Exhaust
'05 California & '06 and Later Models Stock Exhaust Differences
The stock exhaust systems for the V Star 1100 were changed in 2005 for California models and 2006 for all Federal models. This change includes catalytic converters in the mufflers and a different rear mounting bracket (see picture below). Parts are interchangeable between model years provided you have the correct bracket. However, using a stock 06-up system on an earlier model not factory equipped with catalytic converters will cause problems and is not recommended.
Here's a picture of both new and old style brackets (click pic to enlarge):
DIY-Stock Exhaust Modification
Schematic of stock muffler - Thanks Dro
Jack Phelps's Exhaust Mod - Drill out stock pipe ends, remove rear baffles, insert (or not) new tail piece. $10.00
From KevinBC: The picture is of the inserts I made to finish the job. Bought two 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" exhaust repair transition pipes about 6" long. Trimmed the 1 3/4" end so when they slip in the end is about 1/8" inside the chrome muffler body. Drilled two 3/16" holes in the shoulder so when they are installed I touched them with the mig to weld them in place. Painted black you would never know the change was made. I wasn't sure if the sound was going to be just right, so I also drilled a 1/4" hole on the bottom side of the 1 3/4" end and welded on a 1/4" nut. This is so I could do the thunder baffle idea from the knowledge base if needed. I like it the way it is.
NOTE: From cape_fishrmn talking about his 08 mod:
I fought with the first of my two center pipes also.
On the first one, after breaking it loose (which is easy to do), I clamped on a pair of vise grips. I then clamped on a second pair of vise grips to the first pair...perpendicular to the first pair. I then started hitting that second set of grips with a heavy hammer. I constantly had to reattach/realign the vise grips as I obviously was beating the crap out of them. FINALLY, after about 30-45 minutes of hitting (and taking breaks), the pipe came out. I knew there had to be a better way.
I did it different on the second pipe. After I broke the center pipe free I took a LARGE, long-shank screwdriver and ran it down the side of the center pipe to where it entered into the inner muffler. Once the pipe is broken free there should be a small gap all the way around the pipe. I wedged the big screwdriver in that gap. Then I hit the screwdriver several times with a hammer...I drove it into the gap deeper and deeper. By doing this, I was making the hole larger. I took the screwdriver out and reinserted it on the opposite side of the little pipe and wedged it in there as well. After doing this in about three places I then went the vise grip route as described above. Only this time it popped out on the very first hit of the hammner! MUCH EASIER...ALMOST NO SWEAT EQUITY INVOLVED!!!
I couldn't believe how easy that second pipe came out. I was hating myself for going through what I did with the first pipe.
Note: Pipes with Catalytic Converters - see this thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=16312.1
Note: Per BHandrahan: "But as it turns out you can't do the mod to the "Calif" model 2004 V-Star as they have a cat inside that is too big to come out with the baffle."
Discussion Threads about this mod: 9703.1 32099.1 35006.1 31526.1
Slip On Mufflers
Generally speaking you will get almost zero performance gain from slip on mufflers. You will gain noise, but that is about all. If that's all you are looking for, they might work for you. If you are looking for performance, full aftermarket pipes are the way to go.
Full Pipes
Retention of Stock Rear Elbow
From SilverBack: Many replacement pipes retain the stock rear exhaust elbow - which some consider "ugly" (rightfully so, IMHO). When I added the cobra 2 into 1 exhaust, I hated the idea of leaving on that elbow in place while adding all that beautiful chrome - I was faced with two alternatives:
Leave the stock elbow, and get used to it - was advised by a member that only I would ever see it - no real friends would ever even look at or notice it - this turned out to be true and even picky "moi" does not notice it now
2-into-1 Performance Advantages
Performance Advantage - See chart under Tuning - Performance Comparisons
The two styles of the Cobra 2 into 1 pipe appears to be the leader among both the 2 into 2 and 2 into 1 pipes for its ability to make the most HP and Torque - and it has nice muscular sound also.
Those riders who have ridden their machines with the pipes stock and with the baffle plate having a 1 1/2 inch hole drilled in the center report two positive effects of the drilled baffle;: More HP and Torque; and a much improved sound.
mitchelguita:
I have the hole drilled into the baffle on my Cobra 2 into 1. At first I was reluctance but at the suggestion of raymajors I did it and I'm glad I did.
