Seats

Classic vs. Custom Fenders - Seat Mounting

Will Custom fender fit on Classic and how does that affect seat mounting? (PDF file)

Basically the seat mounting is completely different between these 2 models. Make sure you are aware that modifications need to be done. The rear most rider seat mounting is completely different. Also the rear pillion mounting stud is in different locations.

The seats are also shaped underneath to match the curve of the fenders they are attaching to. The curve of a Classic fender in the seat mounting location is completely different than the curve of a Custom fender. -Sick Mick

Which Seat is Best? - Silverback

The consensus is that the stock seats "suck", and almost everyone considers a change out as one of their first mods.

I am a big guy, and I found the best I could do on the stock seat was about 3/4 hour - then I HAD to get off. The next legs of the trip got shorter and shorter ride time. Then I switched to a Mustang and got three major benefits: a. my wife loved me to death for getting her a better perch (twice as big and infinitely more comfortable): b. the overlap of the front of the passenger seat with the back of my seat makes a wonderful backrest that hits me right where it is needed to relieve and back upset; and c. I was able to ride from tank to tank with no effort and recently I find I can be in the saddle (not getting off even for gas ups for 4 to 5 hours. Now that is a good seat. Fair is fair however - I have never tried the Corbin and it is reported to have the same benefits.

The "argument" seems to settle in as "Corbin vs. Mustang", with what seems to be about an even split mentioned for both sides.

Recently, a lot of folks are singing the praises of the Ultimate brand of seats - so now it look like a three way race, with a lot of other contenders having their advocates, also.

What I have heard was that big guys seemed to prefer the Mustang and the not as big guys seemed to favor the Corbin. Both the Mustang and Corbin appear to be hard for the first 500 miles or so, and then they begin to conform to your posterior, and become super comfortable. Both seats reduce the ground to seat figure and the Mustang moves you forward about 1 to 1.5 inches. The Corbin moves you back a bit (vs. stock), as does the PCS.

There many other seats available besides Mustang and Corbin.

My suggestion is that you find bikes with seats you want to consider and ask if you can throw a leg over and give them a sit. Talk to their owner and find out what they think.

Seat Discussion thread:

08/29/09: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=44322.1

05/02/06: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=13653.1

Building / Modifying Your Own Seat

V*Star 650 Seat Mod) (Approach is the same)

Motor Cyclist - How To Cut Down a Saddle

Recover Chip Seat / Ostrich - by Kent (kvanderploeg)

Making your own "chip" seat

Trimming The Stock Seat Pan 1 - link to picture

Trimming The Stock Seat Pan 2 - link to picture

Once you compare your stock seat pan to these pictures, you'll immediately see which areas need to be cut off. Once these "wings" have been removed, lay the seat foam back on the pan to get see which areas of foam need to be removed. It'll be pretty obvious. You can try the methods listed below, but I prefered using a combination of an electric carving knife to remove the big stuff and a 4" flappy sanding disc on my grinder to do the finishing touches. The flappy disc will make a huge mess, so I advise doing it outside. The grinder can and will remove lots of material quickly, so be very careful when finishing off the shape.

It's a fairly easy process and if you take your time. Follow the information below for covering. - Sick Mick

Discussion:

tj1100cl: I just finished this mod a couple weeks ago, and I'm pretty happy with the results. Here's some observations from me:

1. Definitely have a helper handy when its time to restaple.

2. Once you trim the pan down to how it looks in the article's picture 6, you can experiment with your cushioning material. I cut too much out of the factory foam and ruined it. If you want a seat that resembles the shape of the pan, I recommend a denser foam than the stock material, which is apparently why they made it so big and round.

3. I found great, high density foam in the hunting section of the sporting goods store, a pad for sitting in tree or on ground for a couple bucks. i also would recommend an exercise mat like you can find at any store which you can layer.

4. Once I had the cushion material cut the way I wanted, I duct taped it to the pan with strips of tape running horizontally. Once this was done, it looked like a completed seat, just a duct tape one. With the duct tape, you can make the sides and top very uniform with the tension of the tape as you wrap it over each edge. This can eliminate the need for finish sanding. This is a good time to test the foam placement before you staple vinyl on. I did 1" of high density foam on the bottom half 'triangle', and 1/2" on the back half, rounded at the top.

5. Once you are happy with your cushioning setup, get 1 yd. each of marine grade vinyl and 1/2" or 1" regular density foam and some spray adhesive. ($39 at Joann's Fabrics) cut a piece about half the sq. yd., and cut the yd. of foam in half too and center it in the vinyl and spray glue them together. You are then creating a foam backed piece of vinyl which you will staple back on.

6. Start at the nose, put three staples in, then move to the sides and work back. Once I was done, I came back to the nose and removed the original three, and put in 6 that were better. I used 1/4" staples.

