Sitting in Chairs: James Robinson Caldwell (Left), Isabella Abney North (Caldwell)
Tall left-standing girl: Caroline Waller (Caldwell) (wife of John North Caldwell – Son of James R. Caldwell & Isabella A. North)
Children are likely the children of Caroline Waller, namely LTR; Annie, James, Robert in the arms of the black woman (possibly Laura Holmes), and Isabel Caldwell.
Little black girl and gentleman – unknown
Source: Foxfire Reality"Three miles east of Lewisburg, on the banks of the Greenbrier River, is the large brick house now known as “Elmhurst farm”. Located on part of the Anderson lands, the tavern was built in 1824 (making it 197 years old) by Henry B. Hunter, son-in-Law of Captain John Anderson, whose home, Anderson mansion, was within sight on the opposite side of the river. It was operated for years as a stage stop, being only a few yards from the toll bridge over which passed the east and west stage and wagon road. This bridge was erected in 1821, and the road improved and reconstructed shortly afterwards. The tavern, with its extensive acreage, was sold in 1848 at auction, together with a second tract land, including a gristmill, in the court proceeding of Allen T. Caperton, Executor of Henry Erskine Estate v. Henry B. Hunter heirs. It was bought by John A. North, who, in 1851, presented the tavern as a wedding present to his daughter, Isabelle (Mrs. James R. Caldwell). The Caldwell's took up their residence there about two years later.
The tavern had been a favorite stopping place in the earlier days. It was especially convenient as an attractive spot for the so-called “Picnic Parties” from the Old White, six miles away, though they were anything but rustic affairs. Dozens of people drove into the grounds in their fashionable equipages, and impressive names among those present were the rule rather than the exception. Furbelows and frills, delicacies and champagne, topped off with a band to add to the general festivity, made them extremely gala occasions.
The early writer, Mark Pencil, describes such a party held on “very dust day” August 25, 1837 in which Mr. Van Buren, President of the United States, and his secretary of war were honored guests. Since Mr. Van Buren was a widower, this was strictly a masculine affair, much to the chagrin of the languishing belles at the White. They were truly bereft, for the hundred men who attended the party must have been the most desirable of the beaux.
Served under “a myrtle leaved canopy overhead,” the quests sat down to a lavish assortment of the finest foods obtainable and the choicest of southern dishes, accompanied by the music of popping corks, all of which must have been most sustainable- as the party lasted from two until seven o’clock.
The tavern, now a few feet lower than present highway, was originally on the same level as the turnpike. It was well placed to appeal to the weary traveler, who, pausing to pay toll at the picturesque and dusty old covered bridge, (Replaced in 1932 by a bridge of steel and concrete.) could not fail to observe the charm of the tree-shaded inn by the river. Mr. Hunter also offered other inducements by operating a large wagon and blacksmith shop nearby, as well as a gristmill. He had even obtained exemptions from the 6 and quarter bridge toll not only for himself and his family but for his customers as well. All this made the Hunter accommodations irresistible, and a failure to stop seemed almost unsocial.
The wooden floors of the old bridge resounded to the tramp of both Northern and Southern armies in the Civil War. Following the Battle of Lewisburg (1862), the retreating Confederates under General Heth burned the bridge, (A ferry was later established by Mr. Hunter, and a son, Henry F. Hunter, lost his life by drowning at this spot. The river was in flood, and in an attempt to secure the ferry more firmly to the bank, the cable broke, and the son was stuck and thrown into the swirling water) to retard the enemy, perhaps not knowing that Anderson’s Ford, the early Indian Train Crossing, was nearby. Indentations of breastworks thrown up by the Confederates my still be seen in the fields near the house. As well as the site where the artillery was mounted on steep Goat Hill across the road from the tavern. In the fighting, several shells struck the building, and one corner was badly damaged, broken bricks in the kitchen walls still show the marks of glancing shots.
