Maybe your quesiton is answered below!
Since I started this website I've received a number of IMs via the NewScionXb users forum and a number of emails as well. Some ask questions (which is why I created the How To Section, the Useful Links page, and Useful Specs page) and some gave compliments (which inspires me to do more to my box and this site). I've combined the messages and emails here and listed them by date (most recent at the top). Paragraphs have been condensed to save screen space, and I've changed the names to initials to protect privacy. If you don't want your message on this webpage please let me know and I'll remove it.
Rear Speakers (Jun 11 2013)
Hey, cool page you have on the xb! VERY nice work! I just got a 2010 base with 20k on it and love it! But let me guess, you don’t have any kids or they are grown up? :-) I have a 3 year old daughter so will modify it slowly. Is it ok if I pick you brain on the rear speakers? Are the door panels difficult to remove? The front stock speaker’s sound good but the rear seem to sound like mud. Are you using the stock head unit or did you upgrade? I will email you some cool mods I’m working on but one is 110 power and cool gps navigation. Thanks! - PS
Hi PS, thanks for your email and your comments! I have 3 kids in their teens so they are more independent now, yes I well remember the 0 to 7 year old range...or more like I don't remember anything outside of family from that time period, we were so busy raising the kids! Anyways: yes I agree the front speakers are actually pretty decent and the rear speakers are like mud. That's why I decided to replace the rear speakers with 2-way component speakers so I could mount the rear tweeters up high on the doors. The high-mounted rear tweeters really improve the sound image. I am using the stock head unit. The door panels are typical to remove: first unscrew and remove the armrest/power window switch (1 screw), then pop off the door handle cover and remove the exposed screw, then use your fingers to gently pull the plastic door panel away from the metal door. Start at the bottom and work your way up. Unhook the plastic door panel from the top of the metal door at the window. The front and rear speakers are secured by pop rivets, you will have to drill them out. You can visit Crutchfield.com for some installation tips and a preview of what to expect. They also have a good selection of speakers, I would use either 6.5" or 6.75" speakers. Another possible solution is to install a pair of Scion xB OEM front speakers with tweeters into the rear doors. You can ask for OEM front speakers on the forums, likely someone would be happy to sell them to you. After I replaced my rear door speakers with the Kicker Component speakers, I noticed that they did not put out much bass, probably because they now put out a lot more highs than the OEM rear door speakers, and also because the head unit is not feeding them that much power. So I installed my subwoofer. Or you can get yourself a Bazooka sub box built specifically for our cars. The subwoofer is not required but it does a nice job of filling out the bottom end. Someday I may upgrade the head unit, but for now it's OK. I'm on a budget! Have fun! - BrickPig
Hatch Release (May 23 2013)
Hello there. I'm sending you an email in hopes that you can share your electrical knowledge to help with a problem I'm having. This may also interest you as a mod to do on your box. I have installed a momentary switch into the plastic piece which covers the fuel door release handle, which actuates the rear hatch motor. The wiring is setup so that when a 12v constant orange wire is grounded, normally by pressing the hatch release in the back, another wire powers the motor to release the hatch. The switch was a simple install, however there is a major issue which came up in that the catch built into the hatch does not fully release unless you simultaneously are pulling the hatch open. It is similar to how the doors catch mechanism has 3 positions: open, partially closed, and fully closed. As it is obviously impossible to open the hatch alone, I am wondering if there are any solutions which come to your mind to allow this modification to work. Aside from somehow mechanically modifying the door lock mechanism, it seems the only way to accomplish this is to have the pulse to unlock the mechanism somehow extended by a few seconds.
Let me know your thoughts, and thank you for the wonderful diys you have posted.
Hi BR, you've explained the problem very well, but I can't think of a way to solve it. I think what you're trying to do is enable a remote hatch release. I'm guessing Toyota designed it the hatch to not mechanically open all the way by itself, because then they would also have to dampen or slow down the hatch at the end of it's travel to avoid damaging the hinge. Since the hatch will not mechanically open by itself the latch will need some kind of assist to open the hatch and hold it open when the latch is activated to release remotely. A spring at the bottom lip of the hatch might do it but that's crude and will "fight" proper hatch closure. A power door lock solenoid in the hatch might work but it seems like a lot of work/weight/electrical load to get the hatch to stay open to enable this feature. I'll think about it some more...nice idea... - BrickPig
Bumper Vents (Apr 21 2013)
Hello Brick Pig, My name is JS and I am a new member on the new scion forum and a new owner of a 2010 xb I first want to thank you for sharing all of this wonderful information with all of us.You are awesome. My question is how did you make your bumper vents look so good. I tried a xtacto knife like you said but I is coming out looking nothing like your work of art, yours look OEM You may just be more patient and talented than me lol could you give me any tips, if so that would be great! Thank you very much!