7. Here's where you need the helper. even with an electric staple gun, you will need help. Lay the seat upside-down on the edge of a (preferably round edged) table and pull the vinyl tightly, and position the stapler where you want it. Basically hugging the entire piece, push the stapler into the vinyl and seat pan. get it all perfectly positioned yourself. Once you are ready, THEN have your helper only push the trigger for the stapler. They can put their extra hand on the BACK of the stapler, to absorb the recoil.

That was the one thing that made my task come out great as opposed to being completely pissed off. I could not get the staples to sink flush while still holding everything else. Focusing on holding the stapler tight, while someone else pushed the button worked perfectly. Once I figured that out, doing the restaple part was a breeze.

cruzmystar: A couple of tips for the seat mod.... get the foam wet and freeze it in the freezer. it will make shaping it a lot easier and will keep the foam from ripping and tearing. if you have trouble getting the staples to go into the seat pan then heat the pan up with a heat gun or hair dryer a bit. staples should go right in. same goes with the new seat material. throw it in the dreyer for a little bit to get it warm and pliable. then keep hitting it with a heat gun or hair dryer while you're repulling stretching and stapling it. it makes a huge difference. also, best tip.... expect to get frustrated at first when it comes time to recover. it can be a real pain until you get the hang of it. good luck!!!!

pageboy96:

A flap sanding wheel in an electric drill goes a lot faster than using a rasp by hand. No freezing needed, so it's less fiddly. When I did some reshaping on my seat I didn't even need the electric knife. The flap sander will cut as fast as you want. And for finer shaping when you don't want to cut so fast, slow down the drill speed.

Drostar100: (When you modify a stock seat - here's a good tip:)

"Don't use an electric knife, get the foam wet and freeze it then use a long fine tooth hack saw blade to cut the foam, first one I did was a mess, the second one I used the freeze method and I came out great. It took longer because i had to re-freeze the foam when it started to thaw but it was worth it. After you get the final shape you want freeze it one last time and use an orbital sander to smooth out the rough spots."

Comfort Add-Ons

Air cushion:

I first tried an Air Hawk and loved it - did my longest day on the 02 with that cushion - 720 miles - as part of a 3 day 1888 mile trip.

Then I saw a review in Motorcycle Consumer News (my favorite bike pub) comparing stock vs. Air Hawk vs. Freedom Air (http://www.longerride.com/) - and the Freedom Air won hands down - 3 times better than the AirHawk.

I got one and agree 100% - the Freedom Air has a V cut out in the front to give the "jewels" a place to rest and also in the back - to let your tailbone hang free - plus each side is separately inflatable - lets you balance to your body, etc. I used this one for my 7 day 4200 mile round trip on the 02 (mustang seat) to/from the M&G - PERFECT -Silverback

Arm Rests - Passenger

Forum Thread - 04/29/11: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=52382.1

Two types available from one vendor - not recommended based on rider experience - Arm Rests Thread on forum

Seat Handrails

Mike Tromp's Grab Rails from Bag Standoffs PDF

Post about using Yamaha Bag supports as Passenger Hand Rails: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=5956.15

Sissy Bars

Use of Square HD Sissy Bars on V*1100's:

HD Soft Tails have sissy bars that are 1/2 inch square in cross section (like V*1100's) and with the same hole spacing as the V*1100s' side arms. . This means you can buy such an HD sissy bar and 4 chrome screws (SAE - not metric) and install it directly - no mods.

Mod For Quick On/Off - Std Sissy Bar Mounts -

You can modify the stock sissy bar side mounts so they can be taken off/on by just loosening the two bolts on each side. Mods- See pictures below. Rear mounting hole needs to be made into slot, aimed straight down to the bottom of the mount edge, and slightly widened as it goes downward. The front mounting hole needs to be elongated backwards to make an oval twice the original size and then the back part (back 1/2 / hole) of that front mounting hole needs to be made into a slot like the back mounting hole. You can treat the cut edge with nail polish ot clear coat or even paint - to seal the edge. (Note: Pictures from Timm, Idea from Jasper)

Replacement sissy bars

If you want to replace just the bars themselves (for taller / shorter versions) find HD bars that are for Heritage Soft Tail - they are made from the same size material, and the only difference is they will require SAE bolts, in place of the stock metric bolts.

Passenger Seat Mount Recall

Yamaha has recalled all 1999-2005 V*Star 1100 models to have the dealers replace the passenger seat / pillion hold-down mechanism. The set-up being replaced is a bolt down through the rear seat hold-down tab and then through the fender into a nut welded to the fender underside.. Apparently there have been cases of this bolt loosening, risking passenger seat detachment and injury to passengers. The new set-up replaces the bolt with a stud that is lock-tited permanently into the under-fender nut, and which includes a cap nut on the top side, that can be removed for seat removal.

Discussion: There has been some discussion bout the new mechanism making it difficult to work with after market seats and / or special pillion arrangements. Many advocate NOT getting the recall done, band to use blue lock-tite (removable) on the existing mechanism. This has to be your personal call.