Lighting

Headlights

Adjusting your headlights

Screws: If you look at the headlight straight on, You will see screws at the 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions. These are the ones to adjust.

Instructions with diagrams & measurement distances: HeadlightAdjustment.pdf

Headlight Replacement Bulbs (updated 12/12/07)

H4 is Motorcycle Specific - or - 9003 Automotive, the same thing!

Daddo (DaddoCFL):

Your headlight is just a garden Variety H4 automotive bulb and the same as ’s XTra Vision bulb. Philips makes one of the same type as well. You will find them in Wal-Mart’s Automotive section for between $7 and $9 each depending on the brand. I paid $17.87 of a two pack of the Sylvanias. (From a motorcycle magazine ad.: “The H4 is specifically designed for motorcycles” – That’s advertising crap. . . It’s the same bulb that goes into a lot of cars.)

The Silver Stars are more expensive, I seem to remember about $12 bucks each or you can get them from Amazon for $19.95 each. The H4 Silver Star High Performance Halogen headlight is a dual filament light that has filaments for both high & low beam. The H4 is specifically designed for motorcycles maximum 55W/60W).

More headlight Bulb Info - worth reading: (Thanks to "Nubbin-Head" (WDfrmTN)

H4 / 9003 Technical Information

Replacing the Headlight Reflector/Assembly

Procedure: (Courtesy of VSTARPAUL, one our Canadian members)

Take the two screws out...the trim & headlight come out as one. You will have to unplug the unit to pull out the light.

Then with a black magic marker. Indicate on the two long screws ( the ones that adjust the aiming ) where they meet up with the white plastic square washer. This will help later on when you re-assemble it and you wont have to re-aim the whole thing again from scratch.

Take out those long screws.

Then there is a " W " shaped steel clip that holds the headlight in the chrome trim ring. Open that up and it should pop off.

Do yourself a favor and draw a line picture on how the clip is positioned in there. You'll understand why.

Then there are three small screws that hold another small metal ring around the headlight. Unscrew those.

The headlight is now out. Install is the reverse. Get some dielectric grease and put it on the connections before plugging it all together again.

LED Headlights -

There appear to be many LED replacement options. They are not only brighter, but they also draw much less power from the V Star electrical system. As with most things, price does dictate quality. There are both LED bulbs that replace the existing H4 bulb, and complete lens assemblies. The complete assembly is recommended as the best for increasing light output. More info in the following forum thread...

Forum Thread - link to LED Sealed Beam Headlight Replacement

This appears to be a pretty straightforward lens swap using any one of a number of LED assemblies designated for 7" Harley headlights to fit the classic headlight bucket. The Custom uses a smaller 5.75" lens assembly,The bucket size makes it mandatory to heavily modify the LED unit, which may degrade the life expectancy. -Pics by Shawn Sadowski

HID Replacement Headlights

Digital HID Headlight Kit Installed 01/09 Thread - ccain75

http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=45316.1

HID Light Kits - Several folks - 08/11 Thread

http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=53521.1

Headlight "Delayed On" - Remove Load During Cranking

vstar4u posted this on the ISRA forum - good idea, cool implementation - V Star 1100 Headlight Delay

Remove the headlight fuse, then take a fused jumper wire and connect one lead to the power side of fuse other to relay, then from the relay back to the other side of the fuse (using the normal closed relay pins 30 & 87A) Next for the relay control ground relay pin 85, run wire from pin 86 to the starter relay under the seat (large black wire, towards front of bike). So should you need to remove the delay all you need to do is remove the 2 wires you added to the fuse block and insert a fuse.

- thanks Trevor....

Headlight Modulators

Discussion:

The NHTSB has ruled that headlight modulators are legal (and grandfathered into every US state) providing they modulate within a specified number of modulations per minute, providing they automatically change to constant on with lower light levels approximating dusk and night, and if they fail safe to automatic "on all of the time". The NHTSB has approved specs for such headlight modulators as a means of greatly improving the visibility of Motorcycles.

