Carb Jetting
It is rarely necessary to purchase a "jet kit" to correctly set up the V Star 1100 carbs. They cost between $60-$90 and you will end up throwing away $50-$80 of the stuff they contain. Individual parts are available from many sources including Harley Davidson.
Follow all of the instructions below, including the use of jetting chart and simply purchase the jets listed. Generally they run from $7-$10 each. Make sure they are the Mikuni brand. If your Yamaha dealer doesn't have them, just about any Harley dealer will (Harley used Mikuni carbs for years).
Make sure you get the "small round" main jets and all will be well! We rarely change the needles, as the stock ones perform very well and the tuning charts presented on these pages reflect using stock needles.
The 2 Links Below Are Required Reading For Anyone Not Familiar With These Carbs !
Required Watching !
Carb Schematic: The Functioning Carb
Jetting Instructions
"THE JETTING BIBLE" - or - How To Change The Jets on a V Star 1100 "Step By Step Guide"
NOTE: This is a "How To" guide for jetting the Mikuni carbs on the V Star 1100. It is for general reference only. There are hundreds of different jetting and needle set ups....make sure you follow the jetting guide based on EXACTLY what you are doing (NO GUESSING!)This is a reference guide for the BSR37/2 Mikuni carb only.
VERY IMPORTANT! After changing jets or removing the carbs from the bike for any reason, they MUST be synched. This is not optional....it is mandatory to insure proper tuning. It is also good practice to check the synch at least once a year.
NOTE: When removing the carbs from the bike (per above instructions) remember to loosen the hold-on clamps all the way. This will make it much easier to get the carbs back into the bike. Also, use a little spit in the carb flanges that go into the engine "holes" - it's a good temporary lube and will dry out - so the carbs will not pop out later, which can happen if you use a true lube (oil, grease, etc)
Some supplemental pictures - courtesy of drenfro22:
1. Late models - 4 Connectors to separate - Also shows breather hose (was connected to air-box)
2. Boot connection to cylinder
3. Boot connection to air-box (rear cycl.)
4. Boot connection to air-box (front cycl.)
Carb Jetting 101: The Basics...
Note: Not all carb manufactures call parts the same name. In above drawing
Pilot air screw and jet = PMS screws
Throttle valve cutaway = Pilot Jets in terms of working range
Needles = Needles
Main = Main
Other Jets - ones we do NOT need to change unless specified by an aftermarket manufacturer:
Pilot Air Bleeds - no change except to undo mistakes by poor jetting
Starter Jets - Used by the starting process, advancing the "choke" / enricher lever opens access to this jet, enriching mixture to aid in starting.
Needles:
Removing shims = Leaner
Adding shims = Richer
When adding a shim you are moving the taper away from the "opening" and allowing more fuel to pass.
Needles with notches and clips, UP = Leaner, Down = Richer - as you are allowing the needle to move down less - (both refer to clip position relative to the top or blunt end of the needle)
What Jets To Use
Hypercharger - From Kuryakyn:
With stock exhaust or Cobra Slip-On Mufflers
• 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs
• One .020 shim added to raise each needle
• 122.5 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb
• 120 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb
• Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed
With Vance & Hines, Samson, or open “Drag” pipes
• 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs
• One .020 shim added to raise each needle
• 125 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb
• 122.5 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb
• Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed
Comparison of stock and and the Pilot Air Bleeds supplied in the Kuryakyn Hypercharger Kit. Stock is on the left.
-Thanks to RickF68 for the images.
Barons Big Air Kit - Input from Squirrel aka Rob Lewis
I would like to share what I learned installing a Barons Big Air Kit on my '07 1100 Classic. Hopefully this can give you a start for the BAK's. My setup is:
'07 Classic Cobra Slash Cut Slip-ons Comet BAK Altitude : 1058 feet
17.5 Stock Pilot Jet
Stock Starter Jet
117.5 Front Main Jet
115.0 Rear Main jet
Stock Needles with +1 shim
Stock float height
The Barons air kit arrives with a jet kit for the 1100 Mikuni carbs. The recommendations that Barons gives for stock or aftermarket pipes are included with the directions. They provide original Mikuni main jets in 107.5 & 110 for Stock bikes, and 112.5 & 115 for aftermarket pipes.( Slip-ons, or Full Systems). Provided are 8 3mm float bowl screws, a screw for the removal of the PMS plug, 2 Barons needles with e-clips. (Note: these are DynaJet needles)
I installed the recommended main jets of 115 front & 112.5 rear, with Barons needles on the 4th notch and PMS set at 4 turns out. Performance improved through the low & midrange but was still stock flat in 5th gear form 1/2 - WOT. These main jet sizes are 1 size up from stock on the '07 model year bikes.
