Rope Care & Knots
Lesson Objectives
Students are expected to know how to identify and correctly tie the following knots and hitches:
(These knots will be tested in the final assessment)
Overhand Knot
Rewoven Figure 8
Figure 8 on Bight
Clove Hitch
Girth Hitch
Prusik Hitch
Autoblock Hitch
Double Fisherman's Knot
Alpine Butterfly Knot
Additionally, students should be able to demonstrate the following:
Basic practices to prevent rope damage
Butterfly coil a rope
Backpack coil a rope
Knots, Bends, and Hitches
Overhand Knot
Rewoven Figure 8
Figure 8 on a Bight
Clove Hitch
Girth Hirth
Prusik Hitch
Autoblock Hitch
Double Fisherman's
Alpine Butterfly
Other useful Knots to know: Munter Hitch, Bowline, and Water Knot
www.animatedknots.com is another great resource for step-by-step instructions
Rope Care Best Practices
Avoid stepping on the rope, especially with crampons.
Keep climbing ropes away from chemical products as they are susceptible to deterioration from certain chemicals. Car fluids, which may collect on pavement, can be particularly damaging, so do not set down ropes in parking lots.
Store ropes out of direct sunlight in a cool, dry place. Prolonged UV exposure will weaken a rope.
Try to keep the rope clean. Particles of soil and rock wear down the nylon filaments, so use a tarp or rope bag under the rope when possible.
Treat the rope as if it was your own and as if your safety will depend on it—because it will.
Always alert others by shouting "ROPE!" before throwing the end of the rope off of a ledge.
Coiling a Rope
One of the most distinctive features of an alpine climber is the rope tied to the pack. Ropes are generally coiled before they are stored or carried. This helps keep the rope neat and avoids excessive tangling. The Butterfly Coil is frequently used because it is easy to carry over the top of a backpack and flakes out without twists.
Inspecting and Caring for Climbing Rope
It's good practice to always check that your rope is free of cuts and other damage before going out. This is especially true if you aren't familiar with the rope that you are using. Ropes should be carefully checked inch-by-inch, as damage may not be obvious. This is for the safety of yourself and your teammates.
Things to look out for:
Cuts
Burns
Flat or soft spots
Sheath bunching up over the core
Knowledge Check
Please complete the required knowledge check before moving on:
Chapter 9, Basic Safety System, Rope Care, "Retiring a Rope", p 152
Chapter 9, Basic Safety System, "Rope Care", p 152-153
Chapter 9, Basic Safety System, "Coiling the Rope", p 153