Vendors / Manufacturers

http://www.headlightmodulator.com/ $70 - somewhat cheaper than Kisan - but no personal experience - same functionality - at least one member has used this one for over 2 years - good results.

Kisan Pathfinder Headlight Modulator $110 (Available direct from Mfgr and also thru Kuryakyn and other sources)

SilverBack: I have and love this product - easy to install, works as described - 2 yrs = 0 problems. Open headlight bucket, unplug bike plug from light bulb, plug in the Kisan, plug bike plug into Kisan, run light sensor out of bucket to someplace you can zip-tie it to point to sky, reassemble bucket - done! Also can be programmed for other than default configuration (I used default)

Classic Headlight on Custom

Question:

I'm hoping someone who has switched over the headlight from the Custom to the Classic version can advise me on what was done to make the Classic bracket fit the Custom holes in the bottom of the trees. The Classic spacing of the holes ( gap ) is narrower than what is there. What do I do to the bracket to match it up ? Do I put a Dremel tool to it and cut out a slot and then use a washer on top?

Answer: (ClassicSteve):

I slotted the Classic bracket like you mentioned. Then, I purchased two 1/4 inch stainless steel carriage bolts (the round flat heads with the square on the top of the threads) The square fits nicely into the newly cut slot and then I used flat washers lock washers and a nylon lock nut. The head of the carriage bolt is a nice finish! Worked great!

Halo Ring

Link To Forum Thread

DIY Halo Ring

How To Create a Halo Ring Around Your Headlight

Link To Small LED Used In Halo Ring

Wiring Diagrams - link to wiring diagrams

Wire Colors

Wire Colors in Headlight Bucket

Yellow = High Beam Hot

Green = Low Beam Hot

Blue = Both Running Lights / Switched Hot - good place to "drive" solenoids

Dark-Green = Right Turn signal

Chocolate = Left Turn signal

Black = Ground

Blue = Running Light (always hot when key is on) - good place to "drive" solenoids

Wire colors in Taillight Junction (Behind Plate) and also under the seat where wires go to rear.

Yellow = Brake Light

Black = Ground

Brown = Left Signal

Green = Right signal

Light Bars / Passing Lamps

Yamaha

Discussion:

mitchelguitar:

The passing lights for the V Star 1100 require the wire to pass through the socket head bolt that holds the light to the turn signal. To properly tighten this bolt requires that you modify a number 6 Allen key so the wire will pass through it. To modify the Allen key take 3 heavy duty Dermal cutting wheels and place them together on the same shaft. Cut a slot down the short length of the key about ¼ of the way down into the key. This simple tool will save hours of aggravation.

Discussion: (John Daub)

A question I've seen crop up lately on the forums has been getting a similar bulb for the Yamaha passing lamps (can't comment on other vendor passing lamps). I was told the proper replacement is a Silverstar H3-ST. I read somewhere that you have to be careful as there are different wattages of that bulb and you have to get the 35W version (if it exists - so far folks only can find 55w version). I haven't confirmed all of this information yet, but that's what I've read on the forum and been told when I posted.

DIY - Light Bars

Shorten Stock Front Light Bar: Forum thread

Vstar1100.com DIY Passing Lamps

Alternatives to Light Bars

http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=14431.1

Other Supplemental Lights

LED's

DIY Load Equalizers for LED Turn Signals

Fast Flash of LED turn signals:

When you convert from stock filament bulbs to any LED replacement, the lower current draw fo the LEDs will often (?most likely) cause the bulbs to flash too fast. Load equalizers and electronic flasher units are both designed to "fix" the problem, althought they are NOT cheap.

You can also fix this problem with a little effort and less than $4 in parts - by putting diodes into both legs of the circuit - more below

Both sides flash Together:

You also can have a problem with the lights both flashing at the same time when in turn signal mode - because there is feedback - or rather crossover - between the two sides, due to the single bulb used as a turn signal indicator.

This can be fixed by simply removing the indicator bulb - if you think you can get along without it.