So favorable located for peacetime travel, the tavern, then the home of the Caldwell family, proved most dangerously situated in time of war. It remained occupied, however, because of a series of illnesses. In 1861 the Caldwell had suffered the crushing loss of three of their young daughters from diphtheria, and again in 1864 were concerned because of the serious illness of their mother, Mrs. James Caldwell. Owing to her condition the family had been unable to flee to safety when the news of Hunter’s approach in his retreated from Lynchburg, and all they could do was to conceal their most valued possessions as best they might. The silverware was buried under the floor of a poultry house, which still stands.
Hunter's men, separated from their food supplies, were foraging off of the country, leaving destruction and hardship in their wake. When the Federal troops arrived, their intention was to burn the house and other buildings. The officer in charge was told of the illness of Mrs. Caldwell, but, thinking it only a feigned excuse he ordered his surgeon to examine her. Finding her condition as critical as it had been reported, the physician stated it would undoubtedly kill her to be moved. So Elmhurst escaped the torched. A short distance away, however on Howard's Creek, the Caldwell gristmill, built in 1853, did not fare so well; it and the barn were burned to the ground. (A second mill, erected in 1872, was sold 25 years later to a Mr. Mason.) The house, with its long, deep-set windows and very thick walls, is enormous, with at least twenty rooms and six chimneys. A large double porch, the first floor of the is barely above one step above ground, is supported by four tall, square, wood columns extending to the roof. A step-down wood trim decorates the front of the roof. A particularly lovely doorway of reeded pilasters, with unusual circular glass side panels and glass over door design, opens into a very broad central hall, which extends the depth of the building. At the end of the hall, a wide stairway leads to the second color. Great square rooms, one measuring 22 feet, opening into this and a similar hall above. Hanging between the front windows in the first room to the left of the entrance is a long, narrow mirror which once graced the parlor at the Old White. In this and other rooms there are also a number of fine pieces of antique furniture which belonged to earlier members of the North and the Caldwell families- a sideboard, a secretary, a beautiful circular pedestal table, and other heirlooms. On the stair landing is the grandfather clock one owned by John A. North. The house contains several fine hand carved mantels some with reeded half-columns and sunburst medallions. In later years all the woodwork has been painted ivory, and none of the original color is now in evidence.
The room is used now as a kitchen was originally the dining-room. It still has its low wainscoting around the walls and its carved mantel. Behind the cooking stove! Beyond this room, on a lower level is the original kitchen with two rooms above it. Has a great arched fireplace, with Dutch ovens on each side, a real Williamsburg kitchen. A partition divides in from a quaint stairway to the rooms above.
At one time this property was sold to Ashford M. Caldwell, who was unrelated to the family. This Mr. Caldwell appears to have done a number of grievous things to the hours, including the removal of all the fine box locks from the large 42 inch doors and their replacement with, "New” china door knobs. One wonders if the old locks may yet be buried in the mud of the convenient near-by river bed. Another of his sins was the removal of all the small-paned window glass and the substitution of pans separated by one vertical division. Luckily, the former owners repented of the sale, and in a few years John North Caldwell bought back the house and about 40 acres of the original holdings.
In one of the lower rooms is a pair of amusing wrought-iron and irons, figures a little nigro boys with caps on their heads. They were purchased by me. John A North while in the city on one occasion. He wrote Mrs. North what he was bringing her a present of a “Pair of little black boys” assuming, of course, that he meant to slaves, she at once set about arranging quarters and making other preparations for their arrival. Imagine her surprise when they turned out to be about twelve inches high and of solid iron!
Recently, in the removal of several layers of old wall paper in one of the rooms, a number of names were discovered written on the plaster. No record was kept of them, but the dates of 1831 and 1833 and the name Montgomery from Augusta” are remembered. This interesting building, with its wonderful spreading elm tree, which measures more than 20 feet in circumference and for which the place was named “Elmhurst”. Some of the latter’s children now own and occupy the house. In later years, is yet in the possession of the descendants of John A. North, who grandson J. North Caldwell, died in and the traveler may still secure lodging and good Southern cooking its roof."