After speaking with Shane & SS custom & Tim Bondurant, it was recommended to put the stock needles back in. Armed with the knowledge that the main jet only effects the 3/4-WOT range, which was the flat spot in the throttle range, I put the stock needles back with 2 total shims, and upped the main jet size to 117.5 front & 115 rear. The idle circuit seemed rich so I closed up the PMS to 2.75 turns. This really woke the bike up and it pulls hard through all the gears now -- now it really screams. I can cruise 65-70mph now in 4th, where previously, it was hard to keep 70mp in 5th.
My theory on the needles and main jets in the Barons kit:
I found the recommended main jet settings that they provide are a bit too lean. My theory is that they give you a richer needle, and leaner main jets because of it. This gives good midrange performance, but leaves the top end lacking. Going up 1 more size on the mains made all the difference in the world on the top end. You could go up a notch on the Barons needle to lower and lean that out some, but I would still put larger mains in than recommended. I just prefer the stock needles. Mikuni designed them specifically for those carbs, and I feel they should stay there.
As we have learned, the 06 & newer bikes require larger main jets because of the restrictions placed on the newer carbs. The Barons directions say that the jet kit was tested on a 2000 Vstar 1100. Well the 2000 does not have the carb restrictions that the newer model years have and I feel, even after speaking to Barons, that the jet kit needs to be revamped for the '06 and newer model years. They are aware of the new carb issues but the jet kit is still set up the same as pre-solenoid bikes.
Jet Recommendations for Pods
Retail Pod kits come with the jets you will need, as well as instructions on which jets to use and how to set PMS and Needles. Follow the manufacturers instructions!!!
The jetting recommendations below are only a good starting point. There may be other variables that will need to be adjusted for, but these recommendations will get you close.
TABLE A
This chart includes jetting recommendations for ALL Years and Models of the V Star 1100.
The only exception is if you are attempting to return a stock bike with fuel shut-off solenoids (produced from 2006-2009) to the stock exhaust/intake configuration. In that rare instance, please use table "B".
PLEASE NOTE!!! There are numbers in parentheses in the chart below (1). These are footnotes. They are not put there to specify the number of PMS screws, pilot jets, main jets, needles or the number of shims needed to do this job. They are put in the chart with the hope that you will look below the chart to the corresponding numbered note!
Notes:
1. Mains - Stock bikes come with staggered main.s. Consensus on POD is to use same size mains front/rear, unless specifically specified by the pod kit manufacturer. Jets are SMALL MIKUNI
2. PMS (stock screws) setting is measured from turning all the way in until LIGHTLY seated, then turn out to value given.
3. Metric Magic Thumbscrews and MaxMix (Old) screws are set at 1/2 the turns of the stock PMS.
4. Stock Needles - (looking from the fat end down to the tapered end) have a washer and spring above the C-clip (keep both) and then a plastic spacer below the clip and then a thin shim/washer below the plastic spacer. For pods, add the specified shim below the plastic spacer. (see picture below)
5. Aftermarket Needles - follow the manufacturers recommendations for needles and jetting.
6. Altitude Impact - The jet recommendations in the above table are for altitudes up to around 4000'. The rule of thumb is to drop one jet size (they are in 2.5 increments) for every 2000-3000 feet rise in elevation after that. For occasional riding at higher altitudes, most riders have no major issues with the standard jetting, however you may need to adjust idle speed slightly.