Hi JS, Thanks for your thoughts and kind words. Glad you enjoyed my web pages and my work. It may help to place the vent on a flat surface, and to "prescore" the intended cut 2 or 3 or many more times before taking the plunge with the blade going all the way thru. Then work the blade back and forth as you press downward along the prescore. It takes time and a bit of practice/experience (this is where my many hours of building plastic models comes in handy). Keep trying. Every effort provides you with more experience and confidence! - BrickPig
Website and Subwoofer (Jan 22 2013)
Just wanna say thank you for your website it has been really helpful especially your under seat subwoofer. One question about that design though would it fit under the driver's side too?
Hi VL, thanks for your comments. The thing about the driver's side is there is a yaw sensor bolted to the floor under the driver's seat. I was reluctant to relocate it so I left it alone. I know of one person who moved it under the center console and so far it has been OK for him. The other thing is I doubt the floor pan on the drivers side is an exact mirror of the passenger side, more likely there are differences in the floor contours and especially at the center tunnel. If you decide to put a box under the driver's seat and move the yaw sensor, make sure you mount the sensor securely and level. Also do a lot of measuring before you build your box. Good luck! - BrickPig
Scion xB LED wiring question (Jan 1 2013)
Sorry to bother you, hopefully you don't mind. I have been reading your page on installing leds (mainly doing puddle lights and floor well lighting...for now...lol) I see the dome light circuit that you tapped into but was wondering if you ran individual positive wires all the way to that spot for each light. Do they all tie into one large tap or does each wire have it own tap? Is there a closer spot to tie in for the passenger side or did you run wires all the way over to the drivers side? Sorry for so many questions. thank you for taking the time to create your web page. Thank you, MB
Hi MB, all the wires tap into that spot. I ran the passenger side wires over to the drivers side. Since LEDs draw only a little power you can run some things in series. For example if you had underglow, you can tap just once and run the wires down to the drivers side lights, then rearward to the rear lights, then over to the passenger side lights. From that same tap, you can run a second set of wires to power the front underglow.
Have fun! - BrickPig
your scion xB (Dec 10 2012)
Hi BrickPig, Someone linked me to your site with all your xB mods and I just wanted to say that I love what you've done with it! I plan on throwing a lot of LEDs into my xb (ordering a 2013 shortly) and definitely plan on changing the horns. I am also adding the hooks that you did! Thanks again for your pics bc they make walking through the projects easier! Cheers from NYC, MTD
ps -I have owned a 2006 xb since new for 4 years, sold it, got a mercedes e350 and now going back to the xB because it's a better car!
Hey MTD, glad to hear that you are getting back into a B and that you enjoyed what I did to my ride! The 2013 looks like it will have a few tweaks done to it, including factory DRLs. Have fun! - BrickPig
xB Rear Hatch Interior Panel Removal (Dec 6 2012)
Great write-ups on the scion website……do you have instructions for removal of the rear hatch door interior panel by chance ?? Thanks
Hi BB and thanks. No never had a reason to remove the rear hatch door interior panel, so no write-up on that.
- BrickPig
XB2 Dome Lighting (Nov 26 2012)
Hello, First off, thank you for your webpage with your detailed explanation of your mods. Some cool stuff. I hope eventually to have my XB as modded as yours. I am adding more lighting right now. I put some old cold cathodes that I had lying around behind my front grills. I want them to act just as the dome light: on and off with the doors/key fob. I tapped into the engine bay fuse box for power (the 10 amp dome fuse) and ran a wire through the firewall to the fade-in/fade-out ground. This has yielded me no lights in my grill. Do I need to somehow wire in the constant ground as well? Any help would be greatly appreciated. - GT
Hi and thanks for your comments! First I would test to see if you really have power to your lights. Take the ground wire for your lights and attach it to a ground point. If the lights work, then your power is good, but if not then you need to find a working power source. If your power is good, then I would try replacing the cold cathodes with a 12v LED or conventional 12v bulb, to see if your connections are good. Try both the static ground as above, and the fade-in/fade-out ground. If the connections are good, it may be the cathodes don't like the fade-in/fade-out ground, which is actually dimmed by raising the (-) side to +12v to turn the bulb off. I found this out during "Light Frenzy 2" and got around it by using a Tip 42 PNP transistor. Good luck with your mods! - BrickPig
Hooking up interior lights of XB (Nov 20 2012)
Hey man, this is JK from the newscionxb site. First of all, I wanted to thank you VERY much for your helpful how-to(s) you created on your site. Very cool stuff and clear pictures. You rock. I gotta ask you though. When connecting those lights for interior? Obviously you would connect the fade out ground to ground, but what do you connect the hot to? Something constant hot? I'm assuming that's the way this is done on this car. Is that correct? Thanks a zillion.
