Suspension

Rear Shock Adjustment

How to Adjust Rear Shock -link to PDF.

Removing the Rear Shock / Spring Assembly

You can remove the rear shock by using a motorcycle lift (found at Sears, HarborFreight or Sam's for ~$90.00) and lifting the bike just so the rear tire is resting on the surface. I've found the easiest way to get those jacks under the bike is to use two 2x10 sections of wood under the tires. Roll it up on the wood sections first. Put 2 - 2x4's under the kick stand.

Carefully roll the jack under the bike towards the front of the frame as you can get. Strap the bike to the jack. Carefully lift the bike so that the back tire just rests on the board. Take the seat off, remove the plastic seat pan, take out the rev limiter and wiring and the fuel filter. You may also find it easier to remove the tank, but I don't think it's needed.

Next working from the left side of the bike, take off the crome side cover and the tool box cover. Remove the AIS assy and pull the plastic (tool box and transfer case) cover out.

This makes everything easily accessible. First you'll want to remove the dog bone bolts. First the lower. This is where you'll need to find the pressure balance point with the jack. Loosen the bolt, and use the jack up and down to find the spot that will take pressure off the bolt and free it up. Once the lower dog bone bolt is free, work on the lower shock / relay arm bolt. Same technique to find the free point for the bolt (move the jack up and down). Take the top bolt out and remove the shock through the seat pan area.

This is by far the easiest way to remove the shock. Taking the back wheel off is an alternative way, but it involves more weight management in that the bike is prone to be way off balance and you need to deal with a heavy back wheel assy. The seat pan path is much easier. -- Advice from Jeff Leitner - BakerBrackets

--Response from JimHartman1

Hey Jeff,

Thanks for the procedure and advice. All went well. Spring is installed, bike put back together and just waiting for the rain to stop to check it out.

The instructions were great. Any questions beforehand became answered while working through the disassembly. All became quite intuitive. The only thing I would add is that it was extremely helpful to have the Clymer service manual because of pictures and disassembly instructions. Specifically, it showers detail as to where the bolts are that need to be removed. It also provides schematics of the swing arm assembly, which I found very helpful. I followed your instructions and chose only those additional steps in the book to support your procedure. Following the Clymer steps would have resulted in taking too much stuff off.

Removal of the tool box panel would have been tough without the Clymer book. There is a bolt in the battery box that has to be removed before the tool box can be removed. Also, the battery box must be either removed or loosened enough to back the shock top bolt out far enough to remove the shock. All in all, it was a relatively easy process. Time consuming, though, for me because this was the first motorcycle disassembly I’ve ever attempted.

I spent almost as much time getting the bike up on the stand. I came up with an adapter (2 X 4‘s) to fit between the jack and the frame. The PepBoys jack was just a little small, but the 2 X 4 adapter eliminated any metal to metal contact and seems like it will be just fine. Also, I worked out a safety net by installing large eye-hooks in the ceiling rafters and hooking two tie-downs to the handle bars and one to the sissy bar. This kept all stabilizing straps out of the way, which gave practically un-restricted access to the work area

Finally, I went to three suspension shops and they all looked at the shock/spring and their eyes got big. None said that they could do it. So I took it to the Yamaha dealer and he did it in ten minutes. Charged $28.00. That was fine. I was just ready to get it back on before I forgot where everything went!

Replacing Rear Spring

Caution, Caution, Caution!! Be extremely careful, have the proper tools and equipment to do the job. The spring is under tremendous pressure and can cause serious bodily damage!!

The stock rear spring, at 575#, is considered by many / most to be a tad weak. Many opt to buy a used Road Star spring - 775# and reasonably cheap on the forum(s). (How tell a R* spring from a V* spring? -- R* spring has 8 twists, V* has 7 - thanks to Metric magic)

Other alternatives are available, including progressively wound springs with rate weights of 800-1250# - that act like 800# springs at the initial part of their compression and end up acting like 1250# springs when nearing full compression. These progressive compression springs can be thought of as the best of both worlds, soft (but not mushy) ride on easy roads, and stiff ride when the going gets rougher. They also behave very nicely for those of us who are pound challenged (overweight - big boned - massive, what ever you call it), and tend to crunch a standard stock spring and challenge an 800# replacement. Also helps if you do a fair amount to 2 ip riding and your combined weight is over 250-300#

Replacement, stronger springs are especially beneficial when lowering the bike - to avoid or minimize the chance that the lowered bike parts will impact one another. Stiffer spring means more jounce is needed to bring the parts into close proximity - and thus are better to avoid "frame clang"!