I took a 1 1/2 inch drill saw and in the middle of the baffle plate drilled a hole. There were a couple of reasons. First, in case I ever want to use a Dyno to tune the engine where you will need to access both pipes for the AFR probe (and not use the combined muffler). The second was the sound -- the Cobra's weren't loud enough for me and I was looking for a sound, I started with a 1/2 hole and moved up to a 1 hole and then the 1&1/2 hole and got the sound I liked.
I gave up a little low end grunt for better high end breathing, as lot of the riding I do is at 70. You could still have both by drilling the hole and then welding in a seat and a screw in plug to seal it off. As for the sound, it sounds like a small block 327 Chevy two bolt main with a 4 barrel carb with a 2 into 1 exhaust.
twodogsfing:
The difference between a drilled and non drilled baffle with the Cobra 2 into 1 pipe and the Triple X2 cams is incredible ! Those cams make the engine need to breath.
I've gone back and forth between a stock baffle and my drilled baffle ( 1 1/2" hole ) and I would not have it any other way than drilled. The loss of low end is very minimal compared to the huge gain in power from the lower mid range on up you get after drilling. The X2s are snappy on the low end anyways
.When I first switched from my HK 2 into 1 to the Cobra, I wasn't really impressed. Joe Conway told me to drill the baffle and MAN ! did that make a world of difference.
Baffles & Torque Cones
What are baffles for?
Baffles are generally used to reduce the sound level of the exhaust note. The secondary value of baffles is that they help create back pressure in the exhaust system. Back pressure helps the engine create torque. The more narrow the baffle, the more back pressure, therefore the higher torque value. Very high performance (stroker) engines may not require exhaust back pressure restrictions created by baffles.
DIY Baffle / Thunder Baffle (updated 02/14/117)
Courtesy of Norm (NORM277) - Instructions on making your own - My City Thunder Baffle
DIY Thunder Baffle / Lollipop to Replace Gutting - courtesy of John Hodges - Instructions
What are torque cones for?
Torque cones are used to create a higher velocity of exhaust flow in the exhaust pipe. This higher velocity generates an increase of torque from the engine. There are two other performance benefits gained from the use of torque cones. One is the creation of velocity, which actually scavenges the exhaust from the exhaust port more efficiently. This assists in evacuating gasses from the engine. The other benefit is that the torque cones help create an anti-reversion effect. This eliminates the tendency for spent gases to be sucked back into the combustion chamber during the engine's intake stroke. The value of anti-reversion is a cleaner air fuel burn during combustion and a cooler running engine.
Note: Torques cones for the 1100 - get the ones sized to fit HD Shovelheads
Wrapping or Re-Wrapping Baffles - Forum Thread http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages/?msg=58227.1
Back Pressure vs. Performance
If you don't have back pressure, you are losing torque and thus horsepower (value computed from torque, rpm and a constant)
You should use either, baffles, torque cones, or the popsicle back pressure device - see next item.
(Will add more here later, but this summary tells it all!
"Lollipop" back pressure device
Exhaust Systems - Lollipop Can be constructed for less than $5 from hardware store parts.
Discussion: (SilverBack)
-- This device will allow you to run straight / drag pipes without baffling, and still provide back pressure to help increase torque
(and thus horsepower which is calculated from torque, rpm and a constant, so I have been told)
-- The link above takes you to how-to and testing results which verify the performance gains in HP and torque.
-- This device appears to be the central piece in the Big City Thunder Baffle (BCT) (about $90) which is an approx. 4" long tube with a slight restriction in the center, and on which a close cousin of the "lollipop" is mounted.
-- Personally, using the seat-of-pants-dyno, I could detect no difference between the $5 "lollipop" and the $90 BCT. Nor was there any appreciable difference in sound volume or quality. (Note: had planned to do real dyno test, but decided on more chrome, instead. May still do it later)
-- I would recommend you try the "lollipop" before you order the BCT, and see if it will meet your needs.
Sound level Comparison of Baffle Options - Howard howsonIII on the forum
Excellent procedure for comparing multiple baffles options and the changes in measured sound levels.