That's right, you'd connect to something constant hot. You can connect both wires at the 8 conductor socket shown in HT01. - BrickPig
Thanks So Much... (Nov 11 2012):
The effort you put into your page about your xB is much appreciated. You have taken your own time to create very helpful information at no cost to those who benefit from it. That is simply wonderful. Very inspiring. I'm sure I'll be following your lead on my '08. Thanks!
Hi E, thanks for your kind words and for sharing your thoughts! - BrickPig
LED Underglow (Oct 28 2012):
hi i saw your google page and was curious if you had a link or anything to get me to find the led strip you used for your underglow. thanks! btw your car is sweet! Thanks.
Hi and thanks for your comments! I got my LED strip from eBay seller "nilreb" however I'm not sure he is still selling LED strips. I suggest you look on eBay for "white LED strip 5m waterproof -warm" and add either 3528 or 5050 to the search terms. 5 meter LED strips typically come with 120, 150, or 300 LEDs and cost between $9 and $15 shipping included. 5050 LEDs are brighter but draw more power and cost a bit more. Look for an eBay seller with good feedback. Good luck! - BrickPig
LED Courtesy Lights - HELP (Oct 26 2012):
Hey there. I have been following your xb build for awhile and finally purchased my 2012 awhile ago. I am looking to put LEDs at the bottom of my doors as courtesy lights like I did with my SVT Focus. I was hoping you had some suggestions. I want them to open when the door opens with the dome light.
Hi T, Congrats on your new car! Please go to my website and refer to Chapter 02 - Light Frenzy. The 4th picture shows the electrical connector box behind the driver's knee panel. This is where you want to tap your wires. To pull the driver's knee panel, start on the side closest to the center of the car and pull the panel straight back towards the trunk. There are 5 clips that hold the panel, you can feel them if you put your hand back behind the panel. Work your way counterclockwise around the edge of the panel and keep pulling. Unplug the wire harnesses from the switches. Once the panel is off you can see the 8-conductor connector (only 3 out of 8 positions are used). You can unplug the connector from the box, this will make wiring easier. Tap your LEDs into the middle right (+ constant power) and lower left (- fade-out ground) wires. From that point, you can run wires into your doors thru the factory rubber door wire conduits in the door frames. Just remove the kick panels for the front doors. The front doors are easy to do. If you want to also do the back doors, you need to pull the pillar panel. The wires into the back doors are very hard to run, because of their doorframe-mounted electrical connectors. I had to cut out a path for my wires in the connectors with an x-acto knife. Also getting those connectors to reseat was a royal pain. Some people don't bother running the wires thru the OEM rubber door wire conduits and instead run the wires under the trim panels but spanning the open space between the door pillar and the door. This is dangerous because if the wires get pinched or damaged it may short out your dome light ECU which costs ~$400 to replace. Also the exposed wires are ugly. Routing the wires thru the OEM rubber conduits is more work but is much safer. Lately I've been getting my LEDs from eBay, very cheap. For example you can get 5 meters of 3528 LEDs (30 LEDs per meter) for less than $10 shipped. Much cheaper than AutoZone. Quality varies however, so buy from someone with good feedback. You can also get higher densities but I wanted to keep the electrical draw low. I hope to have a How To section on my site sometime soon, to show how to pull panels. Good luck! - BrickPig
Thank you for the reply and heads up on the rear doors. I will probably only do the fronts. I find it very hard to believe that people don’t use the rubber conduits. I prefer a clean look and having the wires exposed looks horrible. I ran a bunch of led’s throughout my SVT and plan on doing the same to the xB. I appreciate all you input and will certainly post pictures when I get around to actually having the time to do it. I have pulled my door panels off already when I replaced my factory speakers (4 channel amp still needed). It seems pretty simple and straight forward. I plan on running lights under the footwells, front and back seats as well on a switch so that I can have them on when driving. I typically have always used oznium as there LED’s have always been bright and reliable. I am thinking about just running a power wire from the battery through the firewall to a switch. That way they are on their own circuit and won’t interfere with any of the other electrical systems of the car. Is there a pass through on the firewall on the driver side or is just the one on the passenger side? Sorry it took so long to reply, I sent it from my work email and then left the office early. Now if this hurricane doesn’t knock out my power I may be able to get started. -T
