97 - The T1814 Head Unit

 My 2011 xB came with a T1814 head unit made by Pioneer (Toyota part number PT546-00100). It can play MP3, WMA, and ACC files.

 The big knob (the Multi-Function knob) acts like a volume knob when twisted, but also can be rocked up, down, left, and right, or pushed inwards to make selections.

 Sometimes people ask how to adjust the tone on this unit, or how to reset the unit after the battery has been disconnected. Here's how:

• 1. insert the key in the Ignition and turn it 1 click to the ACC position, but do not turn the head unit on

  2. press and hold the SSP button (the lower left corner button) to enter the Setup menu. Turn the Multi-Function knob to select:

     • subwoofer (via the rear RCA jacks) on/off  (only if you have an external amplifier and separate subwoofer) select on/off by pressing the Multi-Function knob in

     • opening title - you can change the opening title displayed on the screen. If the unit was still powered when the ignition was turned off, the next time the ignition is turned on the opening title will display. Change characters by rocking the Multi-Function knob left or right. Set the text by pressing the knob.

     • SSP car type - default is TC, change to XB by pressing the Multi-Function knob in

  3. turn the ignition key to OFF, then back to the ACC position

  4. turn the head unit on by pressing the PWR button

  5. press the SSP button to enter the SSP mode and select 1 of 3 modes: Natural, Feel, or Hear, then wait for the setting to take effect and the display to return to normal

  6. press and hold the SSP button to enter the Audio Control menu. Turn the knob to select (in this order):

     • Fader/Balance - rock the knob up/down for Fader, and left/right for Balance

     • Bass - rock the knob up/down to increase/decrease Bass

     • Treble - rock the knob up/down to increase/decrease Treble

By the way, the Bass and Treble settings can be individually set per source. So for example, FM can have a different Bass/Treble setting than Aux.

• • • ASL (Automatic Sound Levelizer) - auto-adjust sound level as road noise increases. Set Low/Mid/High/off

    • SW (subwoofer - only if set to On from the Setup menu, and only works if you have an external amp connected to the rear RCA jacks) - set the level from -24 to +6, and set the phase (whatever gives the strongest bass) by pushing the Multi-Function knob

    • ASR (Sound Retriever) - set for best quality from your MP3/WMA/ACC files

    7.  press the ESC button to exit the Audio Control menu, or alternately wait for it to timeout

    8.  press the Text button to change what information is displayed (especially useful when playing MP3/WMA/ACC files)

 Looking at the back of the unit, the two rectangular white jacks on the left are the ones that do almost all of the work. They are identical on number of Toyota products as far back as the late 1980s and connect power, accessory, ground, illumination, and all four speakers. The smaller square gray jack below them and to the right is the iPod/USB connector. The almost square white jack to the right of center is for the factory XM radio kit. The 20-pin connector on the right is for steering wheel controls (plus other things that I'm not sure of).  The round socket at the far right is the antenna connector jack. I use the RCA pre-amp output jacks at the lower left corner to send signal to my 120 watt Kenwood Monoblock amp for my 8" subwoofer.

 In July of 2013 I spent several weeks thinking of the best way to upgrade my sound system: new head unit and/or external amp and/or new front door speakers. I looked into many double DIN head units on Crutchfield and Sonicelectronix, ranging in price from $160 to $450. I also looked at a few external amps. In the end I decided to just keep the OEM head unit and upgrade the front door speakers.

I like the OEM head unit because:

• 1. it's well integrated: The OEM head unit fits nicely into the hole. The OEM head unit is about 3/4" wider than a double DIN unit, so any installation kit will have filler panels on each side of an aftermarket double DIN head unit. Also I like the USB and Aux cables in the center console (with my 32 GB USB stick hidden and out of the way), so I'd have to replicate that with any double DIN aftermarket head unit.

  2. it has dedicated function buttons: The OEM head unit has dedicated single-function buttons for Power, CD, AM, FM, and USD/Aux. I really like being able to go directly from Off to whatever function I want with a single button push, and being able to turn the unit off with a single button push. All the aftermarket units I looked at combine the power On/Off and functions into One Button, or use a touchscreen (which is not tactile like physical buttons). Also, to shut off the unit, you'd have to press and hold that One Button for 2 seconds, an annoyance.

  3. the steering wheel controls already work: any aftermarket unit will require an adapter to regain the steering wheel controls. An adapter typically costs ~ $50.

  4. it has decent power: my OEM head unit manual claims a "maximum power of 160 watts, or 40 watts per speaker". Elsewhere in the manual it says a "standard speaker" is 17.5 watts. So I figure the OEM head unit is good for maybe 15 watts RMS per speaker, which is enough to drive it decently. Most aftermarket head units I looked at put out 18-20 watts RMS.

  5. no new wiring is needed: the external amps and many aftermarket head units recommend a new dedicated fused power line of 10 gauge or heavier. (I know some enthusiasts are running 4 gauge, or perhaps something even heavier.) Keeping the OEM head unit avoids that.

  6. I'm used to it: I've used it since May 2011 and I've gotten used to the controls. I'd have to learn all over again with a new unit.

  7. other experiences: see this thread Exellent, Affordable 2012 XB Speaker Upgrade from AJ_Gil who only upgraded all his speakers and was satisfied. He's a musician and has built recording studios, so it's likely he has a pretty discriminating ear.

  8. it's anti-theft: potential thieves who see my OEM head unit are likely to pass me by, and instead move on to someone else who has an aftermarket unit. In the past, I've had three of my cars broken into and the stereo stolen from one of them, it's no fun.

  9. it's cheaper: I have 2 kids in college and 1 more to send, so I need to spend money wisely.

Sure the new units offer Bluetooth, and cool services like Pandora and satellite radio, and DVD screens. But I've satisfied Bluetooth with a dedicated speaker unit mounted on my overhead console (I can make or receive phone calls), and I don't stream music from my phone or subscribe to radio services, or watch The Avengers in my car.

So, in the end I decided to upgrade the front door speakers and keep the OEM head unit. That ought to satisfy the modding itch, at least for a while...

UPDATE: on Dec 7 2024 I installed a generic Android-based Double DIN stereo and backup camera. 

  You can send your questions or comments to BrickPig2011xb@gmail.com