Or, you can add resistors to the circuits at the same time you do the diodes and still be within the above mentioned $4.

Turn Signals - When adding LED turn signals to a V Star 1100, you may experience "cross flash" where all 4 turn signals flash. There are several ways to eliminate this issue. The easiest is to simply remove the indicator bulb in the dash. That is what is causing the issue. LED's take such a small amount of current to activate that some bleeds over into the other signal lights since they on the same circuit. Other more recommended methods are mentioned below.

How to Document - Link to diagram and instructions - from iceman

Adapting the existing flasher to work with LED's - YouTube Modification Instructions -from Maustarman

- adding a diode to the existing flasher

instructions for adding both the diodes and resistors

How to Document - Link to diagram and instructions - from iceman

From: ssgduck -- he did NOT go under the Speedo, but did it all under the tank

There is also a wiring kit available for Kuryakyn #4709 that is made to eliminate this issue. It's available for many aftermarket vendors.

Link to Kury website showing kit.

Threads discussing this diagram and its use

http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=38541.1

http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=51560.1

How to Document - Link to diagram and instructions - from iceman

Wiring "just the rear signals" with no front signals planned - with LEDs

Forum thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=29667.1

Add An Electronic Flasher

an EL-12 (or equivelant) will work to stop flash flash of LED's as well - Mississippi Hippie (Steve)

Purchased a Tridon EL-12 electronic flasher. Unplugged the flasher relay and the brown and brown/white wires from flasher relay plug, including the spade connector. Plugged brown to X terminal and brown/white to L terminal. I left off the stock flasher relay. Works like a charm,all circuits appear to be working right and no blown fuses. $13.00 dollars is a lot cheaper than i paid for one of those load equalizers.

Another way to eliminate LED light issues or to use a toggle switch as your turn signal switch

Thanks to Jasper (Rogue50) for the info below

"Turn signals are a little trickier. You will have to do away with the stock flasher (or at least I did). It is located under the tank. There are 5 wires going to it.

Black / white / brown / brown-white and yellow-red. I bought a 2 prong signal stat plug and and a 2 prong signal stat for a car and a on/off/on toggle. Wire the brown wire into one side of the (+) signal stat hold and run a wire from the (-) of the holder to the center post on the on/off/on toggle. Find the chocolate wire coming from the left hand turn signals and attach it to 1 of the end post on the toggle and find the dark green wire coming from the right hand turn signals and wire it to the other post. Cap and tie off the other wires left. This is the cheap down and dirty way to do it. All manual, no self cancel. If you are using LED turn signals the you will need to get a LED compatible signal stat."

Tail Lights See: Wire Colors -- Lighting

Red Bulbs / Lenses

Discussion thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=16548.1

Tail Light Modulators

Discussion:

Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) suggests that you pump your brakes a each stop - for greater visibility and to gain the attention of following vehicles (flashing lights more attention grabbing than solid on light. Taillight modulators perform this flashing automatically. As soon as you tap your brakes, drivers behind you will see a rapid flash of the brake lights. This sudden flashing invokes immediate attention.

Convert Rear Turn Signals to Running Light Combo

Change out stock single sockets to dual filament sockets, wiring the extra wire into the running light circuit (see manual wiring diagram). Auto stores carry the dual filament sockets.

Convert to Combo Run / Turn / Brake Lights

Tail Light Conversion - Road Star, works here too

Radiantz LED Conversion

- High intensity red running, High Intensity red brake and amber turn. Load Equalizer Required.

- Receives lotsa kudos for brightness, good value even if pricey (as are any LEDS)

Custom Dynamics

Supplemental Rear Lights

James McKeown's Added Tail Light and Modulator

Turn Signals

Turn Signal Cancel operation: three things have to be "true" for the signal to auto-cancel after activation:

1. Bike has to be currently in motion.

2. Bike has to have traveled 150 meters (approx. 490 ft.)

3. 15 seconds has to have elapsed.