There are pass thrus in the firewall on both sides. The drivers side is easier to see. For my underglow I just went out and forward by cutting a hole in the OEM rubber door conduits. (see Light Frenzy 2, about 1/2 way down the page. The wires are not really noticeable.) There is also a small rubber grommet in the side of the forward door posts but it's rather high up. I used the drivers side to run a wire to power the monoblock amp for my subwoofer. An alternative to running dedicated power wire thru the firewall, is to tap off the electrical block behind the driver's knee panel. (see Light Frenzy, 4th picture) IIRC the heavy blue or white wire has constant +12v. I just poked a bare wire in there to make contact with the connector and taped it in place. I fused the new line of course. Have fun! - BrickPig
TRD Rear Swaybar (Oct 22 2012):
I read with great interest all of your write-ups and even though I am not into poetry, I enjoyed that also! My question is concerning the installation of the swaybar. Did you use an air gun to loosen/tighten the lower shock bolt? I understand it is important to torque the shock bolt and I do have a torque wrench but not an air gun. Also, did you notice any difference in the ride? Was it stiffer? Any installation problems? Thanks for sharing all your mods. -R BTW, your XB looks great!!
Hi R, Thanks for your interest and your comments! I only used hand tools to loosen/tighten the lower shock bolts. When tightening I just tightened them as much as I could. I'm still under warranty so I let Toyota check the torque. The nature of the swaybar is to transfer spring force from one side to the other if there is a difference in extension. Hence the ride is no different over a speed bump (both rear springs compress the same) but it does feel different over (say) a washboard surface (the rear behaves a bit less like a semi-independent rear and a bit more like a live axle) and especially when cornering (there is more cornering power). So it depends. All in all it I feel it was worth it. Installation is really easy, just make sure to install the ball links on the correct sides. - BrickPig
Hello BrickPig, Thanks for the quick reply and the swaybar info. All I need now is some motivation and I'll be set! Thanks again. -R
Door Switches (Sep 25 2012):
I'm trying to find a way to get power to my lights to come on and off with my doors without having to run the wires through each door, through the conduit, and up to the done light ecu.
OK well assuming the lights you want to add on don't add too much load, I would do it via the PDF instructions I sent in the previous message. Or if you pull the driver's knee panel (under the steering wheel) you can access the dome light wires via the 8-conductor plug. Actually I think the driver's knee panel is less work - just pull the panel straight back. Just be aware that the dome light is turned off by raising what would be "ground" to +12 volts. So as long as you are adding lights in parallel with the dome light wires (power and "ground"), and they don't draw too much power, you should be OK. This is assuming the lights you want to add will be in the main cabin. If you want to add lights and mount those lights on the doors themselves, I don't see how you can avoid running wires thru the door conduits. Good luck with your project!
Daytime Running Lights Project (Aug 15 2012):
BrickPig, your projects are a very good source of inspiration for me, not that I'm "copying", but your website is so well explained and documented that it makes things a lot easier! I have one question though, what if instead of using 1 strip of LEDs in the vents I put 2-3 of them side by side, almost covering the whole vent? Do you think it will be bright enough? I know it won't work for you since you're using the driver side vent for your CAI, but I have a SRI, so maybe it'll be bright enough. :/ Keep up the amazing work on your xB, I'm sure that it inspires a lot of people in the forums! Have a nice day. - MX
Thanks for your comments. "Copying" is the sincerest form of flattery! Well 2 or 3 LED strips side by side will pack more LEDs into a given area however even with that I'm not sure it will be bright enough to be seen in direct sunlight. You could try using 3528 type LEDs instead of 5050 type, the 3528 LED strips are available in higher densities (LEDs per meter) than the 5050 type. However if you just want to be noticed at dusk or at night, LED strips are enough to do the job. One thing I've learned is that even a 5050 LED is not noticed in full sun. So next time I plan to use LED lamps that draw about 1 watt each and produce about 70 lumens each. For comparison, each 5050 LED is about .24 watts and puts out between 12-20 lumens. Not sure if that will be enough, we will see. As always, have fun!
