Embedded Files
Wiring Diagrams
Link to PDF Wiring Diagram - USA
Link to PDF Wiring Diagram - Cali
Wire Colors -- Lighting -- Tap-In Points
Wire Colors in Headlight Bucket
Yellow = High Beam Hot
Yellow = High Beam Hot
Green = Low Beam Hot
Green = Low Beam Hot
Blue = Both Running Lights / Switched Hot - good place to "drive" solenoids
Blue = Both Running Lights / Switched Hot - good place to "drive" solenoids
Dark-Green = Right Turn signal
Dark-Green = Right Turn signal
Chocolate = Left Turn signal
Chocolate = Left Turn signal
Black = Ground
Black = Ground
Wire Colors in Taillight Junction (Behind Plate) and also under the seat where wires go to rear.
Blue = Running Light (always hot when key is on) - good place to "drive" solenoids
Blue = Running Light (always hot when key is on) - good place to "drive" solenoids
Yellow = Brake Light
Yellow = Brake Light
Black = Ground
Black = Ground
Brown = Left Signal
Brown = Left Signal
Green = Right signal
Green = Right signal
Adding Circuits
A couple good links on how to add circuits and accessories.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php (Contributed by LMCFL)
Making The Best Connection
Strip, solder, heat shrink!
There are many ways to connect 2 or more wires together. Many of these are fairly inexpensive and easy to use. With that said, the very best form of connecting wires together is solder and heat shrink tubing. Any other method can leave the wires open to contaminants and moisture which can lead to future electrical issues.
One thing that everyone hates is an intermittent electrical issue that is buried deep in the wiring. Do yourself a favor and just do it right the first time.
I (silverback talking) personally use the quick splicers for "trigger" circuits only and not power circuits. For power circuits, I used to strip the wires, twist them into wire nuts and then use plastic electrical tape - now I use the Cage Clamp connectors below).
Fuse Taps - Tap the Circuit You Want
This connector, available at auto parts stores and Radio Shack will allow you to easily add circuits to an existing circuit of your choice. Slip it over one leg of the fuse for a circuit you want to tap, push the fuse back in and then tie your new circuit onto the blade of the tap, and run it where ever you want it to go. When you get it where you want it, then tie the other side / leg of the new device to a good solid ground - screw to frame, etc. Remember, if you add any real load, you should utilize a relay - using this tap on the drive or trigger side and a fused direct lead from the battery for the driven or load side of the relay.
Another way to accomplish the same thing is via the Access-A-Fuse with a hidden tab that you can raise/lower and use to attach a blade connector
Fuse Tap
Access-A-Fuse
Switched Power Circuit (On with Bike Key)
If you are just going to use the power tap for a minimal draw (i.e.. Charging your cell phone, powering a GPS etc.), it might make more sense to draw power from the existing headlamp circuit and install a polarized plug up front where you would most likely connect those devices while on the bike. The additional micro of mille amp requirement of those types of electronic devices would be negligible on that circuit.
If you are just going to use the power tap for a minimal draw (i.e.. Charging your cell phone, powering a GPS etc.), it might make more sense to draw power from the existing headlamp circuit and install a polarized plug up front where you would most likely connect those devices while on the bike. The additional micro of mille amp requirement of those types of electronic devices would be negligible on that circuit.
For something that was a bit more power hungry, where the source was still ignition on only, I would install a relay controlled and fused circuit that draws power directly from the battery.
For something that was a bit more power hungry, where the source was still ignition on only, I would install a relay controlled and fused circuit that draws power directly from the battery.
An example would be the circuit that controls my highway bar mounted fog lamps. They tap power directly from the battery, but only when a controlling relay is powered on by the headlamp circuit. The good news is that if you are not able to wire it yourself, any well equipped auto supply store will sell you a complete and ready to wire in place power circuit that is wired in the way that I described. These kits are designed for the installation of auxiliary lighting and are very easy to install.
An example would be the circuit that controls my highway bar mounted fog lamps. They tap power directly from the battery, but only when a controlling relay is powered on by the headlamp circuit. The good news is that if you are not able to wire it yourself, any well equipped auto supply store will sell you a complete and ready to wire in place power circuit that is wired in the way that I described. These kits are designed for the installation of auxiliary lighting and are very easy to install.
Daddo (Larry Marino)
Daddo (Larry Marino)
Relay Wiring
If you are adding anything with relatively heavy electrical load (horns, extra lights, etc), you will need to control it via relay, to ensure you do NOT overload the circuit you are connecting to. Relays basically use a low power circuit to trigger the relay and thus turn on the controlled, higher load circuit / device. Example: Connect the existing horn wires (and thus the stock, low load horn switch circuit) to the trigger side of a relay, and let the relay activate the heavier load replacement horns -- which are driven by a feed direct from the battery, through the relay. Click the thumbnail below to get a larger drawing of how to connect a typical relay.
In the following electrical connection diagram, the relay is being used to trigger the compressor for a set of air horns. If you are using electrical horns, substitute your horns for the air compressor.
On the 1100, connect the two stock horn leads to pins 86 and 85 -- connect a fused power line to pin 87 -- connect a line from pin 30 to the positive lead of your horn or compressor. Ground your compressors ground lead to any frame bolt, etc
NOTE: this is a corrected / enhanced diagram - thanks to Denny (Denny407):
Several Links On Relays
How To Use A Relay & A Distribution Block To Add Circuits To Your Bike
Horn Modifications - Link to Modifications - Horns
Install Cigarette Lighter Socket
Helpful Hints on Cig Lighter Positive/Negative - and Switch - From cruzmystar
Cig lighter... lots of them are different. however... what you'll be looking for the is terminal that's connected to the outside collar or housing. that's the ground. the positive will be towards the center on the back. since you mentioned continuity regarding the switch what you can do is check continuity to see which one's which. the ground will have continuity to the sleeve inside the socket and the positive will only have continuity to the small center post at the bottom inside of the socket.
Switch... if it's a simple on/off switch with with only two terminals and no light in the switch itself then it doesn't matter. if the switch has a label with ON and OFF on it then i do believe the power feed wire will go to the terminal closest to the OFF position. it will function both ways just one way the label will match up with what it's actually doing and the other way it will be backwards
Harley Ignition Switch
There are many various ways of using different ignition switches. Here is one sample method of adding a Harley switch.
There are many various ways of using different ignition switches. Here is one sample method of adding a Harley switch.
Harley Ignition Switch Installation
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