“Isabelle was born on June 21, 1824, to John and Charlotte North. Like her sisters, Isabelle likely went to the Lewisburg Academy before she married James Robinson Caldwell on November 24, 1852. James Robinson Caldwell was born in 1820 in Augusta County to Arabella VanLear and David Caldwell. James had "a keen relish for the humorous and the ludicrous or comic in an incident or circumstances often provoked him to immoderate laughter." John North gave Elmhurst, a beautiful brick house on the banks of the Greenbrier River about three miles east of Lewisburg, to Isabelle and James. Isabelle and James lived at Elmhurst for the rest of their lives and had six children. James lost the majority of his hearing when he was quite young, but this "misfortune he bore with patience and without a murmur, and it did not in the least affect, unfavorably, his naturally genial disposition. Isabelle fell sick in July 1853 while pregnant with her first child, struck at the same time as her sister, Mary. Her cousin, Maria E. Horton, worried that "Cousin I[sabelle] looks very badly indeed and they fear she will not live through her tril." Due to her sickness and pregnancy, Isabelle stayed with her parents for nearly a year while her husband was away on business. Her uncle, Johnson Reynolds, described her as "very lean, and emaciated...so inactive, that she cannot walk as far as this place. In fact, she is so very weak. And does little else but lie and sleep. Her friends are apprehensive." Thankfully Isabelle recovered and bore her child, Margaret Caldwell, on November 15, 1853. Baby Margaret was named after Isabelle's sister, Margaret, who had died two years previously. Maria Horton described Margaret as "really a fine looking babe. Bright blue eyes, a tolerably sizeable nose, a very pretty mouth & brown hair. Its cheeks are the fattest things I ever saw. Its mother seems very proud of it." Charlotte was previously depicted as "smiling and well pleased with Belle's success" after having her first child, yet two years later in May 1855, Charlotte stated that "Isabells child can't walk or talk. It is nothing but a lump of fat." Johnson Reynolds in October the same year agreed that "her child is a great fat girl, tolerably good looking better indeed than you wd. have expected, but the child can't talk a word." 106 He also described Isabelle as "broken very much so' though there is no explanation of why Isabelle looks broken. Isabelle was possibly suffering from another sickness. Three years later on February 11, 1856, Charlotte Blain Caldwell was born. When John North died in 1857, Charlotte North moved in with Isabelle and James, where she stayed until her death in 1883. A year after John North's death on July 17, 1858, John North Caldwell was born. In 1860, James and Isabelle were living with their four children and Isabelle's mother, Charlotte North at Elmhurst. Their real estate was valued at $10,000 and personal estate valued at $10,346. James worked the land as a farmer. Three days after the official start of the Civil War, Arabella VanLear Caldwell was born on April 15, 1860.112 During the Civil War, their house was in a strategic position for both armies and was accosted by each side. The Caldwells were also ravaged by illness in late 1861. James and Isabelle lost three daughters from diphtheria: Charlotte, age five, on December 12, and Margaret, age eight, and Arabella, age one, both on December 13. Ann Reynolds, their uncle-in-law's second wife, described Charlotte North's health as "delicate and Isabella's [health]. Isabella lost her 3 daughters in two weeks. Her son John North is very delicate." Mattie J. Caldwell was born sometime in 1861-the exact date unknown. After the Battle of Lewisburg on May 23, 1862, the retreating Confederate army burned the bridge over the Greenbrier River by Elmhurst-no doubt making it very difficult for the family to travel into town. James Caldwell did not serve in the Confederate Army, possibly due to his deafness. Mary Davis Caldwell was born on October 5, 1866. Charlotte North died on April 22, 1883-living to see her first grandchild, Mattie J. Caldwell, wed on March 28, 1883. Isabelle died on May 7, 1897, at age seventy-three. Cause of death was "a peculiar infection of one of her feet, which had become completely hardened and as the doctors said; ossified, resulting probably from an injury to the leg, received some years ago." Her death record stated that she suffered for two months before she died. In her obituary, Isabelle was described as "loved and honored...to the poor and needy she was ever kind, considerate and helpful...as a wife and mother, the best proof of her affection, love, and devotion was the anxious care, tender solicitude and loving ministrations shown so unremittingly in the constant attentions of those near and dear to her through her protracted and trying illness."