Your xB (May 24 2012):
Hey - Just wanted to let you know that I really enjoyed looking at all the mods you've done to your xB. Your blog was also very well written and photo documented - professional quality! I especially liked the horn upgrade, and have already ordered Fiamm horns from Amazon. I have a 2009 xB, but I assume they will fit. Any other mods in your future? HIDs, overhead console, LED switch back bulbs, etc...?
Hi JL, thanks very much for your comments! I do already have an overhead console, it's more for style and ambiance than function, but the price was right (free! I did a trade with another forum member). I recently replaced my white front parking lights (that are on the 2011-2012 models) with white LED bulbs, much whiter and cleaner looking light. I plan to order some whiter H11 replacement bulbs for the low beams. I don't use the high beams too much at all so I'm gonna wait on those. This long weekend I hope to install my BMW M3 style fender vents, after I do I'll add another chapter. Stay tuned!
Tanabe NF's (May 22 2012):
So how do you like the NF's so far? ...you've been using them for some time now and I'm just wondering how the ride has been... is it firm? meaning do you feel every little bump? are you bouncing off the bumps a lot? I am finding the stock ride to be a little harsh at times...depending how large the bump is. If it is this bumpy with stock setup will the NF's amplify this? what do you think? - JB
In my opinion (and others too) the Tanabe NF210 springs improve both the ride AND the handling. While the OEM springs are linear rate springs front and rear, the Tanabe210 springs are about 5% stiffer than stock but are progressive rate in the rear. This translates to a somewhat softer ride in the rear, especially when going over speed bumps. The ride is improved over stock but is still somewhat stiff. You still are not in a Camry, after all. Read this thread all the way thru, then decide. The main reason I went with NF210 was for comfort 1st, cornering 2nd, looks 3rd. This is my daily driver and I did not want to do something too radical. -Any- drop is going to affect the rear alignment and there isn't much that can be done about it, short of using shims. Have fun!
Do you think the ride quality got worse or better after installing them? This is my daily driver too and the ride quality is not what i thought is was going to be. Although it is smooth on smooth roads, while I am on the highway traveling, some of the bumps are quite jarring and was wondering if the NF's would eliminate some of this harshness. thanks for your help. - JB
I agree the xB, stock springs or NF210 springs, does not ride as nicely as one would expect. The NF210 is a softer spring initially (in the rear) because it is progressive rate, however there is less travel and it ultimately is about 5% higher spring rate than stock. So that's why some people on the ScionLife thread thought the ride was better and some thought it was worse. I kept the stock shocks, I only changed out the springs. Initially when I got my NF210 springs I thought the ride was better under all circumstances. Now that I've had them a while, I'm not so sure. That may have to do with fuzzy memory, that is, me trying to remember what the stock ride was like. Bottom line is, I feel the ride is improved over stock, and less jarring over speed bumps and most roads. I still feel it was $212 well spent, however the NF210 springs will not make your xB ride like a Camry.
