Engine Removal/Breakdown
USE THE YAMAHA SHOP MANUAL AS A STANDARD GUIDE
Courtesy of Joe Conway (Our Engine Expert):
Engine Removal and Break-down
Starting from the point of having removed the seats, tank, exhaust, carbs, all the plastic chrome head covers, and the neck covers which cover the coils up front . You will need one those small rolling Hydraulic floor jacks. You can get one at any Auto Parts Store
These directions should be used with the Repair Manual for reference and you should also read thru the Cam Install Procedure instructions as they will also apply. READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING
Have a full set of Metric wrenches/ sockets/ allen wrenches on hand. If your tool situation is not good I suggest going to Sears and buying a good set.
You will need a variety of different size sockets and wrenches including a TQ Wrench
1st Get the bike up on a stand or use some 2x6 lumber and place it under the bike just in front of the rear wheel. You will need to jack the bike up a little.
Now we start to take parts off.
1. Start on the left side of the bike and remove the kick stand and let it hang.
2. Remove Floor board/foot peg/shift lever
3. Remove the lower left rear side trans cover and the tool cover with the key lock
4. Remove the small cover where the clutch cable goes into on the motor. Then loosen the clutch cable adjuster on the handle bars and go back down and slip the other end out of the clutch arm.
5. You’ll see a bundle of wires with connectors. Some of the wires are coming from the left side crankcase cover. Unhook everything and cut any zip ties holing them together (remember to re zip tie on install)
6. The tool storage unit gets removed completely (left side only not the battery side), take your time, there is three or four small bolts that hold it in place and one in behind the battery that hold both sides together. Slide the fuel pum off its retainer tabs and leave hanging in place, and the fuel filter just gets slipped out of it’s retainer tabs but not unhooked. Also at this time remove the speedo sensor ( 1 bolt )
Refer to the Repair manual for pics
7. At this point take the rolling floor jack and place it under the motor. Use a couple of rags so as not to damage the bottom and snug it up.
8. Remove the rear upper and lower engine stays and associated bolts form the motor and frame on the left rear of the engine/frame, there are two bolts holding each stay to the frame. Move to the right side and remove the one remaing bolt from the rear mount.
9. Take the Battery cover off , unhook the bat cables
10 Remove the floorboard/foot peg and at the same time the rear master cylinder and brake reservoir and carefully pull them around to the rear of the bike and let them lay.
11. There are three leads that need to be removed on the right side, 1 is the oil sensor which can be unplugged right by the front of the battery. You see a male/female connector. Just pull the apart carefully
The other is a ground wire you will find a piggy backed on the batter ground cable. Unhook at the split connector and the negative battery cable comes out with the motor. The 3rd is the starter motor power line, unhook from the starter. The starter stays put
12. Remove the front lower engine stays ( mounts ). Then remove the right side down tube. Two bolts on each end.
Are you ready?? Set up a couple of small pieces of 2x4’s side by side to the front right side of the bike to put the motor on after it comes out of the frame. You might want to grab a friend to help here. The motor weighs a lot be careful.
13. Make sure the jack is pretty much centered on the bottom of the motor and take out the remaining 4 front upper mount bolts and she is free. Roll the jack You will have to progressively lower it as you go. Lift the motor onto the 2 pieces of 2x’s secure it and take a break.
Engine Rebuild Procedures
USE THE YAMAHA SHOP MANUAL AS A STANDARD GUIDE
END GAP THE RINGS as per the instructions on the J&E web site. They are usually within spec. So don’t get too crazy here
.
We are going to do one cylinder and cam at a time. This should be a must for 1st timers working on this motor. There have been several people who have disassembled both cylinders at once and had some major problems due to not knowing how to set up the motor properly. BIG PROBLEMS, BIG MONEY. Trust me and follow these steps.
WE WILL BE STARTING STARTING WITH THE REAR CYLINDER.
MAKE SURE TO USE AMPLE ASSEMBLY LUBE ON THE NEW CAMS AND THE PISTON PINS. THIS IS CRITICAL FOR THE INITIAL STARTUP OF THE MOTOR. MOST FAILURES AND DAMAGE HAPPEN WITHIN THE FIRST FEW MINUTES OF OPERATION DUE TO LACK OF LUBRICATION AND OR NOT ENOUGH ASSEMBLY LUBE.