After Isabelle's death, James moved in with their two daughters Mattie and Mary in Lewisburg. In 1903, James suffered a stroke which left his body partially paralyzed, and he spent the next year bedridden. James died on February 1, 1904, at age eighty-three. In his obituary, he was described as "an exceptionally good man, scrupulously correct and honest in all his dealings, and holding to the end of a long life the respect, confidence and esteem of all to whom he was known....he was patient, uncomplaining, unselfish, indulgent to his children and kind to the poor."
Enslaved People owned by the Caldwells
In 1850, James Caldwell owned ten enslaved people: one man, age sixty, one woman, age forty-five, one woman, age forty, one man, age thirty, one man, age twenty-one, one man, age nineteen, one woman, age eighteen, another woman, age eighteen, one boy, age seventeen, and one boy, age one month. Two enslaved women, Maria and Laura, were given to Isabelle North when she married James Caldwell in 1852. Maria and Laura were referenced when Mary M. (Drinan) Lewis wrote to Emeline (Reynolds) Lewis in February 1854, declaring, "don't you envy Bell [Isabelle North], with Laura for her sole dependence for the kitchen & Maria for a nurse. I think they ought to swao [sic] off two & two of their darkies, for one sensible 'nigger." Maria was not mentioned again. James Caldwell bought two enslaved women in 1857: Kitty, age twelve, and Rachael, age twenty, as well as their future increase, for $1275. In 1860, James owned nine enslaved people: a fifty-year-old man, a forty-eight-year-old man, a forty-eight-year-old woman, a thirty-year-old woman, a twenty-eight-year-old man, a twenty-two-year-old woman, a fifteen-year-old boy, a nine-year-old boy, and a nine-year-old girl. In 1864, James sold Rachel for $900. She was twenty-seven years old and a year away from emancipation. Laura is the only person with existing information about her life after slavery. The difficulty of finding other people is due to the inability to connect first names to chosen last names after emancipation. Much of the information about Laura is from a newspaper article pasted in a Caldwell family scrapbook; the newspaper name and date are both unmarked. The newspaper article, inaccurate and racist in its description of Laura, did provide some key insights into her life. After slavery, Laura and her mother, Mary, took the last name Skyles. Laura Skyles married Anthony Holmes on November 15, 1866. According to the article, Laura was Isabelle's personal maid before the Civil War and continued as a nurse to her children after emancipation. She also nursed the children of John North Caldwell, Isabelle's son. Laura and Anthony later moved to White Sulphur Springs where Anthony worked as a pullman porter running trains between White Sulphur Springs and Staunton. They had five children: Mary, Charles, William, Lilly, and Laura. Laura's daughter Mary married community leader Robert Riddle who, with the help of their son John, started the Volunteer African American Fire Department in Ronceverte. John Riddle, Laura's grandson, helped write a letter to the Ronceverte mayor protesting local abuse toward African Americans. Anthony Holmes died of congestion of the lungs on April 2, 1889. Laura Holmes died on July 16, 1937, at almost one hundred years old. She died of pneumonia in her daughter Mary J. Riddle's house in Ronceverte. The newspaper article about Laura is from a scrapbook in the Caldwell-North Collection at the Greenbrier Historical Society. On the same page are several other articles that mention Jennie Morris, Charles Lee, Emma Cooley, George Gardner, Griffin Johnson, and Willie Richard Woodson, and contain pictures of five black woman with the names of Jennie, Minnie, Lelia, Grace, and Fannie. No connection has been proven yet, but it is possible that these people were also enslaved by the Caldwells or Norths, or their parents were. In the same collection, there is a letter from a Lelia Freeman Toliver sent to Miss Mattie Caldwell, Isabelle and James's daughter. Lelia wrote from the Bluefield Colored Institute stating that "I am still deeply grateful to you for making it possible for me to do the one great thing of my life." There is a story that the Caldwells paid for the education of some of their former enslaved people, and this letter hints at this, though Lelia had been born free. There is no clear evidence that these people listed on the scrapbook page wer"e enslaved by the Norths and Caldwells; yet, it is possible.”
