Tires

Stock Tire Size

Front Custom - 110 90 18

Front Classic - 130 90 16

Rear (both models) - 170 80 15

Inflation Pressure Straight from the V*Star 1100 manual:

Tire Pressure

Always inflate tires to the correct pressure as indicated in the owner's manual. However Metzeler North America has found the air pressure suggestions listed below will improve mileage and customer satisfaction especially if a emphasis is placed on running the air pressure towards the maximum as stated on the sidewall. Check cold tire pressures frequently. Correct tire pressure is crucial for safe handling. Over inflation may impair ride comfort and reduce the contact patch between the tire and driving surface of the tires. Insufficient air pressure will result in poor handling and cause a tendency for the motorcycle to "wander". In addition, improper and insufficient tire will cause accelerated tire wear, increased fuel consumption, less control and the possibilities for tire failure to due an overload/under inflated operating situation.

See YOUR Tire brand's manufacturer's guidelines for correct inflation

A few good links with tire information

Motorcycle Cruiser on Tire Pressure

Total Motorcycle.com on Tires/ Tyres

Tire Gauges

Not all tire gauges are created equal. Make sure you get a name brand top quality gauge, inexpensive ones can be as much as 5-10 lbs off.

Flat Tire Prevention / Repair

On Repairing Tubeless Tires:

This is from Dunlop's site: (complements of LowPhat)

Dunlop recommends only permanent repairs performed from the inside of the tire, using a combination patch/plug method. Never attempt a repair from the outside, or inject a sealant, or simply use an inner tube, a patch or a plug as a substitute for a proper repair.

Only a qualified tire repair shop or motorcycle tire dealer should perform repairs. Inspection of the tire and adequacy of repair becomes the responsibility of the person actually performing the repair and Dunlop does not warrant the results of a repair in any way. Combination patch/plug repair kits for use by the repair shop or dealer are available.

Before any repair should be attempted, however, a tire must be removed from the wheel and thoroughly inspected. The following are minimum guidelines for the repairer:

Tires should not be repaired if any of the following conditions exist:

1. A tire has been previously injected with a sealant/balancer.

2. The puncture is larger than 6mm (1/4") in diameter.

3. The puncture is not perpendicular to the carcass.

4. The puncture is in the tire sidewall.

5. Separation of plies, tread separation, separation of any other components.

6. Cut or broken ply cords.

7. Broken or damaged bead wires.

8. Cut or damaged chafers (bead area).

9. Deterioration of the carcass inside the tire due to "run flat" or underinflation.

10. Cracks or other damage to the integrity of the inner liner.

11. Excessive wear - tire should have at least 1/32 of an inch of tread depth, excluding tread wear indicators.

12. Cracks in sidewall or tread.

13. Impact breaks, cuts, snags or gouges that penetrate the surface.

NOTE:

1. There should be no more than one repair in any quarter of the tire and no more than two repairs per tire.

2. The wheel itself must be in good condition. Any cracked or bent wheel, however slightly, may allow the loss of air and cause subsequent deflation of the tire.

3. Following repair, the valve assembly should be replaced and the tire/wheel rebalanced.

4. Speed should not exceed 50 mph for the first 24 hours after tire repair and the repaired tire should never be used at speeds over 80 mph. The repairer is solely responsible for instructing the motorcyclist as to the restrictions to be placed on tire use following repair.

In summary, NO form of temporary repair should be attempted. Motorcycle tire repairs leave no room for error and any doubt as to inspection or adequacy of repair should be resolved by discarding the tire.

Be sure to consult our Motorcycle Tire Limited Warranty, Care and Maintenance brochure for additional information regarding the use of Dunlop tires. Seek a qualified motorcycle tire repair center for more details. NEVER ATTEMPT TO REPAIR A DAMAGED TIRE WITHOUT THE AIDE OF AN EXPERIENCED TIRE MECHANIC.

Slime Pump & Repair Kit - Members speak highly of this small package

Ride-On Tire Protection System Several members speak very highly of this additive to your tires - spreads evenly in the tire, and flows into any punctures preventing slow leaks and flats. PLUS - is reported to be an excellent means of balancing tires/wheels without ugly, rim/spoke damaging weights.

Fix-A-Flat / Green Slime Discussion The bottom line is DON'T USE THIS STUFF IN MOTORCYCLE TIRES!

Brands / Sources / Types

Tire Options:

Good Thread / Discussion - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=10996.1

A New "Contender" - Michelin Commanders - Discussion - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=31704.1

Another "Contender" - Pirelli MT66 Route - Discussion - http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=43909.1

Don't Be Fooled - Measure Your Tire Life/Handling

From DaddoCFL:

When the new rubber goes on the bike, here is what you will experience:

Wow, these tires really make this bike handle better then those “old” tires. When you change tires again, you will say exactly the same thing about the Dunlops over the Metzlers.

This is a common experience that fools a lot of riders into thinking that whatever “new” tires went on the bike are “so much better then crappy brand that I had on there before”. This is pure delusion as ANY new tire set will perform better then ANY worn tires.