7. Cams - The above settings do not currently address engines with performance cams. See Cams info below.
8. 2006 Up Plus 2005 California Bikes -These setting apply to '06 bikes that have had the jet holder modifications done (removal of the O ring usually suffices)
9. Performance Pipes: Current list includes: Cobra HP 2-1, PCS Monster Pro 2-2 (despite looks), Roadhouse Classic 2-1, Pro-Race Pipe by S&S Custom Cycle 2-1 and . . . . (See Performance Comparison Section)
10. Altitude Adjustment - Main Jets - drop one size for every 2000-3000 feet rise in elevation
11. It seems that stock pilots (17.5) are working well in most 1100 applications with a pod set up. 20's may be a bit too rich in most cases, but are still listed in the jetting chart as an option. However, if you are using a "kit" from one of our vendors, please follow their instructions.
** We've discovered that simply turning the PMS out an extra 1/4 - 1/2 turn will increase the mixture throughout the throttle range on these bikes. See note below. Main jets can still be changed to 1 step larger, but the PMS adjust can accomplish pretty much the same thing.
***Adjust the PMS so that most, if not all backfire on decel is eliminated. Backfire on decel usually means that it is too lean at idle. You do not have to remove the AIS to eliminate backfire. Proper tuning the PMS will take care of it.
TABLE B
Stock Jet Settings for 06-09 Shut Off Solenoid Bikes - STOCK INTAKE/EXHAUST ONLY !!!-
Refer to Table A for ALL other recommendations!!!
** - Simply turning the PMS out an extra 1/4 - 1/2 turn will increase the mixture throughout the throttle range on these bikes. See note below. Main jets can still be changed to 1 step larger, but the PMS adjust can accomplish pretty much the same thing in many cases.
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SS Custom Cycle/Performance Tuning XVS-1100
429 Cam Kits: With Stock needles (Not For Slip-on Exhausts)
20 Pilots
1 additional shim per needle
3.25 to 3.75 turns out on stock PMS with stock float level & 20 pilots (Start at 3.5)
160 or 162.5 mains (Start with 160)
Above based on the use of a full after-market exhaust system and SSCC's Chubby air kit. Our Flat Slide 39mm carbs are pre-jetted for this application and may only need minor adjustment to the air and pilot mixture screws
429 Cam kits: With SS Performance needles (Not For Slip-on Exhausts)
20 Pilots
SS needles 3rd clip, plastic spacer one shim
3 to 4 turns out on stock PMS with stock float level & 20 pilots (Start at 3.5)
160 or 162.5 mains (Start with 162.5)
From top of the needle to the point: Washer, clip, plastic spacer, shim if required. (Top washer & plastic spacer from stock)
Above based on the use of a full after-market exhaust system and SSCC's Chubby air kit. Our Flat Slide 39mm carbs are pre-jetted for this application and may only need minor adjustment to the air and pilot mixture screws
502 performance kits: Stock carbs (Not For Use With Slip-on Exhausts)
20 Pilots
Stock needles (add 1 additional shim)
3 to 4 turns out on stock PMS with 20's (Start at 3.5)
157.5, 160 or 162.5 mains (Start with 160.00)
Above based on the use of a full after-market exhaust system and SSCC's Chubby air kit
Flat Slide 39mm carbs are pre-jetted for this application and may only need minor adjustment to the air and pilot mixture screws
Dyna Settings
We suggest starting with curve 6 and trying curve 5 as well, the TPS should be disconnected at the plug.
429 cams.... 7000 Max rpm setting (Do not exceed with stock valve springs)
502 all........ 7500 Max rpm setting (8000 with NOS & Shortened valve guides)
Carb Tuning for Cammed Bikes: (from Shane)
For those that are having issues with popping on deceleration with 20 pilot jets here's my recommendation.
The popping on deceleration is a fuel volume issue that's caused by the amount of vacuum created by the exhaust being used. Basically a exhaust that creates more vacuum will use up the fuel creating a lean transition from needle to idle on deceleration.
Starting with a 20 pilot and 2.5 turns out, try to clean this up by opening the screws 1/4 turn at a time. If the stumble starts to return then drop to a 17.5 and start with 3 turns out. Then opening the screws 1/4 turn at a time until the issue is corrected. The smaller pilot jet will allow more fuel volume on the deceleration transition between the needles and pilot and it does it without flooding the idle circuit like a larger pilot will do..
The PMS screws can be turned out as far as 4.5 turns before going up to the next jet size. Hope this helps some of you that are close but, just can't get it.