14. Remove the side cover from the rear head to expose the camshaft gear. Use a large flat head screw driver to remove both the large and small plug on the (L) crankcase cover. Using a 22mm long socket on the crank shaft nut thru the large hole turn the crank clockwise. Then following the instructions in the manual to bring the rear cylinder up to TDC and line up the rear timing mark, T l , in the small timing hole on the crankcase cover, The motor turns clockwise from the left side. The cam gear dot may be off the head pointer slightly when the Tl timing mark is lined up. Take note of how they align in reference to one another, and remember for when the cylinder is going back together. Sometimes the cam gear marks are off about a ½ tooth
15. Now we want to break the cam gear bolt free. Use the ratchet thru the crank nut hole to keep the motor form spinning. If it moves line everything back up after it is loose. Don’t remove just yet. Leave the bolt finger tight
Place a piece of rag into the timing chain slot to keep debris or parts falling into the motor. Remove the tensioner. Remove the cam gear bolt, use a piece of wire to keep the timing chain from falling into the motor. Remove the cam gear and place aside. ***refer to the cam install instructions
Now it is very important that you do not lose track of the crank shaft position. It can move a little but don’t forget to move it back to the timing mark before lining up the new cams. We’ll get to that soon
16. On the rear cylinder start loosening the head nuts. There is also a cap nut in by the spark plug, and two 6mm allen bolts by the cam chain galley. Follow the repair manual for reference. Once they are off you will need 2 very slim regular screw drivers.
Start tapping the driver between the head and cylinder on opposite sides. Take your time and work up with thicker screw drivers until you can pull the head off.
Place the head aside.
17. Take out the three bolts holding the cylinder and repeat with the screw drivers and ease the cylinder off the piston. Remember if the crank shaft moves don’t lose track of the rear timing mark. Stuff rags around the piston rod. Use an all or pointy small screw driver and remove the circlip from one side of the piston pin. Slide the piston pin out. Be real easy if you need to tap it a little to get it going. Remove the old piston.
Now it is time to check the end gap of the rings all rings should have around .015 to .017 inch gap. Use the old piston and follow the direction from the manual and the J&E. they will most likely be OK
18 The spreadable center oil ring goes on 1st and then the lower and upper oil ring. Then the second compression ring then the top ring (VERY IMPORTANT THE little letter on the top two rings face up) . Follow the instructions in the repair manual on how to space the rings. Make sure you get the piston on the piston rod correctly. They go on one way. Match the dome of the piston with the head. The intake valve relief is also closer to the edge of the piston. Install one of pin clips in the piston 1st and put the piston on the rod with the piston pin and secure it with the other pin clip.
19. Working with the head on your bench. Remove the cam. It’s easy. 1st remove the cam retainer., and then put the cam gear bolt back in the cam end and use it to pull on ( a pair of vise grips on the bolt will help to pull the cam). Next the valve springs will be replaced with the new dual spring kit. You have to have the cam out to remove/install the new springs. You will need to follow the repair manual on this, and the directions that come with the springs. Keep in mind that spring heights and clearances have already been worked out. You should not need shims for the new springs. Just use the new lower and upper spring retainers.
Then Slide the new cam back in the same way the old cam came out ( look at the pointer and dot ) .
Put the Cam gear back on temporarily and line up the dot to the head pointer. You will adjust the valves after the head is back on and torqued down. Follow cam install directions.
