Hack Continues His Exploratory Work

En route to Streaky Bay, Hack met Gerharty, and was so impressed with his capabilities and knowledge that he asked permission for him to accompany the party. The request was not granted. Possibly it was through Geharty that Hack received the impression that the good country when found might extend beyond the border. In his letter to the Government, he puts the question whether he could go outside the boundary, asking if it were "the wish of the Government for me to follow up any good tract of country I might fall in with or whether I should at all events confine myself to the limits of this colony?" He was given a free hand as to going outside the boundary line, but "it is, however, very desirable that the expedition should not return without the fullest possible information as to the nature of the north western portion of this colony," he was informed.

Fixing up his shed at Cooeyana, transferring stores and getting ready for the trip, occupied the party until June 22, 1857. The party consisted of Hack, the leader; W. G. Harris, the surveyor; T. J. Clarke; R. Lynch; C. Hurley; Braund; Connor and Billy Grant a Sydney native (was this the native who accompanied the Hawkers, on the search for Dutton ?). F. Miller, overseer for Price Maurice, joined as a volunteer and took with him two horses. Two men were left at Cooeyana in charge of the shed and stores, until Harris returned at the completion of the trip.

Leaving Cooeyana, Hack, on the advice of Price Maurice, went east to Parla (30 miles) as he was told that plenty of grass and water would be found, and the desert scrub to the north would he avoided. The dray was left behind, as the scrub indicated that it would prove more of a hindrance than a help.

GOOD COUNTRY AND SALT LAKES

Billy Grant "one of my most useful men became ill." He was the cause of a lot of trouble, first his boots were not a good fit, then later on he had to be left at Parla. Parla had some large water holes in a granite rock on top of a low range, giving a commanding view of the Gawler Range, Mounts Cooper and Hall. Hack, Harris and Grant made a flying trip to the range testing a route to the north-west. It was 40 miles to the range. About 15 miles from Parla a fine grassy country was designated "Hope Downs."

Toward the end of the trip they had 12 miles of dense scrub to go through, and then met the salt lakes that extend along the range from four to six miles from the base. The range was met at a bare red granite hill which he named Mount Granite, rather unfortunately, causing confusion with a granite hill which Darke had named Granite Mount. At the hill a strong spring of excellent water was found.

A course was then made to another hill which he named Mount Centre, not in reference to the centre of Australia, but its situation in the "middle of a remarkable semi-circular sweep of hills." From that hill an extensive view was obtained, showing the lakes extending north-westerly as far as the eye could see, with very few breaks or crossing places. To the north was a mass of high ranges one behind the other, till they faded in the distance. Hack considered Mount Centre to be about 90 miles south of the line of North West Lake that the Commissioner of Crown Lands had mentioned to him; which he hoped to find in a week or two, if they were to be found. After they left that camp they had, one would think, the surprise of their lives, by crossing "the tracks of Major Warburton and party, about a day or two old. Their horses appeared to he travelling briskly and not dragging their feet. They had several dogs with them." Hack followed these tracks westerly for about six miles, when they turned west, then perforce, through shortage of provisions, the desire to get back to camp and the uncertainty where Warburton's tracks would lead to, the tracking was discontinued and a return made for Parla. The grass through the whole of the tract of country was very good and abundant. The birds seen were crows, spur winged plovers, red-breasted cockatoos, large parrot, a large kind of swallow, brush turkey and black magpies and the track of a native dog was seen.

DEATH OF NATIVE

A delay occurred in getting away from Parla, through Billy Grant's illness, but on July 6, Hack started out with 1,200 lbs. packed on seven horses and on the second day Yarwandutta, a large rock hole, was reached, crossing the Hope Downs en route. Grant was left in camp at Yarwandutta and while he was recuperating. Hack and Harris made an examination near Mount Sturt. Hack found many water holes round Yarwandutta, seeing "Tcharkledoo, Minnepah, Warwar, Podinna, Cbilpuddie and Moolje," all had a certain extent of grazing round them, making them valuable as camping spots, but not sufficient for stations. Tcharkledoo was said by the natives to be permanent. Pelddubba or Gemini Rocks had no grass round them.

On July 9, Hack left Yarwandutta and went as far north as Mount Centre, passing through third-rate country, with evidently no water. In places the lower ranges were thickly sprinkled with sheoak, and were well grassed. On the trip many blacks and many "smokes" were seen; it was with difficulty that Hack got two natives, Membutta and Yandutta, as guides, retaining them for their own district only, when they were released. However, they took a letter into Cooeyana, and another native was taken on, further north.