Special Note: Use of LED's may (or is very likely to) cause turn signal fast flashing or "cross flashing where all 4 signals flash at the same time. The thread below addresses some of the concerns and solutions when that occurs:

http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=54521.1

Also see the Other Supplemental Lights section above

Kent_In_KC - Side Marker Light - link to thread

LED replacements - See Tail Lights Above

Replacement Turn Signal Bulbs

Zepman: Avoiding the costly 3 pin OEM replacement bulb.

Up here in Canada I went to the local Yamaha dealer to get a replacement bulb (1157) for my front turn indicator. I was totally shocked that the price was 18.50 +15% tax. I saw that the only difference was that the OEM bulb had three (3) locking pins whereas the regular 1157 has two. SO, I went home with a regular 1157 and after comparing the two bulbs (lining up the contacts) I came up with this.

Take the new bulb with two (2) locking pins and file off the upper pin (the pin closest to the bottom of the bulb) and insert the bulb with the lower pin at approx the 4-5 o'clock position. Insert and twist to lock. Works great.

Integrating with tail light - See Tail Lights Above

Hazard Warning Modifications

DIY V*Star 1100 Hazard Light Modification

Two Diagrams - same approach:

LED Flasher Addition/Modification - Silverback

Added a custom made Emergency Flasher system to front and back of the bike. The system is controlled by a remote that lets me have off/on and 4 different flash speeds.

Mounted a pair of 6-LED red clusters on the back of my trunk bag (now moved to a pair of aluminum L-brackets screwed on by the rear reflectors), and amber ones on the fork down tubes in the front of the bike. Chose a remote because it gave me always-on or 4 variable flash speeds and the ability to mount the remote anywhere on the bike - and gave me the ability to activate the flashers when away from the bike. Got all my parts here: http://www.customdynamics.com/courtesy_lights.htm for total of about $115 (for front, back, control). Bright as hell! Easy Install.

I have the Kisan Technology "Signal Minder" unit my newer, 04, bike .. http://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=4 . Works like a champ -- you get signal auto off, and also get run-turn-brake, brake flash, and 2 modes of 4-way flashers (flashers and ping-pong). I love it!

Speedometer Replacement Bulb

Speedometer replacement bulbs are a T-6.5 bulb. Common part number is 24. You can use similar sized LED bulbs.

Left Side Skull Mount

Another one:

cobb's Instructions:

First off, there's a thread that I based my work on here: Forum thread on skull wiring

The skull Wires are as follows.

Brown = Power

White = Earth

Yellow Wire and Green Wire = Brakes

Ok, here's what I did. I got 2 x 4 pin quick connectors so I could disconnect them easily and cut off the existing flat connectors and rewired them. I made sure that I wired them both identically -

Top Left - Brown (power),

Top right - White (Earth),

Bottom Left = Green,

Bottom Right = Yellow.

I use 3 different colors of wire on the Bike side of the terminals.

Black = Earth

Red = Power

Brown = Brakes

Remove RH battery cover and using a splice connector splice the Earth/Ground wire into the thin black wire that runs off your Negative Battery cable. Leave about 4" so you can tuck the splice connector away out of sight easily.

The RED wire now needs to be spliced into the Headlight wire or into a power wire that is on when the ignition is turned on. You will need a Circuit tester to go find this. I think I used the Blue Wire in the main core that comes down the Frame...followed the wire to under the Seat and spliced it in there.

Ok, now if you want the eyes to glow brighter when the brakes are on then wire them into the Rear Brake wire. This is the bundle of cables that goes into the rear fender. Remove it from its tidy clamps and then unwind some of the tape, and using your circuit tester TEST to make sure you get the Brake Wire....have someone activate the brakes on/off/on/off till you are sure you got the right wire...don't just assume it IS the yellow wire. Once you have it, then splice your remaining wire into this one as far under the seat pan as you can.

TEST to make sure everything lights up and works fine...?? If all works then get a roll of BLACK insulation tape and re-wrap everything well to ensure it is now moisture proof.

Cheers - Cobb

Instructions - another version: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=30682.6

Right Side Skull Mount

See instructions above for wiring