Wheel Locks (May 18 2012):
Hey there, what type of lug nuts are you using? I am thinking of the gorilla spline drives...the McGard number you gave me is for wheel locks... aren't the gorillas all keyed? Thanks for the info - JB
Hi JB, when I bought my Drag 34 alloy wheels from www.discounttiredirect.com, I also bought their Wheel Installation Kit. They provide 20 spline-key wheel lugs (5 lugs per wheel) for $45. Each lug uses the same spline key. The splines are uniformly spaced, which means the spline key is not unique. (I don't know what brand it is, but I can check in a day or so.) So while it is proof against a conventional socket wrench, I bet there are a number of other folks out there with the same spline key. It's like everyone with the same size spline nut has the same key. The McGard locks are a set of 4 wheel locks with various different keys issued. So similar to house doorset locks that you buy at a hardware store, it's unlikely that someone else with McGard wheel locks has your key. (I don't mean to insult your intelligence.....just wanted to make sure you understand the concept of a wheel lock vs. a splined nut vs. a lug nut.) I don't know if the Gorilla spline drive nuts have unique key patterns, but if they claim to be a wheel lock, then I think they would have to have unique patterns. However I don't know how many different patterns there are. I read a review on Amazon that one guy bought a replacement set and got the exact same key. That's like replacing your house lockset with a new one and finding out the new locks works with your old keys. I didn't like reading that so I did not go this route. I've had good luck with McGard in the past and I like the current design that has the key at the bottom of a sleeve, it makes it almost impossible to misalign the key when torquing the lock. I currently have 4 splined nuts and 1 McGard lock on each wheel. In my opinion, the McGard wheels locks in combination with the splined lug nuts makes it pretty secure. Have fun! - BrickPig
Hey Brick, thanks for clarifying that.. I thought the spline lugs were locks until you pointed that out..I suppose they are better than traditional lug nuts being anyone walking by couldn't steal them with their lug wrench out of their car but if they had the spline key they could. I heard that using one McGard and four splines could throw off the balance of the wheel because the one McGard is heavier than the others and may cause vibration...have you experienced this? Thanks - JB
I was concerned about vibration due to unequal weight but so far that isn't a problem. BTW I checked this morning, Discount Tire Direct repackaged Gorilla spline wheel lugs. So it's cheaper on Amazon.
3A Exhaust Tip (Mar 4 2012):
Do you have a link to the exhaust tip you bought for your xB?
Hi TD, I got my 3A exhaust tip from an Autozone retail store. I agree with the review, it says 2 3/8 on the label. They also make a 3" version. I had to trim quite a bit off the end of the stock exhaust pipe, otherwise the tip would protrude too much. Also I had to cut the front end to fit over the stock pipe, maybe with the 3" tip you won't have to do that. When I was done I used a stainless steel muffler clamp to hold the tip onto the stock pipe. Was it worth it? Well the quality is only so-so, but it was a lot cheaper and a bit quicker than a TRD or other aftermarket muffler, and no welding required. If I had the $$ I would experiment with a Magnaflow muffler replacing the rear resonator, or maybe just a resonator replacement. But I have kids to send to college, so money is tight. Hope you find what you are looking for, good luck!
I really need your help, about the dome light =) (Oct 30 2011):
Hi, I really need your help, because I'm trying to install 4 led strip under both door, so it can turn on when I open the door. And I read your Google site, I tried to follow your instruction, it does helps me to find out where the dome light wire is, and I have already connected the other positive wire to the dome light wire, and connected the negative wire to the door switch, but it doesn't work. Can you teach me how to do it? And I want to add the other light to the puddle light modules like yours, it's so awesome! If you don't mind, I really want you to be my teacher! Lol .....Look forward for your reply! Thanks so much! -S9
First see if your LEDs light up by grounding the negative of your LED light to some ground point on the chassis. Doing this will test your power source, your wiring, your LED light, and LED polarity. If it does not light up, make sure your LED has power and your LED polarity is correct. If it does light up, then you have to find the right ground point for the door switches. If you want all the door light to light up no matter what door is open then you can use the proper white wire with red stripe behind the dash for your ground. It's in the same 6-pin connector with only 3 wires as the dome light power. BE CAREFUL here, some people have fried their ECUs and replacement is expensive. If you want the LED for the door to only light up when that door is open then you have to go as close as possible to the individual ground switches in the door pillars. I also used diodes to isolate the door switches. Also, see Light Frenzy. The dome light wires can be accessed if you remove the driver's knee panel and then remove the silver panel that holds the side mirror adjustment controls. It is a white 3-conductor ribbon wire with red stripes connected to a 6 conductor plug. You can double-check by tracing the path of this ribbon wire into driver's A-pillar. I don't remember the exact wire colors, but looking at the 6 conductor plug from the driver's view point:
- the upper left wire is constant ground
- the middle right wire is constant power
- the lower left wire is fade-in/fade-out ground
Good luck!
Thanks so much, I did it! And also how can I wire out to the puddle light?
I put my puddle lights under the mirrors. If you take the door panel off, then pull off the panel that holds the tweeter speaker, you can get to the 3 nuts that hold the mirror on. There is already a drain hole in the mirror on the bottom, I ran my wires thru there. Other people put their puddle lights under the car, outside and below the doors. If you do that you can run the wires forward and under the plastic inner front wheel mudguards. from there to get inside you can either poke into the rubber that surrounds the door wires, or use an existing rubber cap that is in the vertical door pillar.
You can send your questions or comments to BrickPig2011xb@gmail.com