Thanks, Shane
Stock Needles - How They go Together: (Thanks to DSWANZ)
Picture of Carb Slide and needle and needle holder - and the O-ring you need to be careful to keep.
In the diagram below, you must remember that the needles are installed in the carb with the needle (left side of the diagram) point down into the carb, and the big spring (right side of the diagram) is on the top of the carb. This is obvious once you have the carb open and the needles taken out. (this pic shows the needle with the extra shim that is used when the jetting set up noted in Jetting Table A)
SHIMS / WASHERS GO UNDER THE PLASTIC SHIM / SPACER - TO THE LEFT OF IT IN THE ABOVE DIAGRAM!!
EVERYTHING TO THE RIGHT OF THE PLASTIC SHIM / SPACER STAYS AS IS, AND ALL THE ADDS - DELETES ARE REFERENCING THE ITEMS TO THE LEFT OF THE PLASTIC SHIM/SPACER/FLOAT
MaxAir & DynaJet Needles - Included for reference and identification
Note: you have to watch buying stock needles from Yamaha. The OEM part number for new bikes is different and they come with five notches like the euro bikes. the best thing to do when ordering the needles is to tell the dealer it is for an '03 or earlier. stay away from '04 and '05 since the California bikes are different.
OEM part numbers for needles:
'06 and later - 5EL-1490J-00-00 - five notches
'03 and earlier - 5EL-1490J-20-00 - single notch
'04 and '05 - sell both needles
SKU: 5EL-1490J-20-00 - NEEDLE SET UR 49 UR 49
SKU: 5EL-1490J-00-00 - NEEDLE SET UR CA UR CA
Note: Stamped on the needles (not part number1):
-- US needles are 5DL 43-53-1.
-- Australian/Euro needles are 5DL 39-53-3/5 on carb 1 and 5DL 40-53-3/5 on carb 2.
Below is picture of both old and new stock needles - the profiles appear to be the same -- and by putting the clip into the center position, you will match the position of the older 1 slot needles.
Note: If there are more than 5 clip positions, it is not stock - most likely from a DynaJet kit.
Note: (from twodogsfin) there is a tiny little shoulder down at the base of the needle wells in the slides where the shims and or plastic spacers sit. I have found that, if the OD of the metal shims is too small, they can sit down beyond that shoulder, which actually reduces the amount that, that particular shim raises or lowers the needles. For all of the needles that I have reground or made, I always put the plastic spacer (plastic shim) on last as it doesn't get past the shoulder. That way I'm sure of where i'm at with needle height.
Needle Holder Repair - Throttle Valve "Finger" Emergency Repair
Valve Finger Repair - Jack Phelps
Staggered Jetting - Why Not? (or Why Do it)
Stock bikes come with staggered jetting (different main jets for front and rear cylinders) and MaxAir recommends that same setup when you install their POD kit and rejet. Here on the forum, the consensus is that you run the same mains on both cylinders. Why the difference? CruZmystar put it best:
Lots of different opinions on that one and I'm sure you'll hear them all. BG. Here's some of them....
-- stock air box is very restrictive and due to it's design and shape the front cylinder will get more air thus requiring more fuel
-- front cylinder will run cooler than the other due to it being out in direct airflow. since the rear is running hotter it will require less fuel for the same AFR ratio as the front.
-- stock exhaust cast elbow at the back of the head. it is more restrictive than the front elbow built into the pipes.
Personally... i think it's a combination of all three. However...
--I've taken individual pipe AFR ratios with a pod kit and aftermarket pipes (which still used the cast elbow) and found them to be dead even.
-- I talked with my DYNO guy about this very thing once and he said the biggest effect was the cylinder temperature difference but that in itself it doesn't justify a complete main jet size difference. makes sense to me.
-- He said, if ANYTHING, maybe run about .003"- .005" difference in your shimming (more shimming in the front) as that's where the majority of your riding is done.
In the idle circuit you're not going very fast so air-flow isn't a big deal and on the average riding day you're hardly into the main jets. That's my $.02 anyway. -nick
When you need jets for the 1100's stock carbs, you are looking for: Mikuni CV Carb Jets - Small Round Jets
Mikuni Part Numbers:
Mikuni Main Jets: KN102221-xxxx where xxxx is the jet size, i.e. 110
Mikuni Pilot Jets: N224.103 / 17.5-zzzz where zzzz is the jet size, i.e. 17.5
Refer to tables above for best knowledge on what size main and pilot jets work in what situation.