"Wanted: A charming ghost to haunt bed and breakfast Inn near Lewisburg. There’s no sign in the window, but the owners say it would be nice to have a ghost on the premises. “I’d love to have a ghost here.” Says Joan Jeter who opened the Greenbrier River Inn last summer at Caldwell. “Everyone asks, but the truth is, there’s no ghost here we know of nevertheless, the atmosphere surrounding this pioneer structure would make a perfect setting for any kind of mystery story, especially a frontier mystery with a focus on West Virginia early history. A giant elm tree spreads it’s graceful branches over the house, which has become one of the State’s newest and oldest inns, offering bed and breakfast an historic southern mansion not far from the farmed health spa at White Sulphur. “It’s quite an adventure for us.” Says Joan, 55, a New York native. “It’s taken a lot of hard work, but it’s been worth it.” Joan and her husband Jim bought the house last July. “We wear a lot of hats.” Joan says with a grin. “Jim is a Charleston attorney. I am a nurse. We’re both sheep farmers at Organ Cave. Now we’re innkeepers, too. It’s marvelous.” Built in 1824, the inn was visited by President Martin Van Buren, Robert E. Lee and other notable during the 19th century. The old structure took a shelling from cannons during the Civil War, when the house was caught in the crossfire between the Union and Confederate forces following the battle of Lewisburg . It is on the National Register of Historic Places. “The building was nearly burned by union soldiers, but there was a women inside who was too sick to be moved out,” Joan explains. “The Union commander had the women examined by his own physician and then gave up on the idea of burning it.” But the building’s history goes back further then the civil war. The Lobby of the Inn is called the Vann Buren Room after the U.S. president who was honored there 140 years ago. Last summer the Jeters worked at restoring the old structure. They removed the false ceilings, painted some of the wood work, put down new wooden floors, uncovered and reopened old fireplaces and refurbished the building with dozens of fine fixtures. All seven bedrooms have a private bath and cable television. But that’s only the beginning. The inn offers fishing and a launch for small boats in the Greenbrier River. It features a tennis court and a river nature walk. “The inn has for fireplaces open.” Joan explains “We’re going to open more later. We’re expecting busy activity this spring. We are making this place available for cocktail parties. We’re having them catered. “We’ve weekend couples who flew in and rented the entire place.” Joan is proud of her furnishings: Oriental rugs, antique beds, old paintings, crystal chandeliers, wooden staircases, tintype photographs, crocks and more. She says the Greenbrier Inn is the only bed-and-breakfast inn for hundreds of miles in any direction. Built in 1824 by Henry B. Hunter to serve as a stagecoach stop, the building has been restored to its original purpose, according to the new owner. But there’s one thing that’s still missing from the old manse. “If I could scare up a ghost, I certainly would,” Joan jokes at the inn. “I’d love to have a ghost here, a charming old spirit that looked over children, but I’m afraid we don’t."
"Caldwell ----- The warm, red exterior of Elmhurst peeks thought the lush growth that screens it from the vehicles whizzing by on the nearly highway. Follow the gravel driveway past the house to catch two vistas in quick secession: the restless waters of the Greenbrier River and a field scattered with wildflowers. Then watch for three dogs to rush forward and greet your car with ecstatic barks and wags. Give them a judicious pat or two, and your newfound friends promptly nudge you toward a cozy back porch filled with wicker furniture.