On returning to Yarwandutta, Hack found that Grant was so bad that he was sent back to Cooeyana in charge of Connor, who was to bring back an equivalent amount of stores as that consumed by the party during the delay. Grant unfortunately did not recover, but died at Cooeyana. A man was engaged from Price Maurice's party to take Grant's place, whether white or black , is not said.

Yarwandutta was finally evacuated on July 21. On July 22, they camped at Ponara, the native well under Mount Granite. On July 23 they camped at Warroona, where good country was seen. From Mount Centre Hack had been sure, that no good country was in sight, so his motto henceforward was never to despair of discovering good country, however bad the appearance may seem from a distance. Kangaroos and emus were more plentiful than previously, and the wombats were unusually large. Toondulxa, a rocky creek with several strong springs, was the next camp. Here were growing forest oaks of large growth with good salt bush.

GOOD WATER AND FEED

With such a good camp and feed Hack decided to remain there over Sunday, July 26. The 27th saw the party at Kondoolea, a fine spring on a grassy flat and all the country good. Leaving the party in camp, Hack rode on to Yarlbinda, a small spring, the country still being good. He ascended the end hill of the Yarlbinda Range, and could see there was no hill of any size to the north-west or north for at least 50 miles. Large "smokes" were visible about 15 miles north, but the guide Toolgutta said nowhere in that direction was there water enough for horses for a long distance.

Very far in the north-west was a country called Narralla (Nakalla ?) with good grass and water, but on this course horses could not be taken. The guide said that 10 sleeps to the east there was a large salt lake, almost an inland sea, with a great number of swans and ducks and large tribes of blacks. This course Hack decided upon, hoping for an opening to the north-west. Hack found the natives to be familiar with all the names of the lakes on the list, that the Commissioner had sent him except the first two, which none of them knew. Although keeping in view that the object of the expedition was to explore the north-west, it would appear that at this stage Hack decided that the exploration of the Gawler Range would be better than going out into the far-away country. The horses were all in first-rate condition. He had with him at Kondoolca, 500 lbs. flour, 160 lbs. sugar, 20 lbs. tea, 60 lbs. rice and 36 sheep, sufficient to last as long as the season would permit of his remaining out.

On his way back to Adelaide, Hack made his second interim report, in which he stated after leaving Kondoola he moved to Yarna, a creek with surface water, at least in winter time. (This year - 1936 - the owner of Yarna said it looked a perfect picture.)

From Yarna to Warrea (August 1) the party passed through second-grade saltbush country, interspersed with grass, large bushes and forest oak. Leaving Warrea on August 2, and passing through useless scrub to Moonaree, the party found a permanent spring of considerable size with good grass adjoining it. Thence to Mendea rock water about 15 miles south-east of Moonaree, and thence to Murnea rock water, the country showing signs of improvement.

GREAT SALT LAKE

"We here got a fair view of the great salt lake of which we had heard so much," Hack states, "and found Major Warburton's track, who had ridden to the top of a hill to get a better view of it." If it turned out to be as important a feature as the first view indicated, he desired to call it after the Governor, but not being the true discoverer he forbade to name it. It will be remembered that Warburton wished the lake to be called Lake Darke, but prior to the receipt of that letter the Governor had used his prerogative, on the receipt of Hack's plan in Adelaide, to call it Lake Gairdner.

It is worth recording what the Governor said when reporting on Hack's expedition to the Colonial Office: "I may here draw your attention to one of the very remarkable features of the country visited by Mr. Hack and previously seen by Major Warburton, the Police Commissioner. I allude to the great salt lake which is of considerable extent, more than 100 miles long. It is probably connected at the northern end with Lake Torrens. Its size and remarkable cliffs projecting into a vast expanse of dazzling salt here and there studded with islands render it one of the most striking objects hitherto met with in Australian scenery. I have taken the liberty of calling it 'Lake Gairdner.' after the gentleman whose long and faithful service in the Australian Department of the Colonial Office justly entitled him to some tribute of remembrance from here."

The party got some good salt from the lake and Hack remarked that there was any quantity of it. From the highest hill, nothing could be seen to the north "but a perfect horizon of salt." A high range 60 deg. east of south could be seen, but northward no high land was visible. The hills to the east of south would most probably be the prolongation of the Gawler Range. From Murnea the road lay to Corrieridda, a creek similar to Yarna, thence to Yarinda rock water and then to Kundery, a large permanent spring. The whole of this country was said to be first-rate, chiefly salt bush and good grass, being bounded on the east by the great lake and extending west to Warroona.

(Another Instalment Next Week.)