DON'T BUY A DYNOJET KIT!
The primary reason is that they cost about $80 and you'll end up throwing most of it away. Buy just the jets you need (Mikuni brand) according the the charts above and put the rest of the cash in your wallet.
Note: folks on the forum do not think much of this option - especially if you have any air mods - see the thread:
http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=13808.1
Adjusting Floats Do Not Do It Unless There Is A Real Need and You Know Exactly Why You Are Doing It:
Checking Float Height - "Clear tube method" - documented in the Shop Manual Page 5-7
NOTE: Yamaha tool not required - use clear tube and measure the required distance above the "sight point" - which is the seam where the float bowl mates with the carb. (right rear seam & left front seam). AND the bike must be level, side to side, and NOT leaning on the stand. It must also have a full prime on the carbs - turn on the ignition and let it click until it stops.
A couple riders mentioned that the floats should be set at 12mm. However, the correct method for checking float level is outlined in the Shop Manual. So if you set it at 12mm.....you should double check the setting.
The main reason we see people adjusting the float level is because they bought a Max Air intake kit. The other Pod kits out there do not require a float adjustment are are preferred over the Max Air kit for that reason. (Other kits are less expensive too). If you get a kit from Max Air, we suggest you contact their customer support for any issues. The information below is for reference only.
You have installed MaxAir Predator Pro Needles AND You have a Solenoid bike Max Modded
There are enough cases of negative results of this adjustment if you are using the stock needles to suggest you should NOT perform the float adjustment unless your bike exhibits performance problems.
It is equally clear that you should proceed with caution in all other cases (non-MaxAir Predator Pro needles), and NOT use this procedure until your bike exhibits some symptoms pointing to over rich situations, that cannot be cured by other means.
More Info / Instructions:
To do this the carburetors have to be removed from the bike and the bowls removed from the carburetors.
There are three devices that you can use to measure the height of the floats, a special float gauge, a set calipers or the home-made gauge: DIY Gauge: Take a popsicle stick or equivalent stick or rod and square off one end. Measure off a distance of 14mm or 0.55 inch from the squared off end and make a mark. Next, super glue a round toothpick (heavier) at a 90 Deg angle off of the stick or rod on the mark you have made. You have just created a measuring gauge.
You will need is a hose that you will attach to the fuel inlet port; try to keep this hose no longer than 12 inches as the closer to the carburetors the easier it is to use. It is best to hold the carbs sideways. The bracket that holds the small chrome cover on the left side of the carbs can be clamped into a vise, freeing both your hands for the next steps.
Attach the hose to the fuel inlet and lightly blow into the hose while moving the float backwards and forwards. Two things will happen. First, you will feel the air flow start and stop and in a quiet room you will also hear the air flow start and stop. This is the location where the the float closes the valve. Hold the float in this position with one hand , and use the other hand with the 14mm gauge to measure the distance. Where the floats have not been previously adjusted, there will be a gap between where the float closes the valve and where the gauge lines up with the crown of the float (more below). Repeat this numerous times until you get a good feel for how the float functions and how and where the air starts and stops.
Now the adjustment part.
Between the float lobes is a shinny brass tab. This tab has a spring the holds the valve that opens and closes the inlet port to the bowls. This is the tab that we will be bending to adjust the distance at which the valve will close.
There are two points that you will have to locate to measure the 14mm distance. The first is the peak of the float. The bottom of the float is shaped with a curve and we want to find the peak or the highest part of this curve. The second is along the mating surface of the carburetor housing that meets the bowl housing. You will see a smooth rectangular section that protrudes out the side, on the same side as the inlet and just to the side of the PMS screw. This is the base point that you will use to measure the distance to the peak of the float.
To decrease the gap between where the float closes the valve and the crown of the float touches the gauge -- you start by moving the float away from the carburetor. Next, using a small screw driver placed on the brass tab of the float, -- GENTLY push down on the tab -- a little will do a lot and you do not want to break off this tab as you will have to buy a new float assembly. You have just modified the distance that the float will close.
