Avalanche Safety
A basic understanding of weather and avalanche basics can help you better recognize and avoid potential avalanche terrain. Further avalanche education beyond BCEP is needed to safely navigate through avalanche terrain and affect a rescue if required.
Lesson Objectives
After reading this page students should be able to:
Explain how weather, terrain, and snow-pack influence avalanche conditions
Know the five levels of the North American Avalanche Danger Scale
Be able to read and understand the Avalanche Summaries on the Northwest Avalanche Center webpage
Be able to recognize avalanche red flags
Know strategies for surviving an avalanche
Note: This course is not a replacement for an Avalanche 1 course from American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AAIRE) or equivalent.
Avalanche Awareness
An avalanche is an unstable mass of snow that when triggered can descend down a mountainside with devastating speed and force. About 90% of all avalanches begin on slopes of 30-45 degrees. In dry alpine snow, slopes under 30 degrees can avalanche when very unstable conditions exist. While skiers and snowboarders make up the majority of those who trigger avalanches, climbers also have the capacity to trigger avalanches on unstable slopes. When traveling in avalanche terrain, always travel with a partner or team and bring an avalanche transceiver, shovel, and probe. Training and practice are required to be able to use avalanche safety gear effectively.
1. Avalanche Awareness: Introduction
2. Avalanche Awareness: Snowpack
Evaluating Avalanches hazards means that you are considering Avalanche risks before you leave home. Avalanches strike most often on slopes above timberline that face away from prevailing winds (leeward slopes tend to collect snow blowing from the windward sides of ridges. The most common avalanches that Climbers come across are Slab and Loose-Snow avalanches. Slab Avalanches are known for strong-over-weak layers in the snowpack.
Avalanches occur with the presence of these three conditions:
Unstable Snowpack
Poorly bonded snow that rests on unstable layers
Steep Terrain
Avalanches are possible on any slope steeper than 30 degrees and occur most frequently on slopes 35 to 45 degrees
A Trigger
A disturbance (stress) that initiates fracture within the weak layer causing an avalanche
3. Avalanche Awareness: Weather
Snowstorms deposit new layers of snow with each storm. Learning about the terrain and weather prior to leaving for a climb can prepare climbers with an understanding how wind, sun, and precipitation affect climbing.
4. Avalanche Awareness: Terrain
The terrain that a climber crosses is the first step of evaluating avalanche hazards. Therefore, when planning a climbing route through consider the steepness of a slope, the slope aspect (sun/wind exposure), and the slopes features. During the Mt Tabor Navigation Session you will have a chance to practice measuring a slope angle based on a topographic map. This skill is a key to determining which 30-45 routes that have a lower probability for unstable snow.
5. Avalanche Awareness: Human Factors
Know Before You Go
The North American Public Avalanche Danger Scale is a system used in the United States that rates the avalanche danger based on the likelihood, size, and distribution of avalanches. It consists of five levels, from least to highest amount of danger: low, moderate, considerable, high, and extreme.
Find out more about your current avalanche conditions through Northwest Avalanche Center aka NWAC.
Learn more about navigating and negotiating Avalanche Terrain with Avalanche.org
A list of Avalanche Awareness, Avalanche 1, and Avalanche 2 (AAIRE 1 & 2) classes can be found here.
Route Finding Exercise
Try out this exercise to see if you can safely navigate your team through Avalanche terrain.
Knowledge Check
Please complete the required knowledge check before moving on:
Chapter 16, Snow Travel and Climbing, Routefinding on Snow, p. 360-364
Chapter 17, "Check Weather and Avalanche Forecasts", p. 373
Chapter 17, Avalanche, "Terrain"
Chapter 17, "Consider Human Factors", p.378
Chapter 17, Avalanche Safety, "Tips for selecting a safe route"
Chapter 17, Avalanche Safety
Ch. 17, "Evaluating Avalanche Hazards", p. 367-372
Chapter 27, The Cycle of Snow, "The Formation of Snow Avalanches"
Chapter 27, The Cycle of Snow, "The Formation of Snow Avalanches"