Caution Caution Caution:

The heavy coil spring is installed around the shock, and requires a great deal of compression (the rated weight of the shock) to release the "clips" that hold it on, then the removal of the shock, uncompressing the spring, compressing the new spring and the insertion of the shock and replacement of the 'clips.

If you attempt to do the compression and spring replacement yourself, you are entering very dangerous territory - if something slips, you are going to get hurt - bad!

Best way to save dollars and keep yourself safe - remove the spring shock assembly from the bike, take it and the new spring to a local shop and have them do it for you. They have the right equipment and expertise. Best choice is a suspension shop. Forum members have reported prices in then $10-$20 range - well worth your safety. -- SilverBack

Having warned you, forum members have reported multiple techniques for risking themselves - a.k.a. doing it themselves: Make sure you know what you are doing. Severe injury or death can occur when dealing with these springs.

-- Frank - o_ZooM_o - liked to use a Baron's spring compressor he bought on Phat Performance - wordy explanation is here: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=37225.1

Upper Mount - advice from Steve - Cycle Foray

-- On the right of the bike, you will have to remove the battery and loosen the battery box so you can get the top bolt out of the shock.

-- On the left (more parts to remove here), you will have to remove the chrome drive shaft beauty cover... (the one that looks like a gear box). You then need to remove the side cover, the AIS crap, and the plastic tool box. It basically covers the whole left side from the seat down.

-- Of course the seat has to come off, and the mud flap/ignition module tray has to come off too. It is a lot of removal but none of it is difficult.

-- The dog bones can stay on the bike for removing the shock.

Spring Weight Replacement Info

VStar 1100 Stock is 572 pounds spring. A Road Star Stock is 725 pounds and will fit directly onto the 1100 shock without modification. These can be found both new and used.

There are new springs available in 2 different configurations:

1.) Single weight in 800 lbs and 1000 lbs from various vendors

2.) Progressive rate springs from 800 lbs to 1000 lbs, also available from various vendors.

Progressive 465 & 420 Shock Install

Please note that the new version of the Progressive shock is 465. This replaces the 420 series shocks.

Below is a picture of the Progressive 420 shock for our 1100's

Lowering

General Thoughts on Lowering

Forum thread: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=38535.1

Lowering Kits

These are available from most motorcycle aftermarket retailers. There are several styles available. Some give you the option to select different ride heights and some are for a single height.

Please note that many riders that have used the adjustable lowering links supplied by PCS have experienced severe deformation and have had to replace them.

- click here for Cycle Foray instruction sheet - This explains how different holes in the links effect ride height

Make it yourself - measurements compliments of Steve Schneider CycleForay

Decide how much you want to lower the bike. We will use 2 inches for Sh!ts and Grins... so... 2 inches/3.6 (the almighty multiplier) = .55 inches. So what do you do now... Add the 0.55 to 5.5 (the center to center hole distance on the stock link arms)... you end up with 6.05. So you make a set of link arms (use no thinner than 1/4" steel here) with the holes 6.05 inches apart. This will result in a 2" lowered bike. Note: same math and magic multiplier work for other drop distances

Note: Factory holes are 12mm - so use 1/2 bit if you don't have metric bits.

Make it yourself - measurements compliments of George Dumpit

Trick for Bolt Removal & Install: Drostar (Drostar100)

Take the bottom loose on the "nut side" and move it out of the way. Now push the bolt back in and press down on it a little and the bushing inside the shock will slide out the other side. Now you can drop the bolt down a little (so it comes out at an angle) as you slide it out and it will clear the frame.

Leave the weight on the rear tire and the nuts will come loose with out having to hold the bolt.

And then don't take all of the weight off the rear wheel, just enough to move things around where you want them.

Adjusting Height Once Installed:

All you need is a small auto jack.

Loosen the nuts before you start raising the bike

Place the jack under the frame in the rear and just slightly raise it so you unweight the suspension, do not actually raise the tire off the ground. You will feel when the bolts free up and you can push them out.

Then you raise or lower the jack as needed until the bolts line up with the holes you want to use.

