Swingarm

Swing Arm Lubrication

Swing Arm Lubrication PDF

Time: 3+/- hours S-F (including rear wheel removal)

Additional Supplies:

Spline Grease (moly paste)

Lithium bearing/ chassis grease

Loctite

Lots of shop towels & paper towel

Some sort of “PLASTIC & RUBBER SAFE” spray cleaner (I used CRC electrical contact cleaner)

Procedure:

      1. Remove seats, ignition plate, shock access cover, upper & lower covers on both sides, and battery.
      2. Remove exhaust components as needed to remove rear tire and the right lower cover (rectifier cover).
      3. Remove the battery holder/ rectifier panel. It is held in place with several 10mm washer head bolts (if it doesn’t move freely,you probably missed one). There is one that is hard to see in a recessed area on the lower right. You will have to slip the starter relay off the holder on the rear and the (unknown) box off the right to free the panel. Be sure to un-plug the rectifier, snip the zip tie on the lower right (not the wire!!!) & route the 2 harnesses through the hole before removing the unit.
      4. Remove the tool kit panel. It is also held in place with several 10mm washer head bolts. The hard one to see is the bottom left. This is an ideal time to permanently remove that AIS stuff. You will need to release the fuel filter and fuel pump from their holding tabs. Also, remove the metal plate holding the fuel lines in place on the right side (2 Phillips screws). Once again, if it doesn’t move freely, you probably missed a screw. You will have to support the fuel pump & lines to get the panel out and while you are wrenching, do not just let it hang by the hoses & wires (future problems).
      5. Un-plug the rear light harness & remove the rear fender. You too custom guys! Once again, everyone has something different; but it boils down to the 2 “Brow” bolts on each side, the pillion bolt (or recall cap), and the 2 bolts on the front pillion bracket.
      6. Support the chassis & remove the rear wheel & final drive assembly.
      7. Linkage Assembly Removal. If you have mechanic gloves, use them now as you will hit your hand on something during this part.
      8. Remove the nut (17mm) from the upper & lower end of the “Dog Bone” link. These should be on the left side. Remove the left “dog bone” link. Push the bolt threads in to be flush with the passage opening, but do not fully remove.
      9. Important! Support the swing arm now so it will not drop in the next step!
      10. Remove the lower shock mount nut (14mm on right) and remove the bolt (17mm on left) to free the lower shock mount. The swing arm is now free to drop, so be aware!
      11. Now remove the bolts & the right “dog bone”. Do not let the center bushings come out with the bolts, it will keep the bearings cleaner. Also, be sure to support the v shaped linkage as it is now going to drop lower.
      12. Now remove the nut (14mm on left) from the frame/ linkage bracket. remove the bolt (14mm) to the right while supporting the linkage. The linkage is now free to be removed.
      13. Clean the outside of the linkage assembly before proceeding to the next step to minimize the chance of more dirt getting into the bearings.
      14. Carefully press out the center bushings from each of the pivot points. Each is a unique length, so you will know what goes where on re-assembly. Clean & de-grease the bushings. They will probably have some wear marks on them. If you can’t feel them with your finger, you should be OK to re-use them. You may want to note the orientation for bearing mating.
      15. Now, carefully clean the bearings. First, swab out the remaining grease. Do not try to pull a roll of towel through as it could snag & destroy a bearing assembly. Take your time. Now, using your PLASTIC & RUBBER SAFE spray cleaner, clean out the remaining grease residue from each of the bearings. Note that one of the pivots has a rubber seal on each end; leave this in place unless it is damaged. Take your time & do not poke the bearings with the plastic spray tube; these dudes are delicate. When the bearings are clean, set the linkage aside to let all remaining solvent evaporate.
      16. Remove the center bushing from the bike frame, where the upper “dog bone” was mounted. Clean & inspect like in 14 & 15. Keep this bushing separate, as it is the same length as the lower mount. You want to use this with the same bearings it was mated with.
      17. This is the best time to check the pivot bearings for unusual movement, as described in the Clymer’s manual. Check lateral & vertical movement. It will move a smidge, but you should not feel any free play.
      18. Swing arm removal. Remove the speed sensor from the UJ housing. Remove the rubber insert from the slip joint end. Pull back the rubber flex cover to release it from the motor; it just slips into a groove. Mine had little pull-tabs molded in to help. Remove the screw holding the rear brake line to the swing arm; this will allow enough slack to remove the swing arm for service.
      19. Swing arm pivot bolt removal. This is the toughest part. An extra set of hands is helpful here, but not absolutely necessary. I would have used an impact wrench if I had a 22mm impact socket. Instead, I used a 24” ½” breaker bar and socket. The bolt is assembled with loctite, so expect it to be really solid. Once you get the bolt out, the swing arm can be gently pulled to the rear a few inches to give access to the bearing caps.
      20. Remove the bearing caps. There should be a large washer on the inside. If not, it’s probably stuck in the grease over the bearing/ bushing. Gently pull the bushing out of the pivot bearings. It will be hourglass shaped. Note the orientation for bearing mating match. Once again, clean the bushing and bearings as noted in 14 & 15.
      21. Inspect the bearings in the linkage & upper “dog bone” mount by rolling them with you little finger; they should roll freely & smoothly. Re-grease the bearings with your little finger, using the lithium bearing/ chassis grease; rolling them to distribute grease throughout the entire assembly. Apply a light coat of grease to the bushings and slide them back into place. Wipe off excess grease from bushing ends and make sure they rotate freely.
      22. Now repeat step 21 for swing arm pivot bearings & bushings. Replace end caps (be sure the large washer is still there). Apply light coat of grease to the pivot bolt and put loctite on the bolt threads. Make sure the rubber flex boot is still on the left side and re-position the swing arm back over the bearing caps. A second person is very handy here to help hold the left cap and UJ in place while you work on the right side. Replace the pivot bolt and start the threads by hand. The swing arm should pivot without resistance or binding. Finish tightening the bolt & torque to spec. It will go in easier than it came out. Re-check the swing arm movement for anything peculiar.
      23. Re- install the linkage unit in reverse order. Torque to spec.
      24. Complete re-assembly in reverse order.

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