So, do it the right way: Meltzer's vs. Dunlop

When you get the Meltzer's on your bike, record the mileage and the date. I have no clue as to how many miles you do a year, but the information will be useful to you.

When rear tire time rolls around again, get the Dunlop rear (the front will be just less then half worn) keep the same data on the Dunlop as you did with the Metzler and you will understand the reason for my recommendations.

Metzler

Product Info: http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/product_info/faq/index.asp

Main Web Site: http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/

Inflation Info: http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/product_info/pdf/m_full_line.pdf

Dunlop

Main Site: http://www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/main.asp

Bridgestone

Main site: http://www.motorcycle-karttires.com/

Types of Tires & Mixing Types

Daddo (DaddoCFL) :

I don’t believe that mixing different brands of tires on a bike, in most riding conditions, is going to be an issue. This is particularly true on a Cruiser like a V-Star. As long as you stay within the parameters set by the manufacturer for tire sizing and inflation pressure, you are good to go. I have ridden Dunlop (f) & Pirelli and Avon (r), Metzler (f) & Dunlop, and Pirelli (r), with no ill effects – Incidentally, I have come back to Dunlop 404’s front and rear for good!

What you can’t (safely) do is to mix Bias Ply Tires and Radial Ply Tires on the same bike. This becomes an issue when you want to switch to a different brand of tire, to replace a worn rear tread for example. If the particular tire you want is produced as a Radial Ply, and you have a Bias Ply tire on the front, then you are confronted with a decision. Either pick a different replacement tire, or plan on replacing both front and rear.

Bias and Radial ply tires have completely different dynamic properties. When they are leaned into a corner, the sidewalls and tread will deflect differently. This will create different cornering forces (which will make them want to make the turn at a slightly different rate). Bias and Radial ply tires also have very different damping characteristics which can make travel on a “textured” road kind of interesting.

Momma Yamma specifies Bias Ply tires for a reason. The frame, steering geometry and suspension of this particular bike is set up for the handling characteristics of a Bias Ply cruiser tire. There are of course those individuals who are running Radial Ply tires on their V-Stars. That is fine, and they most likely don’t see any negative differences in the ride as long as there are Radials on the front and rear. I am just more comfortable in riding on the rubber that the design engineers have determined to be the best combination of handling performance and safety for my bike.

The common "wisdom" (perhaps old wives tale) out there is that you can’t have radial tires with a tube on a wheel due to the fact that because of the way that Radial tires flex in motion and deflect while cornering, the increased friction will abrade and finally cause the tube to fail.

This does not mean that you can’t do it as a whole load of riders equip their bikes with a tube/radial combination. I’m kind of thinking that this is in line with the same advice that used to be given to sports car (wire wheel) owners back in the 60’s and early 70’s when radials were becoming popular in this country.

When you run that combination on a car tire, with considerably heavier loading for 35,000 to 50,000 miles, there could be an issue. A motorcycle, with much stickier and softer road tread will usually say bye, bye in well under 20,000 miles. I would seriously doubt that the same problem exists. Maybe there are warnings from MC tire manufacturers out there about this issue, but I have never seen them anywhere. I would think that in this litigious society, any manufacturer would be insane not to post a conspicuous warning if they seriously thought a problem existed.

If you are still uncomfortable with the possibility of a problem, most larger Harley dealers will have a source for sealing spoked wheels for running without a tube. And no, please don’t try to seal it yourself with silicone sealant like those glory seeking custom builders on TV.

If you do ultimately run tubeless, I would still go with a bias ply tire and the bike is matched to that type or response and performance.

The most important label on a tire is the sizing designation, which in this case reads "110/90H 18” This label indicates section width (110mm), aspect ratio (90 percent), speed rating (H - Up to 130 mph or 210 km/h), and wheel diameter (18 inches). In the case of a Radial tire, the construction designation (R) would follow the Aspect Ratio

Oversized Tires

Metzler 200/70-15 fits on Rear

But you will not gain much width putting it on a stock wheel. The wheel will actually pinch the extra width into additional height. Most riders that have tried one have not experienced any clearance issues.

Changing

Front Wheel Removal

- see your Shop Manual

Rear Wheel Removal

- see your shop manual

On an 1100 classic it is much easier to remove the rear fender to pull the rear wheel. In either case you will need to raise the back end of the bike in the air, either with a bike lift or with two scissors jacks under the rear frame members.

1) Remove the 4 bolts holding the rear drive to the swing arm.

2) Loosen, don’t remove, the axel pinch nuts.

3) Remove 2 brake caliper mounting bolts (and optional - remove the 1 small brake line clamp bolt – I don’t as I like to fight with the dangling parts), pull caliper off the rotor and using a zip tie or wire, hang it from the rear peg. Do not disconnect the brake line.

4) Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolt.

5) Loosen the large rear axle nut, do not remove it

6) Slide the rear wheel to the rear with the axle still installed, remove all as one piece. Continue to Guide the wheel towards the back until the drive shaft comes out of the engine. The drive shaft will stay with the final drive assembly. The brake caliper support will swing down.

