(4) Imperial Footprints

Here are some of the cities of Empire which I have personally visited before.

A brisk walk through the historic areas in any of these cities however, will reveal just how much of an imprint the Empire had and indeed, still has, on the world today.

Let us start close to home.

MALAYSIA

Known as Malaya in "British times," numerous cities and towns bear the marks of an imperial past. The legacy of empire lives on despite its neglect by present-day governments, who favour a more Malay-centric outlook.

PENANG, on the northern reaches of the Malay Peninsula, was founded by Francis Light in 1786.

Serving as a trading port and naval base before being eclipsed by Singapore to the south, the historic (UNESCO heritage-site) city of Georgetown is well worth a visit.

Penang Hill was laid out as a British hill- station. Much of old Penang still remains. I found the old Fort Cornwallis somewhat rundown. However, the museums are worth visiting, and so is the old and venerable E & O Hotel.

One asset that Penang has is a very enthusiastic literary community dedicated to researching and writing about her history. Quite a few good, readable books on Penang have been published. Check out Areca Books while there!

Some 500 km south of Penang island is the ancient town of MALACCA. Successively ruled by the Portuguese (1511), the Dutch (1641) and then the British (1824), Malacca today is famed for her rich heritage and delicious eclectic cuisine.

Unfortunately, Malacca, despite being an UNESCO heritage-city, is not as well maintained as Penang. Genuine history-buffs will quickly be swamped by hordes of day-trippers out to eat innovative food such as curled potatoes and chicken-rice balls (merely chicken rice pressed into balls and passed off as delicacy).

The original Malacca Club (built 1912), today the Proclamation of Independence Memorial.

There are some gems, of course. Stay in one of the many boutique "heritage" hotels, savour the pineapple tarts, taste the satay-celup sold at Jalan Ong Kim Wee and explore the Jonker Walk area. Look for the Malacca High School (est. 1826).

Despite the vociferous extolling of the pre-European, Malacca Sultanante era, the postcard scene (above) remains trenchantly the enduring image of the city up till today. The Stadhuys (rightmost) and Christ Church (centre) are Dutch, while the clock-tower (left) is a tribute to Queen Victoria of Britain.

The museums are many (thirteen?) but of mediocre quality. The past of Malacca is aggressively debated, with many locals claiming the city as the heart of the old Malacca Sultanate. The European era is looked upon with slight disdain, but reluctantly acknowledged. Alas, and to the town's own detriment, there exists no great bookstore here.

Canada: Vancouver, Victoria, Halifax, Kingston, Quebec City, Ottawa

Australia: Sydney, Melbourne, Hobart, Canberra

Malaysia: Penang, Malacca, Kuching

UK: London, Manchester, Glasgow

Asia: Hong Kong