See also: AIS Removal
"Painting" Pipes Black
Forum Thread - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=12409.1
"True" Dual Pipes
Custom True Dual Exhaust - Bent 'nTwisted Too Pipes - Produced and sold by Metric Magic - Link To Website
Thread on forum - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=45769.1
Thread On Building Duals - 18Apes http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages/?msg=57669.1
turk1938 Dual Fish Tails - Link To Info
UltraStar forum Thread - another way: http://forums.delphiforums.com/ultrastar/messages?msg=1478.1
Gasket/Pipe Install Hints: (updated 07/17/12)
Stop Front Gasket Fall-Out:
LPstardog: A thing I found essential (because the lack of a 3rd hand) was some high temp copper silicone...just to put a thin coat on 1 side of exhaust gasket to hold it up in place while installing header pipe.
Some of us just use a small dab of wheel bearing grease to do the same thing.
Tighten Bolts/Nut Evenly:
Tankman653: This always works for me. I was getting exhaust leaks most every time I took them loose. Started doing them like this and haven't had a problem since. Run the nuts down as far as possible finger tight. Try make sure both sides are as even as possible at this point. Turn one full turn on each nut until they are snug. Then half turn on each nut until they are tight. It's a bit of a PIA but it works. I'm a little anal about oil changes and change the oil every 3 to 4 months regardless of the mileage. Doing it this way I have been able to get a good seal every time.
Alternate Exhaust Gaskets:
You can use a FelPro # 23588 exhaust gasket to replace the Yamaha exhaust gasket. They are not the same quality or made to handle the same things as the stock gasket, but can be using in a pinch.
Cleaning Pipes
When you burn something onto your pipes:
Carefully apply Cold Oven Oven Cleaner, let it sit for 15 minutes, and then remove it. Might take several applications, and you might want to scrape it with something softly rigid (credit card, wood shim, plastic putty knife)
From Brenda (SoLowSolo):
Here's what ya do: Stop by your local "mega mart" or hardware store and buy a BRASS BRISTLE BRUSH - you can get them in a couple different sizes - they are generally about the size of a toothbrush. Don't get the ones with steel bristles or nylon bristles - only BRASS.
Start your bike to get the pipes hot, then shut it off. Take the BRASS BRUSH and lightly brush away at the "stuff" stuck on the pipes (try a light, circular motion). If it all doesn't come off the first time, repeat the process. Brass is soft enough not to leave a mark on your chrome (but DO be gentle!). When all the "stuff" is gone, polish with chrome polish - and for an extra touch, try one of the new "micro-fiber polishing cloths".
Some of the new "synthetics" in our clothing get really hard after they melt and then cool down. If the "stuff" is thick on there, you'll probably need to get your pipes pretty hot to get it to "re-melt" or soften, then take it off in layers with the brush.
I carry a brass brush in my saddlebag all the time and use it anytime I stop and see something on my chrome that shouldn't be there! They cost only about $1.00 for the "toothbrush size" and maybe 50 cents to $1 more for the slightly larger one (YOU may need the bigger one.)
If this still persists, leave the bike running and work with the brush (please don't post me a nasty note if you burn your knuckles while doing this LOL)
From: Ivan Talley
I've been having real good results using Chrome Polish and a Dremel polishing tip to remove all kinds of baked on "plastics" from my exhaust. It has worked best when using the Dremel while the polish is still wet. No real elbow grease needed and the polish lubricates the tip to prevent removal of the chrome. No discernible degradation of the chrome and I've had to do this 2-3 times now in the same damn area of the pipes! Ha!
Exhaust Wrap
How much do I need? TimB1007: "General rule, 3x the pipe length & add 8"" per curve."
Hints:
rosskp:
- I could not tell you the exact amount needed, depends on the pipe and the length. They have a calculator on the instructions as to how much is needed.
- The Silicon Black spray is a good thing to use holds up pretty good, with touch-ups now and then.
- If you have a Harbor Freight in your area you can get the stainless cable ties used to hold the wrap on for about $6 for a dozen as compared to the ones in the auto stores for $10 for 4.
- I would get the 50' roll as you do not want to use pieces. After you determine how much you need, cut that length plus add about 4' to be safe.
- Soak the wrap in water for a few minutes, then wring out and dry as much as you can with towels, makes for a tighter wrap.
- Wear long sleeves and gloves also a mask as the wrap can be very irritating as it is made of fiberglass.
- It definitely is a big improvement to the lousy chrome and it keeps the pipes cooler. (no more melting of gloves, micro towels, etc..)
It is suggested that you wrap from the back to the front.