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This is a brief little guide to one of the most charming islands in Malaysia - Penang, and her historic capital, Georgetown.
Founded in 1786 as a British naval base on the eastern reaches of the Bay of Bengal, the island of Penang grew and flourished over the following two hundred and forty years up till today.
Without ignoring the existence of people, cultures, flora and fauna prior to the arrival of Europeans, my interest has been in the interaction between Asia and Europe, the resulting cultural confluences and emerging narratives that define what Penang is today.
The statue of Francis Light, the English founder of Georgetown in Penang, remains at the front of Fort Cornwallis. Although his name does not enjoy the same mystique and reverence as Raffles in Singapore, it is slowly but surely gaining deserved respect.
Penang's heritage is a richly woven tapestry of many Asian peoples - their histories, religions, foods, traditions and contributions.
The architecture of the inner core area of Georgetown reflects that vibrant and heady mix and yet the order, symmetry and structure of colonial administration remains palpable today.
Penangites are proud of their city, and justly so. Georgetown was declared a UNESCO Heritage City in 2008, and her residents are zealous in the upholding of this prestigious honour.
USEFUL LINKS AND WEBSITES
A personal site of a proud Penangite and a good place to start.
Penang Monthly online magazine
Can there be too much heritage in Penang? Heritage theme park?
A bookstore dedicated to the history, heritage and culture of Penang. The bookstore is a treasure in itself, and something that Singapore sorely lacks!
A PHOTOGRAPHIC JOURNAL OF PENANG
Historic Georgetown, a heady blend of the old and modern. The multi-hued red roof tops of 19th century shophouses provide an earthy contrast to, and challenge against, the rapid encroachment of modernity in the background.
Chew Jetty is one of several clan communities that still make their home on the seafront. These quaint and cosy cottages house families of various clans. The walk down the wooden planks takes you right to the sea where generations of Chinese made their living from fishing, sailing and seafaring.
Beautiful butterflies and flowers are among the natural attractions on hand at Entopia,
on the north western edge of the island.
Armenian Street vicinity, in the historic heart of Georgetown. The style and design of the shophouses appear to be some 150 years old.
Another view of the street, almost all of which are pedestrian-friendly. It pays to stroll through slowly and explore the nooks and crannies here.
The street lamps are modern, but the terraced houses are historic; the wooden window lattices, simple brick pillars and unadorned roofs suggest that this was the down-to-earth dwellings of the common inhabitants of Georgetown in her early years.
There is plenty of street art to be enjoyed all over the historic core area of Georgetown.
Tucked away humbly along Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling, near the junction with Lebuh Chulia, is Gerak Budaya, a real delightful treasure trove for any bibliophile. Perfect for spending a couple of hours browsing, the store is especially rich with all sorts of books on - you've guessed it - Penang!
A very common and attractive sight in Georgetown - street stalls in front of existing coffee shops, all arrayed with mouth-watering food. This was near Lebuh Kimberley.
Penang prawn mee. A must-try.
Sunset over Georgetown, Penang. A glorious sight to behold.
Gazing out onto the eastern reaches of the Indian Ocean.
Built in the late 19th century by the same Sarkies brothers who were responsible for the Raffles Hotel in Singapore, travellers and guests in bygone years could always expect a refreshing stay at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, along the seafront.
Remnants of a proud colonial heritage are everywhere evident in Georgetown, adding to the timeless charm of the city.
The royal cypher "GR" and the imperial crown on post boxes in Georgetown.
The letters stand for "George Rex" meaning "King George" in Latin. This dates the post box to the reigh of King George V of Britain (1910 - 1936), the grandfather of Queen Elizabeth II.
The seafront at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel.
Along Jalan Farquhar, and facing thr E & O, is the newly restored house and chapel of the old Farquhar Mission House. The original building dates back to the 1850s and served as the first meeting place of the early "Brethren" in Penang. Both buildings were in derelict condition for some decades until recent times, and now look truly resplendent once again.
In colonial times, sailing ships setting out to sea from Penang could expect a long and arduous six to eight month journey back to England. The travel time has changed today, but the sight out to sea hasn't.
The lavish home of rich Straits-born Peranakan Chinese. Now the well-advertised Pinang Peranakan Mansion (museum), the house attracts hordes of tourists today.
Sadly, the main aim of the curators/owners seem to be to stock up an excessive array of glassware, jewellery, fine dining cutlery and furniture to impress.
Not too much effort made to contextualise the items or to provide a narrative of the social history of the Straits Chinese community.
The dignified statue of Queen Victoria, a reminder of Penang's imperial heritage. The statue is at the corner of Jalan Pangkor and Jalan Burma, with the Chinese Recreation Club on one side.
The (somewhat) lush green padang of the Chinese Recreation Club, where football and cricket are still played regularly.
The view of the mainland and Butterworth from Penang island. The highlands of the central mountain ridge rise up out of the morning mists.
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