The bike will still be on the kick stand and the tire will still be on the ground so there is no danger of it falling.

How Low Can You Go?

sscusyc - If you lower the bike past the 1.75" drop your ride is gonna be lousy.......... Your bike will most likely bottom out and for sure with a passenger. You have 4.5 inches of travel minus the above maximum drop of 1.75" -- only leaves you 2.75" of travel... Now add the rider and that number becomes less... Add bags less still ... The heavier the load the worse the ride.

We recommend a 1" drop for a daily rider as well as two up riding and no more then the 1.75 for vertically challenged or those that want that lowered look and do mostly solo riding. (Shane is the owner of SS Custom Cycle Inc.)

robert65 -- I wanted the same lowered look but I was happy with my suspension at 2" down from stock, lower than this I found I bottomed out on the bigger bumps -- I have stock spring, I'm 6' 200lbs.

MDvStar -- don't go any lower than 2", I have Steve's kit too, now for a day of straight cruising i can go lower, and it does look good, just avoid quick turns and twisties, or stay at 2" you will be amazed how much lower it actually is once you get it done

JWSlusser -- I the CycleForay kit and roadie shock and am about 200 pound. I have mine set at 3.75" down with stock rims, stock size tires, and stock shock set at the hardest setting to help the bottoming out.

I also went to AutoZone and bought two rubber mounts - I think they are actually for exhaust hangers or something like that. I zip tied them to the swing arm and it helps from the swing arm connecting to the frame. It makes a smooth ride, but being the size I am are it will bottom out if you hit a hard bump if you don't have the rubber mounts. Some people have used old tires or something like that but the rubber mounts help out.

Air Ride

You will lose some overall ride quality when going with an air ride rear shock. With that said, you will gain the ability to set the bike at just about any height you'd like and adjust it to you liking in seconds with the push of a button. There are several "kits" available out there and all of them will take some modification to install on the V Star 1100. Below is a picture of the components of the Metric Magic kit.

Link to full size picture

Air Ride Kit - Build Your Own

How to - with parts list - Forum Thread: Build Your Own - CycleForay (lownox)

Air Ride "Fixes"

Platinum Air Suspension - Annihilate's DIY "Bounce" Removal: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=51725.1

Front End Modifications

Springer front ends

Shane at SS Custom Cycle has adapters to allow installation of any "fit's HD" front ends Call Shane for details.

Raked Triple Trees

These are available from several vendors at this time.

DIY Quick Easy Fork Extension

From skippy38 (Matt Arbogast) - DIY Quick Easy Fork Extension (PDF file)

Stock Front spacers for Classic - 7 1/4 inches long

Fork Gaitors - 2014 Bolt gaitors will fit the Custom forks perfectly with the removal of the chrome plastic "fork covers". The Yamaha part number for the gaitors is 1TP-F31E0-V0-00.

Lowering Forks / Front End

Progressive Suspension Drop In Lowering Kit

Install Video (HD, but still applies) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssyYeEUSVJI&feature=related

Old Trick(s) to Lowering Front End

yama_hammer :

There is an old front lowering trick, you may want to try.

You could raise the fork tubes in the triple trees approx. 3/4 inch without any adverse effects. (Note: Tim B has done this on his ride, also - up 1 inch!).

Along with that, you can also remove the tops and replace original spacers with a shorter ones, cut from a section of PVC, stack of flat washers, nickels, maybe quarters for these thicker tubes-- that be the most expensive choice, could have up to $8.00 plus invested in them forks. I'd also recommend adding an additional ounce of 15 wt. fork oil if you try these simple mods.

Replacement Front Springs

NOTE: Check the comments below Changing Front Spring Oil for helpful hints on this process - similar steps.

RJ (BuckRon):

Installing Progressive Front Springs

Progressive Instruction Sheet - Progressive Front Spring Installation Instructions

Link to forum thread discussing spacer length. Spacer Length Thread

Progressive recommends a 2" spacer length to give you approximately 3/4" preload for the V Star 1100.

Link To Progressive Website

Change Front Spring Oil

NOTE: Check the comments above under Changing Front Springs for helpful hints on this process - similar steps.

Big Daddy Cain (ccain75)

Before I take the fork apart I loosen the damper rod bolt before removing the spring. The spring puts enough pressure on the damper rod to keep it from spinning.