7) Notice the notches in the swing arm to rest the axle in upon re-installation, as this will make your life much easier and eliminate the need for a third hand (aren't these engineers clever - lending you another hand).

REMEMBER THE ORDER AND LOCATION OF THE SPACERS AND WASHERS!!!

Thanks for the pic Steve 18apes

Don't forget to put the long spacer back into the hub if it fell out. (Shown on the right)

8) Raise the bike higher until the tire can be removed from under the fender This is really high on a Classic unless you removed the rear fender.

9) Now you can remove the axle - again: REMEMBER THE ORDER AND LOCATION OF THE SPACERS AND WASHERS!!!

10) The final drive can now be separated from the wheel. It will be snug but can just be pulled apart – you may need to lightly rock the assembly using the drive shaft as a lever. Set the final drive off to the side with the vent facing up. CAREFUL – On some bikes the machined edges are razor sharp!

11) Clean up all the excess grease with some paper towels

Reverse the process for the reinstall, sliding the axle through the final drive and hub BEFORE lifting onto the swing arm, replace the spacers and washers -- be sure to remember the order of the spacers and washers.

Lift the wheel and set the axle in the swing arm notches, it will stay there all on its own. with your left hand align the drive shaft with the u-joint, with your right hand align the caliper bracket, push the wheel forward in the swing arm with your leg. You may have to wiggle the drive shaft a little bit to get it into the splines.

Rear Wheel tightening Sequence Again- Thanks Cobb

Basically, apart from making sure your wheel is Centered, there is also a torque sequence you need to follow to ensure that everything lines up properly.

The process is basically as follows:

1. Reinstall wheel back onto bike....loosely apply the RH axle retainer.

2. install and tighten the Left Hand final drive assembly bolts to torque: 69 Nm (or 51 ft lbs)

3. tighten the Lefthand Main Axle nut to torque: 107 Nm (10.7 m-kg or 77 ft lbs)

4. Tighten the RH Axle Retainer nuts to torque: 23 Nm (2.3 m-kg or 17 ft lbs)

5. Tighten the Brake Caliper to Frame bolt to torque: 40 Nm (4.0 m-kg or 29 ft lbs)

6. Tighten Brake Caliper bolts to torque: 40 Nm (4.0 m-kg or 29 ft lbs)

If you follow the above sequence your final drive should be perfectly aligned every time as 'Shimming' is definately not recommended.

Another set of comments:

Changing Tires

Video on how to change a tubeless tire. http://www.jakewilson.com/videos.do?videoId=83

Another video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7546109776315225781

Article on DIY Tire Changing with some home made equipment: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html

Mark Holbrook Article - http://users.net1plus.com/holbrook/tireproc.htm

Adam Glass Article - http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html

Mike Saar Article - Home Brewed Tire Work - http://www.xs11.com/faq/tirefaq.shtml (From H*)

From Big Boo:

For those who are wanting to mount and balance their own tires, I run through tires on 4 bikes like a baby on cabbage....soooooo

This is what you do...

Look at harbor freight tools....they will discount their portable tire changer and motorcycle attachment regularly....now you have a decent set-up for less than $100. The built in bead breaker is really worth it...Yes you'll need a good tire iron, don't forget the handles of your large open ended wrenches, they make a great second tire iron. and also a little gadget called a bead stopper....cheap and VERY useful...first time you do this a helping hand is invaluable, but it is really just a bigger version of changing a bicycle tire...now you did change your bicycle tires right?

Now balancing...lets do this old school shall we. (it is ALL you need).....you need two straight backs...I use steel rimmed card table chairs. I kid you not.....with the wheel on the axle, axle across the back of the chairs (level of course), spin the wheel. Mark the low point (where it stops) straight down....spin again, if it stops in the same place, you have to add some weight...try a little at 90 to 180 degrees away from the bottom ..spin again...mark where it stops. add weight opposite the low spot. You do this (say one beer's worth if you drink two you ain't paying attention) you should get the tire where it does not seem to want to stop in the same place every time....damn, now you drank too much!!!! no...just kidding -- you're done that's right...can't get the tire to stop in same spot 3-4 out of 5 times, you got it balanced. Now show this to your buddies...beer in hand saying "yeah, my grand pap taught me this when I use to wrench his Vincents that he raced flat track".

DIY Bead Breaker - Pic to guide you in building your own:

Tire Size Calculator

Various measurements between 2 or more tires: http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi

Another calculator: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos

Car Tires on Bikes

On one side you have the folks who call themselves the "Dark Siders" who advocate saving the $$ or getting, to them, better performance characteristics. You can visit their forum here: http://forums.delphiforums.com/DarkSiding/messages . This is a group of riders who have tried car tires on MCs -- an none of them have reported any adverse effects, accident, failures, etc. These are the "advocates". They appear to be driven by desire to save cost, or to get some other performance benefit.

In other words, do your research, plan accordingly and be prepared to accept any consequences.