Should you desire a more formal greeting take a quick turn to the left just after you pull into the driveway. You end up at the imposing front entrance of this former stagecoach stop, where four majestic white pillars stretch high above the front door.
Built in 1824 by Henry Hunter, Elmhurst has proved mostly impervious to the ravagers of war, Mother Nature and time. From its original four rooms and loft, it has grown into a luxurious two-story residence. On June 10, owner Debra McClung is opening it to the public as part of a home and garden tour sponsored by the Garden Clubs of the Greenbrier River.
“I have wanted to do this for some time and this will be my last opportunity,” said McClung, who plans to sell the house. Elmhurst reverted to its original name when McClung and her late husband, David purchased it in 1989. At the time, it was known as the Greenbrier River Inn, bed and breakfast.
Room by room, the couple transformed the house into the proverbial showplace. Debra McClung interior design background --- she owns Debra’s House of Design in Lewisburg – made the task easier.
Vivid hues, dramatic patterns, antiques and eclectic collectibles dominated Elmhurst first floor. McClung has tried to incorporate the house’s storied history by using items she has in the library she has picked up over the years. Some of the books on the library, for example originate from the Caldwell estate because the towns founding family one occupied the house. A portrait of President Martin van Buren also hangs in the Library, a tribute to long ago party at Elmhurst in his honor.
“In the true Decorating sense I have collected things and put them together,” she said. The crimson walls of the front hallway are topped with crown molding that McClung designed and repeated in various parts of the house. Red floral Oriented rugs are scattered on the heart pine floor. A sofa and two chairs create a conservative area in the middle of the hallway, where a framed photograph of the Caldwell family stands on one end table. The all-white front bedroom contains an iron bedstead with floral pillow shams that once belong to McClung grandmother. “My grandmother packed away things so perfectly,” she said, in reference to the shams’ well-preserved condition.. Across the hall in the living room, Kelly green walls are punctuated by a pink fireplace mantel and large windows with curtains of Irish linen burnout damask. The curtains once hung in the cottage at the Greenbrier that boasted an interior design by Carleton Varney. A baby grand piano stands in one corner, while love seats, a sofa and a glass-topped table in the middle of the room offer a place to relax .
The adjacent formal dining room, painted in pale lemon, features a table set with a familiar green and pink rhododendron pattern of The Greenbrier everyday china. Pink Fostoria glassware, antique demitasse cups in various colors and silverware in a Greek-inspired pattern help to round out the elegant but casual look. McClung gives it a personal twist with candles in tiny pastel pots and a distinctive centerpiece made of a small white Chippendale bench scattered with ivy. With a handful of whimsical touches, the kitchen demonstrates that practicality need not be sacrificed for creativity. Ample space allows McClung the freedom to display collectibles such as dinner plates, a wooden highchair, a pink grandfather clock and a child’s tea table. The multicolored floral wallpaper is complemented by pale blue-green cabinet, yellow window frames, white appliances and a pink-and-white pattern floor.
“Everybody always ends up in the kitchen that’s for sure,” she said. Elmhurst’s original kitchen, complete the original walk-in fire place and built-in ovens for cooking, has become the family room. The low, wooden-beamed ceiling, cream brick walls, green carpet and ample selection couch make in an ideal entertainment center for McClung’s college-age sons, Justin and Christopher. In fact, she added, her sons and their friends feel totally at home in Elmhurst. “That’s the neat thing about this house. All the kids want to be here and hang out.”
Hand drawn sketch of Caldwell Covered Bridge & Elmhurst across the river from 1878.
Source: Harper's New Monthly Magazine. v.57 June-Nov.1878, Pg. 341
The old Caldwell haunted house at Caldwell, W. Va. where all the slaves made their home after the war.
Source: Greenbrier Historical Society1872, photograph shows African Americans resting on roadside with covered wagons, at Caldwell near the Greenbrier Bridge in West Virginia.
(Strongly suggested in from of the Elmhurst Mansion)
ca. 1928
Source: Facebook