GenLightening (GeneraLight)

-- First, lift the front wheel off the ground, loosen only the top triple clamp bolts and remove the fork caps (be careful, the springs are still compressed some) remove the springs and insert the hose.

-- To really get the maximum amount of oil out - you will need to compress the forks - to force the oil up where you can get it

-- You won't get all of the oil and there will be some muck in the very bottom too. Fill the forks with oil (the amount will vary from the 15.7 oz that would be if you drained them completely), compress the fork a few times to pump the oil into the valving. Then compress it and check the level without the spring and the oil level should be about 4.25 inches from the top of the fork.

-- Insert the springs and carefully push the cap down and start screwing it down. The cap is aluminum and has very fine threads, easy to cross thread! Tighten the triple clamp bolts and you're done.

raymajor

Another, slightly different view of "how to" (based on the above, modified by his experience)

-- First, lift the front wheel off the ground, loosen only the top triple clamp bolts and remove the fork caps by screwing anti-clockwise (be careful, the springs are still compressed some). Connect some ¼ OD plastic hose to a vacuum pump connected to a used oil container you will need at least 3 feet of hose to reach the bottom of the fork legs. Tape the plastic hose securely to a piece of ¼ diameter rod above 2 foot long, and poke it down the centre of the fork spring to the very bottom.

-- If you turn the forks so the one you are draining is pointing down, you will be able to drain approx. 400cc of the 464cc from each fork leg. Refill the forks with oil (the amount will vary from the 464cc that would be if you drained them completely), compress the fork a few times to pump the oil into the valving. Then compress it and check the level without the spring and the oil level should be about 4.25 inches from the top of the fork. If you are careful/lazy, measure the oil you remove and replace the same quantity as you drained with new oil.

-- Carefully push the cap down and start screwing it down with finger pressure only this will require a bit of strength to push the cap down as you screw. The cap is aluminum and has very fine threads, easy to cross thread! Tighten the triple clamp bolts and you're done.

-- If you use 15wt oil in place of the standard 10wt, the front suspension will be slightly more rigid (ie rougher riding), but will dive a bit less under brakes and feel less "wallowy" in corners.

Front Fork Seal Replacement

Courtesy of ArticStar (breid11):

Fork Tin Removal

Metric Magic (TimB1007)

Support the front with the wheel about 6" off the ground, loosen the tree pinch bolts, the forks will slide down & you can remove the upper fork tins (may need to loosen the steering stem nut). You have to loosen the stem nut and raise the top tree a little bit. The forks need to be removed to get the bottom tin off. After the tops are removed you can then remove the bolts attaching the lower tins, remove the bottom tins by sliding the top fork out of the lower tree, reassemble. TimB

NOTE ON FORK TINS: The Classic fork tins will not fit on V Star 1100 Custom forks. The Custom lower forks as well as the lower triple tree need to be swapped for Classic lower forks and lower tree in order to fit.

Rake

Rake & Trial Calculator

Front End "Loose" Steering Head

Thread relating to loose stem nuts - checks & fixes: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=38533.1

Steering Head Bearings -

After market Tapered Roller Bearings - better alternative than stock:

Lower: NACHI - E32006J, FAG - 32006-X, SKF - 32006 X/Q, Timken 32006X

Upper: NACHI - E32005J, FAG - 32005-X, SKF - 32005 X/Q, Timken 32005X

(AussieCobb) - Here's a tip for ya... if you haven't got a press.

When installing the lower Roller Bearing put the old Lower Bearing Race on upside down then using a LARGE shifting spanner snug around the shaft hit it firmly with a good hammer equally around the circumference...it'll slide down bit by bit. When seated just use a drift to remove the inverted old race and your done.

I also used the old steering head races to seat the upper and lower bearing caps into the frame held in place with a flat piece of timber then whacked it into all place - piece of cake (apart from hitten me bloddy thumb the first time) OUCH!!! #$%$

( B4CChaplain) -

When installing that bottom bearing whatever you use make sure you are hitting the "inner" part of the race and not the "outer" part or you will stuff them up! They must be tapped down evenly as well... tapping on all 4 sides of the stem as you go, ya won't get anywhere just hitting them down in one spot.

Forum Thread relative to above: http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100/messages?msg=38756.1