- "During the whole of our excursion we did not meet with five miles of unavailable land, nor did we ride two hours without water, having been about 150 miles from Happy Valley." The country north of that explored, as far as the eye could see, appeared to be of the same character as they had travelled over.