Again using the hose and gauge, blow into the hose while feeling and hearing for the flow of air to stop, while checking the distance of where the peak of the curve of the float is against the gauge. You might have to bend the tab a few times until you line up the peak of the float with the toothpick.
As a rule:
-- if you have a gap between the crown of the float and the gauge, you will have to push down on the tab to increase the distance,
-- and if you do NOT have such a gap, you will have to pry up on the tab.
Once you have the carburetors assembled and installed on the bike you will find that adjusting the PMS screws and idle speed has greater sensitivity and don’t forget to sync the carburetors to each other.
A good picture of how/where to measure - and the popsicle tool - thanks to oldfrank.
More Comments / Hints:
Nighthawk005: I know how you feel but after I was talked through it the first time it all made sense. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a little slide rule (metric ) for 1.49. Take the carbs off. Remove bowls. Now here is what I was messing up. On the left side of carbs is the bracket Turn the carbs 90 degrees so that bracket is facing DOWN and set it on level surface. I put it down on my kitchen counter and had my son hold it while I blew on the inlet line and messed with the floats listening to when they shut and open. Then did the measurement with my slide rule real easy. Others make there own. I will send picture tonight of rule I have it on computer somewhere.
Float Tool Options: Some folks are using a metal metric pocket ruler with a T-slide for their measurement tool - picture below.
Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Wires - They Break Easy - How to Fix
Some riders have reported that they were able to re-solder the wires back together as long as there was something left to solder to. Below are other options.
Removing the Solenoids Entirely
The only purpose of these shut off solenoids is to prevent excess fuel from dumping into the catalytic converter in the stock exhaust during normal riding. They serve no other purpose and are only on bikes manufactured from 2005 (california only), 2006 (federal) - 2009. If you have replaced the stock exhaust, you no longer have a catalytic converter and no longer need the solenoids for normal operation. You can safely remove them, but there are several things you will need to do to prevent the Check Engine Light from flashing at you:
Use a Kit:
A. Get a kit from SickMick - $35 (shipped continental US) xsickmickx@gmail.com
Sick Mick*: "I just put together some "SSD" (Shutoff Solenoid Delete) kits for 2006 - up V Star 1100's. If you've done the "POD" modifications or gone to aftermarket pipes, you know those solenoids in the float bowls aren't doing much of anything except hanging there with an ugly wire coming out. The problem with removal is that the check engine light will flash a trouble code (57 and 58) if it can not find them hooked up in the system.
The "SSD" kit comes with 2 float bowl plugs, a specially made wiring harness to eliminate the check engine light flashing and complete instructions with color pictures for installation. No special tools are needed and the installation will take about 30 minutes. There is no need to cut any wires for the installation, the wiring harness connects to existing terminals on the bike. I have thoroughly tested these and they have performed flawlessly.
The kit runs $35 shipped to your door (CON USA Only). I usually have them in stock ready to ship.
Clean up the engine area of your bike without breaking the bank! Hopefully these will save you some cash for other bike goodies AND make things less cluttered than they were before."
Contact Sick Mick at xsickmickx@gmail.com - Paypal accepted
Forum Thread http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=55529.1
B. Get a Kit From MaxAir - $49 plus shipping.
Step-By-Step DIY
- You will need to insert a bolt in the hole from which the solenoids were removed - the 8mm socket head fits fine, the head fits into the recess in the carb. An 8mm x 5mm (thread pitch of 1) will be perfect & I think it looks better than the big brass plug. (courtesy of TimB007)
- You will have to "put up with" the check engine light being on
- OR - Add some electrical stuff to make the bike think the solenoids are a still there.
- Make a new harness to eliminate the fuel cut off solenoids . I made a wire harness by cutting the wires about 6'' from the solenoids. Then soldered each wire to a 39 ohm resistor (or 33 ohm OK too) and then put the other end of the resistors together and soldered a wire on , put a eyelet on the end and grounded it. I used the screw on the valve cover for the ground. (Note: Resistors from Radio Shack - in the Drawers $1 or less each). catnipp Amie (catnipp2):
Carb synching and cleaning information is in the MAINTENANCE section or click here > Carburetor