Rappelling
Lesson Objectives
After reading this page students should be able to:
Demonstrate proper device setup for rappelling, including a "third-hand"
Understand the rappel sequence and apply the B.A.R.K. safety check before rappelling
Use proper body & hand position and techniques while rappelling
Demonstrate proper verbal command sequences when rappelling
Demonstrate a firefighter’s belay
Rappeling
Whether you just arrived at the top of a rock pitch or summit of a mountain, you will eventually have to descend the route. Rappelling (or abseiling) may be the safest and fastest way of descending. Rappelling is the controlled slide down a climbing rope primarily using a tubular belay device.
By using the techniques described below, rappelling is safe and secure. However, it should be noted that a high proportion of climbing accidents are related to rappelling. Please take time to understand the material below and work with your team leaders and assistants to thoroughly practice rappelling.
Setting up a Rappel Device in the "Extended Rappel" Configuration
BCEP recommends rappelling using the extended rappel configuration. This is one of the most common ways to set up a rappel and allows you to remain in an ergonomic position while descending. Please view the "Rock Climbing: How to Rappel" video by REI below. Step by step instructions are included after the video.
Please note: The climber in the REI video is using a Personal Anchor System (PAS) by Metolius. You will likely be using a double-length runner. There are many ways to set up an extended rappel, and how you choose to set up your system will be personal - which is fine, as long as you adhere to the basic safety requirements - and as long as you are able to weight your system while creating slack in the remaining extension.
See the "How to Set Up a Rappel Extension" video by Outdoor Research for runner examples.
Rappel Setup Instructions:
Note: In BCEP and A and B level climbs, your climb leader or assistant will likely prepare the anchor and rope for rappel. You do not need to know how to prepare the anchor and rope, but it is helpful verify a few safety components before your rappel. As always, climbers keep each other safe by checking each other's work. See the BARK section for safety check details.
Attach yourself securely to the anchor using a personal protection leash tied with limiter knots (see the Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing "Connecting to the Anchor" section for more info). Any time you are close to an edge, be sure to attach yourself to the anchor.
Attach your third-hand (Autoblock, Hollowblock, or accessory cord loop) to your belay loop using a large locking carabiner. Pull up a bight of rope and attach your third-hand to the rope using an autoblock hitch. Test the autoblock hitch to ensure it's properly grabbing the rope. By attaching your third-hand first, you can use it to hold up the weight of the rope making attaching your tubular belay device easier.
Grab both strands of the rope and push them through both sides of the tubular belay device. Clip a large locking carabiner through both sides of the rope and the belay device's wire. Clip the carabiner to your protection leash between the first knot and your belay loop. Ensure the carabiner is locked and the belay device is oriented vertically without significant twits.
It is now time to run through your safety checks using the BARK method (see below). This is the most important part of a rappel setup! Please follow the BARK instructions carefully and methodically. Far too many climbing accidents are caused by skipping this step.
When your BARK check is complete, it is time to weight the system to verify everything works correctly. Grab the rope under the rappel device and choke up as much slack as possible. Sit back in your harness. Your weight should be 100% on the rappel device. NOTE: If the third-hand is too close to the rappel device during the weight check, students may mistakenly weight the third-hand instead of the rappel device. Slide your third-hand down the rope away from the rappel device to ensure that only the rappel device is taking the weight. The rope between the rappel device and the third-hand should have some slack. Please work with your instructors to make sure you understand this concept.
Your personal protection leash should be slack. Only after verifying your weight is on the rappel system, you may remove your personal protection leash. Ensure you keep your hand on the brake strands at all times! Also, do not cover the autoblock hitch with your hand. Place your brake hand above the hitch. If you cover the hitch, your hand may prevent the hitch from fully activating and catching the rope.
Weight the rappel system wtih an Autoblock.mp4Credit: Toby Contreras & Christine Troy
Extended Rappel: Weighting the system with an Autoblock
Make sure your rappel device/extension is weighted and not your Autoblock when performing your BARK check. And as always, never let go of the brake strand.
Various examples of how to setup a rappel extension
Mazamas Rappeling Safety Check: B-A-R-K
BARK is an acronym that is used for a rappelling safety check. It's one of the most important steps for rappelling.
B - Belt & Buckles
Make sure your harness is secure by checking that your belt loop is snug and all buckles are double-backed and tight.
A - Anchor
Your climb leader or assistant will build an anchor and attach the rope. However, you must verify all carabiners are locked and the rope is threaded correctly and securely attached to the anchor. Additionally, your personal protection leash should be considered a part of the anchor check. Ensure your leash is properly girth hitched to your harness and the carabiner is locked to the anchor.
R - Rappel Devices
Are both strands of the rope properly threaded through the rappel device? Is the carabiner locked? Is your third-hand properly attached and locked? Is your third-hand spaced enough from the rappel device to ensure the rappel device takes your weight?
K - Knots
Stopper knots (double or triple barrel knots) at the end of both strands of the rope. Climb leaders or assistants will typically tie these knots, but be prepared to tie the knots if requested. This is to prevent rappelling off the end of the rope in the rare chance it's too short to reach the ground. Verify if the knots are in the rope by visually inspecting (if safe to do so), ask the climb leader or assistant if they tied them, or ask someone on the ground to visually verify.
Verbal Communication - Rappelling
Verbal Communication during rappeling is kept to a minimum. This is to ensure that both the rappeller and those below do not confuse the necessary commands with other possible situations. Before rappelling, it is important to communicate with others below.
"On Rappel"
Once the climber has connected to the system and is ready to rappel they signal by shouting to warn others below that they are starting their rappel.
"Off Rappel"
Once the climber has completely disconnected from the system and is about move to a safe waiting area, yell up to let other team members know your rappel is complete and the next person is cleared to start their rappel.
“Gotcha”
In the event that a firefighter’s belay is being used and a belayer pulls downward on the strands they will signal to the person rappelling.
Tips
Try to sit at a 90 degree angle.
Use your slightly bent legs to press your body away from the wall.
Always use a stopper knot.
Use as little and as simple communication as possible.
Always double check your systems (BARK!).
Once the system is weighted, never take your brake hand off the rope! One hand on the brake strand is acceptable. The other hand can be free to balance on the rock if needed.
Final Testing Criteria: Rappel
The final test will be scored based on the bolded items in order to obtain passing score:
Clip to anchor with Personal Pro and lock carabiner
Set up a tubular belay/rappel device for rappel and lock carabiner
Attaches a third-hand autoblock to the rappel rope
Performs B.A.R.K check (Buckles, Anchor, Rappel Device, Knots)
Weight the system to check proper setup of device while there is slack on Personal Pro
Unclip Personal Pro while maintaining brake hand on rope in brake position
Keep a non-brake hand below the rappel device (do not grab rope above the device)
Rappel under control with good position
Knowledge Check
Please complete the required knowledge check before moving on:
Suggested Reading:
Chapter 11, Rappelling: Rappel Technique
Chapter 11, Rappelling: Fireman's Belay
Chapter 11, Rappelling,
"The Rappel System", p. 202-204
"Rappel Method" p. 211-214
"Rappel Technique" p.215-218
"Safety Backups" p.218-219
"Finishing the Rappel" 220-221
Chapter 12, Alpine Rock Climbing, Other Climbing Techniques, Exiting onto Ledges, Fig. 12-40, p.249
Chapter 19, Alpine Ice Climbing, Rappelling on Ice, p. 447
Chapter 20, Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing, Mixed Climbing, Crampons, p. 457-458