Appendix 7 Willow cuttings

see also Appendix 9 Plant flash

In principle, you can take cuttings of all willow species, although most narrow-leaved species succeed somewhat more easily than some broad-leaved species.

Each species has its own individuality, each planted cutting has its own purpose, and a general rule is therefore difficult to draw up. Therefore some practical examples.

Salix alba and Salix x fragilis (White willow and Crack willow)

The best results are obtained with cuttings 2 to 2.5 cm in diameter. All side branches are pruned off so that you almost get a broomstick. This shape has the advantage that the cutting quickly forms roots and is not very sensitive to wind at the start of leaf formation and does not need a support pole.

The following applies to planting depth: as deep as possible. In practice, this is at least 40 cm, but 70-80 cm is even better. It depends on the humidity of the soil. If the soil is more wet, 40 cm is sufficient; the deeper the water has to be collected, the deeper you plant the cutting in the ground.

Before planting, bruise the bark of the cutting at the bottom to allow soil moisture to penetrate the cutting better.

Preparation. Not everyone has an auger, with or without motor. But a push-iron achieves pretty much the same result. It consists of a full iron bar, length 1 m, with a diameter of 20 to 25 mm, and at the top left and right an iron handle, see image on the left. Usually, one can easily push this push-iron into the ground to the desired depth. If not - turf can be quite resistant - the iron can be driven deeper into the ground with a heavy hammer. The handles make it easy to pull or turn the push-iron back out of the planting hole. See photos below.

The length of the cutting is chosen such that after planting, the cutting rises above the expected vegetation. If not, the young and frilly leaves will get too little light and die. So better take some margin.

Pollard willows. In order to obtain pollarded willows, slightly different measurements apply. It is better to use willow legs, which are branches with a diameter of +/- 5 cm and at least 2 m long. If you don't have an auger, use a spade to make a planting hole (at least 50 cm deep) and a support post is recommended.

For pollarded trees, consider the species in advance. The heavy branches of the hybrid S. x fragilis (Grey willow) are more fragile than those of S. alba (White willow), but they grow faster.

Planting distance: at least 5 m, depending on the variety. For example, 5 m is enough for 'sanguinea', but it is better to plant 'caerulea' at 7 m. For species recognition, see further on this website.

See also: https://www.stadlandschapleieschelde.be/media/29478/brochure_knotwilgen_nieuw_lr_171770.pdf

Shrub willows such as Salix triandra, Salix cinerea et al.

With not all willow species, you can use 'broom stems' to cut and then plant out. Here, the nodes follow too closely together so that the piece of stem between them is shorter. But equally well one can cut twigs and plant them out. We cut away a piece of twig at the bottom 1 cm below a bud, and at the top 1 cm above the bud before planting. Snip off some bark at the bottom. 

Willow cuttings can be planted out pretty much all year round. Even in full summer. To prevent the cuttings from drying out, you can plant them out in a hole so that you can water them from time to time without all that water running off.

If you do not have the opportunity to water, it is better to plant out rooted cuttings between mid-November and the end of March. Rooting is more likely because the roots are already well established (deeper) by the time the soil dries out.

Cuttings where the bottom 20 cm are put in water from September usually already give sufficient rooting. Beforehand, cut off all side branches and leaves except a few leaves at the top. 

And don't forget to label to ensure species recognition!

Cuttings of Salix caprea and its hybrids

Salix caprea is the most difficult plant to propagate and some of its hybrids do not always manage to take fully-grown cuttings. Nevertheless, it is possible. There are several methods.

First of all, with this species we take cuttings from twigs without catkins. All buds are removed except for a few at the top. We plant in the same way as described earlier, don't forget the hole.

In willow, root formation is slower, so don't lose patience.

Other methods also give results but growth is then delayed. You can take cuttings in a pot, using several pieces of twigs (cutting length 20 cm between two buds). Here you have better humidity control. Here, too, one must be patient.

Color of the rooting. The color of the root hairs can give an indication of the species. See list below.

Layoffs on a mother tree also offer the possibility of rooted cuttings. Please refer to the specific literature. This also applies to propagation by grafting.

See examples of layering.   

What is often neglected is making use of natural seed formation. A female Salix caprea (goat willow, pussy willow, great sallow) produces many seeds every year. In April, the seeds are ripe and if you follow up a bit, you can collect whole seed capsules and push the (small) seeds into the pot on top of moist soil. Beware, the seeds only germinate for a short time. So collect seeds and put them straight into the soil. 

Chances are that hybrids will emerge later, but Salix caprea will in any case be one of the parents.

See photos examples with seeds from female S. x multinervis and S. x reichardtii.     

Color root hairs.  -> Appendix 11  Root hairs

 Pink color: S. euxina; S. x fragilis; S. pentandra; S. triandra; S. daphnoides; S. eleagnos; S. purpurea; S. babylonica; S. aegyptiaca; S. myrsinifolia; all hybrids with this parent.

White color: S. alba; S. viminalis; S. aurita; S. cinerea; S. appendiculata; S. glabra; S. udensis 'Sekka'; S. irrorata; S. gracilistyla; S. apennina

This list can be further supplemented.