.10mm intake and .12mm exhaust. Refer to the cam install instructions
CLEAN ALL SURFACES TO READY THEM FOR NEW GASKETS. DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF GASKET MAKER OR SEALER WITH THESE NEW GASKETS, AND CHECK THAT ALL THE SPACERS AND DOWL GUIDES ARE IN THERE HOLES ON THE HEAD AND CYLINDER. REFER TO THE MANUAL
CYINDER ASSEMBLY REFER TO REPAIR MANUAL FOR PICS
21. Slide the cylinder carefully over the piston using one hand to work the rings into the cylinder. Again make sure the rings are properly lined up with the little letter N on the top two rings facing upwards
Again you want to make sure the timing mark is still on it mark thru the timing hole. Bolt the cylinder down, TQ TO SPECS
22. Put the head on Torque the bolts to spec. and follow the proper tightening procedure. Put the cam gear back on with the chain. Most 1100’s are about ½ tooth off on the rear cylinder. Just make sure to set up the cam the way the old cam came out. Meaning if the cam gear dot was a 1/2 tooth off the pointer it goes back in a 1/2 tooth off the pointer. MAKE SURE TO READ THE CAM INSTALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY. DON’T FORGET TO RESET THE CHAIN TENSIONERS
Don’t put the side cover on the head just yet.
Spin the motor 290 degrees clockwise and start over on the front cylinder. Be alert and don’t turn by the front timing mark ( I ). The easiest way is to watch the cam gear dot come up on the head pointer as you are turning the crank. When it gets close start looking for the timing mark. The front cylinder timing mark is the single line ( I ) cut in the flywheel rotor. Do not use the the mark with the FI. It is not the front timing mark.
Now Just repeat the process
AS ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK ALL WORK. SPIN THE MOTOR BY HAND 1ST.
DOUBLE CHECK ALL THE DIRECTIONS INCLUDING THE CAM INSTALL.
ENGINE BREAK IN SHOULD INCLUDE AT LEAST THREE HEAT CYCLES*** ON THE MOTOR ALONG WITH SOME NORMAL RIDING. AFTER HEAT CYCLES DO SEVERAL RUNS TO HIGH RPMS, THEN LETTING THE ENGINE DECELERATE. THIS WILL HELP WITH THE RINGS SEATING PROPERLY. I USE 3RD GEAR RUNS WHEN DOING THIS.
***Heat cycle is letting the motor cool completely before running again.
23. Reinstalling the engine into the frame is basically the reverse of taking it out. You need to tilt the motor forward and move it in on an angle with the rear going in 1st. Watch the right lower fixed engine stay and the mount on the engine case. You have to get the engine case mount to the inside of this stay. Watch the universal joint slide into the shaft pocket and make sure it goes on the shaft. There is no real easy way to explain this but to say take your time and have a 2nd person helping. It will slide into place easy.
More installation notes from jking2100 from the forum:
Its all about how you position it on the Jack. If you set it on the Jack how is looks in the bike it won't go in.
The rear cylinder has to point almost straight up so the trans is at about a 35* angle. Tilt the engine towards you as you push in and jack up the lift. As the lift is rising you straighten the engine out and tilt the trans down into the tunnel.
We fought for about two hours trying to get it in place then I pulled it out and repositioned it as stated above and it took about 10 minutes to get it where I could get the upper engine mount bolted on.
Here is link to Pix for the engine in various stages of tear-down / rebuild: Thanks Cobb!
http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z162/AussieCobb/EngineVStar1100/
Rebuilt Engine Startup Procedure - from Cobb
If you have performed a complete disassembly and rebuild of your engine then the following initial start-up process will ensure the oil lines and feeders are fully primed and oil has been pre- circulated throughout the engine to minimize start-up wear and tear.
This process assumes your engine is rebuilt, topped with fresh oil and ready to start:
1. Remove spark plugs
2. Turn off fuel cock
3. Crank engine over for approx 15-20 seconds or until oil warning light goes out.
4. Wait 30 seconds and repeat step 2
5. Replace spark plugs
6. Turn on Fuel cock
7. Start Engine - run until hot (have fan blowing on engine if more than 5 mins of stationary idle)
Also recommended is an initial rebuild engine flush. Use a lighter than normal grade of cheap dino oil 10w30 or similar and always use a new oil filter for the initial first heat-up only. After following the above start-up process, run the engine no longer than 15 minutes then completely drain the oil, remove and replace the oil filter (Yes, it is only new but its full of rubbish) and then let the engine cool down to air temperature. Add new 20w40 oil of your preference and follow the normal Break-In procedures depending on what you rebuilt/replaced.